Member Since: 01 May 2020
Location: CHELTENHAM
Posts: 124
Body rust rear body mounts
Hi All
Have just had some welding done on my rear sills, only back sections, rest brand new and inner sills just surface so was happy. Until I start putting it all back together and spot rust around body mounts. Just surface I thought until I put my screwdriver straight through to leave big hole!!
Anyone had this? MOT in October and can’t see my tester missing it!
Anyone done or had a repair with body on? Body off cost would not be justifiable on a 17 year car.
Any advice would greatly appreciated.
Thanks and stay cool.
13th Aug 2022 2:48 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
To be repaired properly, that is going to be a body off...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
Agree with the body off to repair - it's not a massive job to take the body off though, we used to 'split' them in around an hour, that was in-warranty vehicles though so not so many chances of seized bolts etc.
Of course, the repair will need to be done with the body on the two-poster and somewhere to store the rolling chassis.
13th Aug 2022 8:15 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
You can lift about 2 inches before anything major needs disconnecting. Does that make things any easier/could the work be done?
13th Aug 2022 8:32 pm
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
I would be looking for a replacement vehicle, beyond economical repair in my opinion. Why not do a thorough inspection before patching sills?Chris
13th Aug 2022 9:58 pm
desv8
Member Since: 01 May 2020
Location: CHELTENHAM
Posts: 124
Thanks all, yes a few decisions to make.
The line needs to be drawn, sills were an advisory last year, once I removed the steps I had no choice with the hole left. Didn’t notice the mounts until I was tidying it all up yesterday.
Although there will be garages that can take the body off in a pair of hours I’m sure there’re not many out there that will only charge you a couple of hours!
14th Aug 2022 7:55 am
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
You'll never win unfortunately. I did body off, preventative job on mine a few years ago as I was fed up of losing mechanically sound vehicles to rot, it truly is immaculate... But as of last week, my engine has blown and I'm so deep at this point, a new engine is pretty much the only option.
If you'd caught the mounts before the sills were done, I'd say a body swap wouldn't have been a bad way to go. Perhaps still an option.
14th Aug 2022 8:24 am
DIY Ace
Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 879
Even if it is a body off job, surely that is more economical sense than scrapping and replacing the vehicle?
If the car isn't roadworthy, and it doesn't look like it, you won't be able to sell it anyway unless for parts.
I've spent far more than expected over the past few years keeping my 2005 D3 on the road, but replacing it for another vehicle with more unknown issues didn't make sense to me.
If it is in otherwise good working order, I'd spend the cash and enjoy the car for another year...2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)
Member Since: 01 May 2020
Location: CHELTENHAM
Posts: 124
Thanks for all the sensible comments everyone.
If this was a diesel the decision would be easier, just buy another and use this one for spares.
Being a petrol they are not as common and ones out there are either worse than mine or ridiculous money.
To date I’ve spent out on service items and air con compressor, all of which I have done so costs were sensible.
I think I will get some quotes before making a decision. The cost of replacement which I would do for a sensible mileage D4, but then my budget would only stretch to 2012 sensible mileage or 14 with higher mileage, then what? Worst case wait for the crank to break and then a few more 000’s?
I know this car and trust this car, it uses no oil or coolant and only warning light I’ve ever had on the dash is brake pad warning, which in 3 years I think is not bad going. We all know that it takes time to get to know these vehicles.
Thanks again all for comments
14th Aug 2022 10:09 am
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
Is a V8? That's changes everything. Get it welded.
14th Aug 2022 10:27 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 879
Agreed. If its a V8 and you've got the cash, keep it going!2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)
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