Amazingly, only a few hours after suggesting the MAP sensor on this thread, I got the same symptoms, took my own medicine, filthy sensor, Cleaned it and all good now. In fact, better than good. See,s to have loads more power, maybe going downhill for a while.____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey
4th Aug 2013 10:21 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
When i strip it back down, i'll do a how to on it.
Unless Mikey beats me to it.
4th Aug 2013 10:41 pm
remould
Member Since: 11 Aug 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 4
Thank you ,I have just had to do the same on my 2008 model ,It took me a while working the actuator to free it off but it was the same procedure as this excellent post here
My local garage read the code for me so I gave them feed back on the repair procedure so hopefully it will help someone else
Thanks again
A.J.M wrote:
FIXED!!!
Checked the map sensor and it was clean, so no problem there.
So, Time to get to that actuator from above.
Disconnect battery and remove it from the bay.
Split the red side as i had to move them apart to get other stuff free.
3 13mm nuts to be removed.
Disconnect the air con pipe bracket with a 8mm nut.
Remove the black philips screw.
Twist the white connector block and remove.
The battery tray has 3 seperate parts that remove.
1 pulls up, 1 pulls from under the scuttle area and the other is large and held in with 4 clips.
Remove the heat shield, this just pulls up and slide forwards to the front of the engine.
This lets you get access to the actuator rod.
Mine was very VERY stiff, so pushed down first with a round file and hooked the wire round to pull back up, the range of movement is about an inch or so.
Repeat this and spray WD40 or similar every time you move it.
Repeat till moving freely.
Thank the LR gods for showing mercy to you.
Reassemble the stuff and start car.
Thank the LR gods again for it not showing up any warning bongs etc.
Take drive and enjoy having a working actuator.
Final step will be to strip it all down to check up and continue the spray and push/pull to make sure.
Massive thanks to Disco Mikey for the advice over the phone and to other's for having a guide so i could see what i was trying to free up.
Hopefully i've sorted it properly as with my job security very uncertain i can't have a bill of a new turbo hanging over me.
19th Aug 2013 12:48 pm
Landie71
Member Since: 23 Oct 2012
Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1019
Thanks A.J.M - followed your walk though this morning & to me it was much easier than going through the wheel arch
Hoping although the actuator rod wasn't that stiff over most of it's movement (only the last few mm towards the wheel, not the engine) it'll stop the P0234 & P0299 turbo errors & the clouds of black smoke when I put the tintent on the back - I'll find out tomorrow evening on the way to Peterborough I hope!!
Thanks again
Marcus
5th Sep 2013 3:10 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
I went in from the battery tray, found it and got it moving freely. However, just about to stop wiggling it and the distance the top of the rob (ball shaped) moved seems less than the maximum i was getting!
Have I done something wrong?2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
18th Jan 2014 12:39 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Put the battery back for temporary check that all was still going to be ok, and it was. Having dosed the linkage with WD40 and with battery connected, I could now cycle through ignition on and off several toimes to let the computer do the wiggling on the rod (it does it after ignition turned off.
That was easier than me doing it, so next time I think I will go in through the wheel arch. Then, after applying lubrication I can get the computer to do the wiggle.
I will upload a picture of the top of the linkage that you are searching for.
Been for test drive and power take up nice a smooth.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
18th Jan 2014 1:22 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Here is the picture. The top of the actuator is the bright round ball to the right of and behind the very bright bolt head.
Click image to enlarge
2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
18th Jan 2014 1:34 pm
Gianni330
Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: Latina
Posts: 102
Hi, The battery of my Disco3 is in the right side, at the left there is the ABS system and no air intake, maybe mine is an old one and now they moved the battery to the left, or the turbine
My Disco3 '05 has the turbine at the left side of the engine and it's not easy to get to it without working a lot with tools and patience!
Am I doing right?
Thanks
Gianni
18th Jan 2014 2:59 pm
tantoxgioco
Member Since: 21 May 2014
Location: trieste
Posts: 3
ciao Gianni
che sintomi avevi sulla macchina , alla fine hai risolto ?
ciao grazie
Had a visit from the excellent Disco-Mikey yesterday who ran his expert eyes over my Disco (which after a prolonged period off the road seems to have developed a few more D3 "traits" (ok, even more "faults" lol))
Thankfully the diagnosis wasn't a total "skip-it" scenario so there's hope yet!
Most obvious problem is lack of power and warning on dash attributable D-M reckons (ever optimistically) to stuck turbo actuator.
Sooooooooooo, once again prepping by reading the great guides and information on here, I decided to opt for the "above" route, (figured chances of me "guddling" around through wheel arch and finding actuator slim enough without beast falling off jack etc )and removed battery and its tray etc etc.
Went surprisingly well, took my time, didn't lose or break anything, cleaning and wiping recalcitrant nuts with a WD40'd rag etc...........
However...........
I just couldn't figure out where the damned actuator was, despite looking at pics and poking and prodding everything in that area...........
So, once again seeking, help, guidance, more pics, mockery etc can anyone please advise?
Fortunately teenage daughters hockey was cancelled so didn't have to put everything back together un-wriggled-freed to go collect her so will attempt again tomorrow.
I have looked at the pics and video posted but suspect I'm now not seeing the wood for the trees!
Siiiighhh! lol!
Thanks again for the great posts, my evenings now seem to be full of linking tips and advice to the issues I have, and thinking how nice a garage might be to work in........lol!
Cheers,
Ken
4th Dec 2014 8:11 pm
WINDSWEPTISLANDER
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Way up north
Posts: 523
I found mine easier to find through the wheel arch, depending on it's position it could be quite far back.
If you remove the bits of wheel arch trim as described elsewhere ( I found this to be the best working access) point a torch in and get somebody to flick the key back and forth it should be the bit that moves.
5th Dec 2014 9:11 am
jonnybgud
Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 397
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2005 D3 Zambezi Silver
