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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
  
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Took my time, read all the posts and concluded on the Optima Yellow Top and Traxide with FPC for my power requirements. Both have been happily living in the shed for a couple of months now, till I decided today it was about time to run the FPC part of the Traxide, as this looked to be the more time consuming part...
I've read the whole thing to be doable in a couple of hours or so, so budgeted accordingly. But in writing this, three hours later, the car is back to how it was 
I can't despite my best efforts, seem to get the cable to sit in the channel properly, no matter how I orient it. What's more, it seems my D3 is slightly different to the one on the instructions as under the two earthed cables refer to on page 8 sit on an additional piece of plastic which makes it very hard and bulky to thread through, to the point of the kick panel not fitting back on. 
Lastly, I have bruises to confirm I could not find a way of threading the cable to the boot (jack compartment) without removing the rear plastic panel from the rear door opening to the jack compartment (over the wheelarch - pages 9-10)
Can anyone who has done the mod give me any tips on the above please? I am generally quite happy to experiment, but one of the requirements I have is to not modify (cut) any parts of the car.... (ok, other than the grommet in the engine bay, but I've solved that one differently!)
Needless to say, SWMBO not talking to me now... 
Thanks!
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 19th Mar 2010 5:37 pm |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Cheers Andy 
Problem is, I have the FPC kit that came with the Traxide and the cable is much thicker than what you used (it's paired in the shielding).
How did you run the cables in the rear though? It seems you continue back from the rear passenger door into the boot area behind the panel but how did you fish it out the other end?
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| 19th Mar 2010 5:49 pm |
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methley
a.k.a. Big Hairy Ski Monster
Member Since: 07 Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, South Glos
Posts: 2433
 
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I found that by just feeding it through, after several attempts, I could fish the other end by feeling around through the removable panel where the jack is kept. It just pulls through after that. Andy
Fridge Slide for sale https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2064622.html#2064622
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| 19th Mar 2010 5:54 pm |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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methley wrote:...after several attempts...
Well, that explains it, I only tried about 4-5 times and it always got stuck just out of reach 
I eventually gave up due to the other reason... 
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| 19th Mar 2010 6:01 pm |
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methley
a.k.a. Big Hairy Ski Monster
Member Since: 07 Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, South Glos
Posts: 2433
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Remember you may have PTI and TMC modules behind there, so will need to negotiate your way past those. I don't have that "problem" as my PTI is retro-fitted behind the dash Andy
Fridge Slide for sale https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2064622.html#2064622
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| 19th Mar 2010 6:03 pm |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Yes, in my case it was the TMC module!
Will have another go over the weekend, need to try to rectify things at home now
Thanks Andy
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| 19th Mar 2010 6:52 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi Niko, you may have a later version of the D3 and the channel is different.
The D4 channel is like the later versions of the D3 so I will send you a PDF of the D4 instructions. Send me your E-mail address and I foreword it tonight.
As to the cable running up over the wheel arch, unless there is a difference in the later D3 models, the D4 is exactly the same as the older D3s and you do not have to take the rear panel out, the cable simply tucks up under the bottom edge of the rear panel and you can then bring the rest of the cable out through the Jack Compartment.
As to the cable going into the Auxiliary Battery Compartment, the hole in the firewall is JUST big enough to feed the 6B&S twin cable through, when it’s still got the outer plastic sheath on.
If your having trouble, strip about 40cm of the sheath off and the cables will fit through easier.
Another suggest, ( because it seems to be a bit difficult for a few people ) push some string through the hole from the cab side and then get a wire coat hanger and bend it in to a hook then fish the string up and tie it off so it can’t be pulled back through the hole.
Next, loop and tie the other end of the string around the cables and then wrap some electrical tape over the string and cable and feed the end of the cable into the hole from the cab side. Then go to the battery compartment and gently pull the cable through into the battery compartment. It may help you if you get someone to feed the cable into the hole as you pull on it.
If you have any more problems, post them up here or PM me and I get back to you. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 20th Mar 2010 7:49 am |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Thanks Tim
Going through the bulkhead was not a problem at all, straight through 
PMed you my email for those D4 instructions, if I can sort out the driver's kickpanel issue I've come up with a jig to thread through the rear panel to the jack compartment 
Though it would be helpful to see where in the rear wheelarch channel to feed it through to the boot area... (at which height)
Cheers
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| 20th Mar 2010 8:00 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Biz wrote:Though it would be helpful to see where in the rear wheelarch channel to feed it through to the boot area... (at which height)
There’s some pictures in the D4 instructions that should help.
Cheers. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 20th Mar 2010 9:24 am |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Many thanks Tim, the original instructions were very good, these are even better
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| 20th Mar 2010 11:14 am |
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