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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2688
  
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| Cable Route to Roof Spots |
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After a couple of months of inactivity on the project Mrs Nasher reminded me it’s not long until we’ll need the roof basket on the D3 for our annual camping and boating trip to Devon.
I’ve made some more progress on the mounts, the six on the raised part of the roof are completed, and the two for the lower part are designed.
The next step is the wiring for the 4x100W spots on the front of the basket.
I’m happy making up my own 40W loom, adding a switch in the cabin etc, but could do with some advise on the cable routing to the roof.
Bearing in mind the basket is for occasional use, so will be on and off the car half a dozen times a year, what I’ve done on previous vehicles is to have the relays etc permanently installed in the engine bay, with a 2-pin power connector that the cable from the basket can be plugged in to when required. All the vehicles I’ve used it on have had a void behind the windscreen trim to run the cable down to the engine bay.
My initial plan was to pull the nearside A-pillar outer cover off each time and run the cable up behind it, which is a really easy solution. However on a previous thread when I mentioned doing it this way I was warned about others who’d had water ingress issues into the cabin when doing it this way.
The other route is to run the power cable all the way through the car and out behind one of the rear lights to a waterproof connector.
In this case to use the basket I’d have to run a cable down around the tailgate, remove a rear light and plug in. this is not only more work each time but increases the cable length dramatically, and I ,don’t fancy running the cable through the car unless I have to.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Or comments on the A-Pillar trim and rear light methods?
Thanks
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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 19th Jul 2010 1:56 pm |
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MrH
Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754
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I have the solution whereby it goes through the car and have a waterproof connector behind the rear light - works fine, and is easy to hide 
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| 19th Jul 2010 2:10 pm |
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JF Lux
Member Since: 08 Sep 2007
Location: A little country in Europe
Posts: 3522
  
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Similar to MrH. I have 4 LF170's on a rack which does not stay on all of the time. I have run the cables inside the car to the left and right rear compartments/cubby holes. From there, they go through existing holes behind the rear lights, coming up out of the light cluster and then stopping where the tailget strut is located. Connectors are attached so it all plugs together when the rack goes on.
I believe there is a risk of water ingress if you run cables via the A-pillars - but could be wrong on that point ? The next American ex-pat that calls it a "truck" is going to find out what 2.7 tons feels like on their foot...
Club "yes, I too have had the EGR's replaced..."
Club "yes, I too have had the compressor replaced..."
Club "yes, I too once had the car at the dealer for a couple of weeks nearly 4 weeks over 4 weeks...5 weeks"
Club "yes, I too have had EPB failure..."
Club "yes, I too get mysterious bings and bongs..."
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| 19th Jul 2010 4:39 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2688
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Thanks Guys, looks like I'll need to go down that route then.
I'm really surprised that the A-Pillar trim leaks with the cable behind it, it's not as if I'm running the cable into the car at that point, just down behind the trim and out the bottom into the engine bay.
I've pulled the trm off once already to have a look, so does that mean I'm already in trouble?
What connectors are you using for the other route?
I'd like to go with just one 2-pin connector but it will need to be rated at over 35A, and from my boating exploits I know that anything waterproof rated that high will be expensive.
Oh, and how easy is it to run the cable from the engine bay and through the car?
Thanks
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 19th Jul 2010 5:30 pm |
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MrH
Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754
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You could always run 2 supplies, one for outer, one for inner pair or left/right, there by reduce the cable diameter - also go for the professional thin wall insulated type of wire - it's more expensive, but works really well and that way you can use lower rated plugs.
The top lternative though is to contact 10forcash (Site Sponsor), and get him to do it for 
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| 20th Jul 2010 8:48 am |
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blueanchorinn
D3 Decade
Member Since: 07 Mar 2006
Location: In a pub in Devon
Posts: 973
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my cables run up to the roof via the A pillar trim and end in a waterproof connector sourced from Wiring Products Ltd I have had no water problems but I did seal the top of the trim with silicone.Think there is a photo in my gallery if not I will put one in when I get home
No there isnt will do on Sun Pot Noodle Challenge Winner 2011
I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person
Last edited by blueanchorinn on 20th Jul 2010 9:03 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 20th Jul 2010 8:56 am |
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JF Lux
Member Since: 08 Sep 2007
Location: A little country in Europe
Posts: 3522
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Nasher - to answer a couple of questions:
If you are not running the cable through into the vehicle via the A-pillar trim then this might be okay. Like, you I have had the trim off (to fit the RAI) and do not have any issues. But then again, I don't have cables running through it to act as a channel for water.
Connectors - currently have small connectors, one for each light. But will be changing to a set of waterproof connectors. These will take two lights each (ie 4-pin) and will have one connector each side (just need to get round to doing it...  )
Running cable - very easy. Rear lights pull off after undoing a couple of screws. Plenty of space behind the internal rear-side compartments to thread the cables and get your hands in. My right-hand cables run under the 3rd row seats/the little flappy thing on the rear tailgate (very easy to unbolt to hide the cables) and into the left hand rear compartment. Here they are joined to a Blue Marine power distribution board and then a single Traxide power cable goes back to the battery.
However, if you want to run the main cables to the front then you can easily keep them under the platic trim, unclip the plastic kick-boards etc and run them via those channels. (Just be careful when doing this so you don't lose the retaining clips).
Mine is LHD so keeping in mind where the location will be for the switches and grommet into the engine bay (for battery connection) you will want to run everything opposite sides to the above.
And if my description is even more confusing...drop me a PM with a contact number and I can talk it over with you. Also, if you are not in a hurry, I can get some instructions that I have to you (I'm away on business at the moment and won't be able to get to these until the weekend). The next American ex-pat that calls it a "truck" is going to find out what 2.7 tons feels like on their foot...
Club "yes, I too have had the EGR's replaced..."
Club "yes, I too have had the compressor replaced..."
Club "yes, I too once had the car at the dealer for a couple of weeks nearly 4 weeks over 4 weeks...5 weeks"
Club "yes, I too have had EPB failure..."
Club "yes, I too get mysterious bings and bongs..."
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| 20th Jul 2010 8:59 am |
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Chicken Duck
Member Since: 11 Nov 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 1387
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I'll be fitting spots to my roof rack in near future and i'm planning on routing wires down through my RAI
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| 20th Jul 2010 12:30 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2688
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Thanks Guys, I’ve been looking at this some more.
I’m Ok with the cable run through the car now, but am still not sure where I’d take the main power cables through the bulkhead.
I don’t really want to cross the engine bay to the drivers side(I’m Right hand drive)as it will increase the cable run even more.
On the other hand I don’t like the thought of using any grommets behind the battery box because of all the threads I’ve read about water ingress on that side.
For those using the through car route, what size cable have you used?
I have 4 x 100W(@34A total) spots to run and was going to use thinwall 6mm2 conductor, until I used the cable calculator on another thread which said I need 35mm2 cable allowing for a 3% drop. It’s about a 6M run I think.
I’m still really tempted to go from the engine bay up under one of the A-Pillar trims, however I’m also concerned now about water ingress.
I’ve pulled both sides off a couple of times now during my investigations and found a bit of a mess underneath where the windscreen has been changed at some point.
I’ve not broken any of the white clips(yet), but one is missing on the drivers side and only one each side have the little rubber washer still in place. I’m going to get some more clips and washers from my local stealer, and may put a little non-setting sealant around each one before I put them back in.
It is very tempting to go the G4 route and use them to run the cables, but I’ll need to do some more investigating regarding sealing.
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 22nd Jul 2010 8:50 am |
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Stu
Member Since: 08 Feb 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2423
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The A pillar trims are a pretty tight fit and if they are not fitted back with all the clips they have a tendancy to fly off on the M6 at 90mph and make an awful noise. Not that I'd know 
I don't know if you have the the PTI fin, but if not then I think it's quite common to come out of that. It would be worth having a chat to Richard (XTC) at the next Southern area meet. D3 HSE MY05 Auto
Expo Rack, Club MTR, LR Spots, A Bar, Light Guards, GNVP Sump Guard, GNVP Ladder, Cup Holders, RLD A Bar brackets. Disco3Club stickers, Aux power on Mod
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| 22nd Jul 2010 10:10 am |
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Navigator
Member Since: 17 Mar 2010
Location: Stay at Home. One of the lives you save could be your own.
Posts: 5105
 
