Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13604
Happy days and well pleased for u that the battery is ok
Will be interesting to see what happens when u fit the new switch
Fingers crossed u have no more problems
Have a good one and plus 1 that u stay safe and well and always a pleasure to help in very small part of a group effort
Gary
24th Apr 2020 11:02 am
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Hi, glad you solved the problem.
The bonnet switch is just that.... a simple switch, the contacts open when the switch is not made ie bonnet open & close when you shut the bonnet, that's why sorting it out with a wire link fools the car into thinking the bonnet is shut.
It's not the switch itself causing the battery drain, it's the fact that the switch feeds back into the ECU and so if the ECU thinks the bonnet is open it does different things... which you don't know unless you could see the logic circuit software that's embedded in the ECU (which you can't) For example the ECU could switch on an underbonnet light if there was one... but most likely it's to do with the ECU itself, so if it sees the bonnet's open, then for a start it sets off the alarm, and probably "wakes up" the other body ECU's etc.
Repeated operation of the switch due to a bad contact could probably cause the different ECU's to not enter their sleep modes, which would then flatten the battery over a short time.
So, in summary the switch is just a dumb contact, it's what the ECU's do when they see the changing state of this contact that can cause the problem.
Hope this helps ?
Mat2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
24th Apr 2020 11:02 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13604
Hi matt
Did find some wiring diagrams in the end
Was also wondering about that , so found the wiring diagrams out of curiosity in what interconnects with the alarm system
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Last edited by gstuart on 24th Apr 2020 11:40 am. Edited 1 time in total
24th Apr 2020 11:07 am
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Yes, the thing is, the wiring diagrams only show the actual physical connections of the various bits & pieces. You can see that in the first picture, the signal "bonnet ajar" ie the bonnect switch feeds into the alarm ECU, what you can't see is what the software does when it sees that signal change..
For that we'd need the state machine diagrams and software descriptions, and that's pretty much LR's intellectual property.
Back in the days before ECU's everything you needed was in the wiring diagram, now however it's effectively like you need the internal "wiring diagram" of the ECU... which of course isn't wiring at all , its software and programmable arrays....unfortunately it's just shown as a black box.
Technology eh.. who needs it 2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
24th Apr 2020 11:39 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13604
Indeed, have seen some software that I think shows the internals but is through expensive software that garages have
also there’s the suspension software that wakes up I think it’s every 6 x hours
See the OP reported of the alarm going off every 30 x minutes
Fingers crossed as the temporary link has stopped the alarm going off all the time it will resolve the issue
24th Apr 2020 11:47 am
Miniu
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Bedford
Posts: 11
Hello all. Due to batter drain i'm looking for info about tracker location. If you know where to find the crappy device or you know someone who have the knowledge please pass the message. I'm not a car thief bcouse if i was i knew where it is already. I'm desperate because i have fitted new battery 3 weeks ago and i already had to charge it. New alternator 3 months ago. Please PM. Cheers.
28th Oct 2020 7:21 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Have you looked in the rear sides ?
For any non standard wiring ?
28th Oct 2020 7:40 pm
Miniu
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Bedford
Posts: 11
I have checked both sides. Nothing suspicious.
28th Oct 2020 8:31 pm
Miniu
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Bedford
Posts: 11
I know that there is many people on this forum who knows exactly where it is but..
I can understand that this kind of knowledge may be used in inappropriate way but in my opinion car thiefts already know very well how to deal with this kind of devices.
28th Oct 2020 8:35 pm
Trucks
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: south newton
Posts: 375
hi
as you can see with all the above question i had the same problem with battery drain and found it was the bonnet catch.
since then i have found another reason that has caused similar issues which may have been going on for sometime without my knowledge or even thinking about it.
i will explain,
I have had the car just coming up to a year and i just found that the passenger front door did not lock properly and the lock spent its time trying to lock itself for as long as i left the car either at home or wherever i parked up.
I press the lock button as you do and walk away assuming the cars locked,if anything is left open you will get the horn beep once.
well i just found out that the door was not locking by sheer accident as i am usually travelling alone and only use the passenger front door when opening the bonnet,well this time i had my granddaughter with me so she ran ahead and opened the passenger door without me unlocking the car,when i reached the car i checked all the other doors and tailgate and all was locked.
so obviously i investigated the problem and after much searching on the forum i found my answer,it was a faulty door lock mechanism which has now been replaced two days ago.
the point i am making is when i got all the door panel off (i left the battery connected as i have no airbags in the door on my 04 D3, that's when i heard the catch trying to lock the car,a faint clicking sound every now and then so obviously using power from the battery
if the car is not used over a couple of days or more and the cold weather this time of year it will soon drain the battery.
so may i suggest to all that you check your doors are actually locked when you leave your car and don't rely on the beep from the horn as a reminder because the door could be shut properly but not locked.
just to add as mentioned on the forum, after several clicks of five or more on the key the door would eventually lock and the same amount of clicks on the key to open.
the door lock/open actuator was faulty and the cable was taking several clicks for it to move the correct length to open or close.
as other will mention, there is a plethora of things that it could be and they will give you their best to help you as they did for me its a great assembly of knowledge and they all deserve beer or ten from us users .
thank you
28th Oct 2020 8:39 pm
Miniu
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Bedford
Posts: 11
As a matter of fact i have problem with front passenger door lock actuator. I will try to lock it manually from inside and than lock it again with remote. Thanks for pointing me in new direction. Anyway the location of tracker device will be very helpful if door lock will not be the reason. Thanks again. Cheers.
28th Oct 2020 9:09 pm
Trucks
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: south newton
Posts: 375
Hi
I am back again with a slow battery drain I have included some pictures of three different test metres at various different times but all within an hour.
The first picture shows how I made the connection to the battery which I believe is correct and a reading of .054 amps being discharge,then 0.55 amps being discharge and then 0.44.
Am I right in believing this relates to 540 milli amps,550MA,and 440MA.
I do realise this is to high and need a reading of 0 would be great but realistic this will not happen but a reading of 100ma or lower would be preferable.
I know the metres in use are not the best but its what one can afford,the orange metre is todays latest one I purchased as I wanted to see if there was a great difference between registering the battery drain
I then switched test metres and wow I get a reading of 5.321amp that not a drain that's a flood it then very very slowly dropped to 507ma then I had to pop out for 30 minutes and it had dropped to 023ma which would be great if correct.
Would you agree the surge in the discharge was caused by the changing of the metres as in theory it would be like reconnecting the battery and the slow reduction in discharge was the ecu's ect shutting down.
I disconnected both connectors on the leisure battery so as to ensure there would be no interference from it.
I also put the suspension in access mode so as the suspension would not operate itself as I am sure it does every now and then and I found the discharge was fare less with the suspension in access mode than in normal road setting.
What I am asking for is help in understanding the metre readings,what would be an acceptable discharge rate,and would the suspension in its access mode made the difference that I have described.pete truckle
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