Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
I don't think you will be able to see any carbon build up.
It's all inside.
Nightmare changing the turbo.
Front prop off.
Exhaust off.
And even then difficult.
14th Apr 2018 6:44 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
ah , being honest , i wasn’t sure how much i would be able to see once that small turbo hose was removed
alas looks an absolute to replace the turbo , but will just take it step by step as i check everything else and hopefully won’t have to cross that bridge , will have everything crossed for luck
was wondering though when i take that small turbo hose off if it’s worth spraying some turbo cleaner directly inside , leaving it for a while and then using the air compressor to blast some air through it, or would i be asking for trouble doing that plse
or better to just put some forbes turbo cleaner into the tank and let it run through the turbo like that
thks again
14th Apr 2018 8:33 pm
Redline
Member Since: 20 Jan 2018
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 141
Had a similar but maybe not an identical problem on an Audi a few years ago.
The way it was explained was the vanes would open as commanded,but, when the vacuum actuator closed, the vanes stuck, boost continued and then dumped the overboost through the waste-gate, the electronics didn’t like it and backed off on controlling the vanes resulting in a complete loss of power. I don’t think the electronics were as advanced and didn’t shut anything down. After a 5-10 seconds the vanes closed themselves and back to normal. Only happened on aggressive acceleration or calls for lots of power, but made changing up a lottery.
Ended up with a new turbo.Current : Discovery 4 HSE (2012 spec)
Current : BMW Z4 20i MSport
Current : BWM Z4 3.0SI Sport Auto
Previous : Freelander 2 HSE
14th Apr 2018 8:57 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
you need to know that the silicon hoses are on the inlet chamber.
where as the vvt is in the exhuast chamber AFAIK.
And to get into the exhaust chamber requires turbo removal.
So in the fuel tank is the only option
14th Apr 2018 9:46 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Redline wrote:
Had a similar but maybe not an identical problem on an Audi a few years ago.
The way it was explained was the vanes would open as commanded,but, when the vacuum actuator closed, the vanes stuck, boost continued and then dumped the overboost through the waste-gate, the electronics didn’t like it and backed off on controlling the vanes resulting in a complete loss of power. I don’t think the electronics were as advanced and didn’t shut anything down. After a 5-10 seconds the vanes closed themselves and back to normal. Only happened on aggressive acceleration or calls for lots of power, but made changing up a lottery.
Ended up with a new turbo.
many thks
fingers crossed the weather will continue to get warmer and can then start on it again
14th Apr 2018 11:11 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Pete K wrote:
you need to know that the silicon hoses are on the inlet chamber.
where as the vvt is in the exhuast chamber AFAIK.
And to get into the exhaust chamber requires turbo removal.
So in the fuel tank is the only option
ah, there was me thinking it would be easy ,
as it won’t hurt , will run a few bottles of the turbo cleaner through it prior to starting work on it
14th Apr 2018 11:15 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
I’m reading this thread with interest... within the next few weeks I’m taking the body off my lemon. I’ve got so many things to do... last going off before I started to strip the brick down I was having an air rushing noise under load. No smoke and no eml light but a lack of power. Initially I thought it was a split intercooler, not so. Maybe a split hose ? . Nope. I diagnosed a split crossover pipe. Followed a how to on here for removal with body on. Turns out some idiot has done quite a lot of bodge work to my car in the past. Bizarrre of a car with 83000 miles and full history you say. Until after the warranty ran out and I looked into the history with the main dealer to find out it’s fake. The mileage is real though according to my iid. No amount of special tools or skills allowed me to get the pipe off. Body off is the only option. Searched Ebay and found a ramp. Collected and sat in the workshop all winter. Finally time to put it up and get the body off. If you search my threads you’ll see what I’ve gone through. I’ve used an inspection camera and now believe the cross over pipe is fine. It’s getting replaced with an upgrade anyway. I believe the turbo is very noisy. I intend to remove it and have it tested. One of the hundreds of jobs I have to address. It would probably be more economical to scrap the car but I just can’t. There’s a lot of sentimental value involved. I’ve rebuilt turbo’s in the past with cartridges etc and find them very economical if you know what your doing. Pardon me if I’m rambling. First time I’ve had a few beers this year after a major family tragedy. Mods feel free to remove this of its completely irrelevant.
Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
15th Apr 2018 12:04 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8069
gstuart wrote:
hi pete
thks as that makes a lot of sense , reason i say that because , as i was coming back over the QE2. bridge i was doing around 50 mph , i could hear the gearbox was just about to drop a gear
i lifted off the acc pedal and then gently back on again to prevent the gearbox dropping a gear and raising the revs which in turn i was worried of it going into limp mode
done a 100 x mile round trip today and didn’t throw up the limp mode fault once by just lifting off and back on again
..........................
Although that is a "get you home" method of of driving it is doing nothing to help cure the problem, probably making it worse, IMHO the only way to possibly cure it without a new turbo is the wire coat hanger to free it off, plenty of good graphite based penetrating oil and then driving exactly opposite to what you've discribed, force the actuator to operate, get the engine hot, find a safe stretch of road in case you loose power with a long hill and use command/sports mode in a lower gear to get the revs up. If you have a door or window sticking it will only get worse and never get better if you don't oil and use it, same with the actuator.
If after doing that several times it still does it it's new turbo time It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
15th Apr 2018 10:44 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
hi
indeed ur spot on and was a way of getting back and off that dreaded M25 , along with it being my aunts funeral was a crap day , but can’t allow it to continue into limp mode and resolve it once and for all
whilst safely parked on the driveway i will start replacing the front passenger side strut as planned, already done the drivers side , then progress onto this turbo issue
got all new hoses etc and also bought some ceramic grease , then if need be onto a new turbo if req if it still misbehaves as i certainally can’t go through such a dangerous condition whilst sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for that dreaded limp mode
been looking at some exchange units but think i’m just getting ahead of myself , will do the planned work first and then go from there
always appreciate the great help and within a few days learnt a lot
thks again
15th Apr 2018 1:58 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8069
If you've bought the grease for the actuator don't use it untill you've freed it off as it will not penetrate and will stop penetrating oil from .......penetrating! - you need penetrating oil containing graphite, not even WD40, you can use that along with grease last, the actuator needs to be as free as a feather. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
15th Apr 2018 2:21 pm
Brucey
Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 137
What’s this turbo software that moves the actuator on every start up? Something custom from GAP?
15th Apr 2018 8:12 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
It was only the very early model 2004 ? that didn't do this from the factory
15th Apr 2018 8:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
M3DPO wrote:
If you've bought the grease for the actuator don't use it untill you've freed it off as it will not penetrate and will stop penetrating oil from .......penetrating! - you need penetrating oil containing graphite, not even WD40, you can use that along with grease last, the actuator needs to be as free as a feather.
thks, makes sense , ordered some small wire brushes to clean it all up first and was going to use some plus gas i’ve got
however , have also just looked online and found the graphite penetrating spray
see its in spray or oil form is there any advantage of either please , 1st one looks the best but would rather ask first , thks again
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to replace the turbo , but will just take it step by step as i check everything else and hopefully won’t have to cross that bridge , will have everything crossed for luck 