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Stu wrote:I don't know if you have the the PTI fin, but if not then I think it's quite common to come out of that.
Ah - now, even if one does have the fin, a second dummy one could be fitted as well, perhaps in line with the B-pillar? A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
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| 22nd Jul 2010 10:52 am |
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Stu
Member Since: 08 Feb 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2423
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Wouldn't that mean cutting a hole in the roof?  D3 HSE MY05 Auto
Expo Rack, Club MTR, LR Spots, A Bar, Light Guards, GNVP Sump Guard, GNVP Ladder, Cup Holders, RLD A Bar brackets. Disco3Club stickers, Aux power on Mod
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| 22nd Jul 2010 10:55 am |
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Navigator
Member Since: 17 Mar 2010
Location: Stay at Home. One of the lives you save could be your own.
Posts: 5105
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Of course - holes would be needed. It is easily done using a punch. However, the "dummy" antenna would conceal it when one was selling the vehicle on later. This would allow a proper panel mount watertight connector to be used, so no leaks to the inside! Biggest challenge would be dropping the head-lining. A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
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| 22nd Jul 2010 11:44 am |
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Stu
Member Since: 08 Feb 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2423
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Well I doubt that would work well in my D3 as I think you'd crack the alipne roof! 
You're a braver man than me, no way I'd put a hole in my roof. D3 HSE MY05 Auto
Expo Rack, Club MTR, LR Spots, A Bar, Light Guards, GNVP Sump Guard, GNVP Ladder, Cup Holders, RLD A Bar brackets. Disco3Club stickers, Aux power on Mod
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| 22nd Jul 2010 11:58 am |
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Navigator
Member Since: 17 Mar 2010
Location: Stay at Home. One of the lives you save could be your own.
Posts: 5105
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I've fitted various antenna and such like to roofs in the past with no problems. A small hole is made with a drill bit to accommodate the bolt for the punch and die. Tightening them together cuts a perfect clean hole, just like would be made in a factory. As the size and shape are precise, gaskets and seals work properly.
I'm not sure about fitting antenna bases to the D3 roof though, as I don't know if the metal is strong enough to take the bending stresses. Maybe someone has info on how robust the metal is from fitting something? Meanwhile, I've got antenna bases on a couple of Uncle Ray's mounts on the roof rail. The low level of a power socket or the dummy antenna would not cause any problem though. A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
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| 22nd Jul 2010 2:50 pm |
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