Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6232
  
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| Checking Front heated Screen |
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My front heated screen does not appear to be working, In have checked all the fuses and they are ok, I had the Fuel pump recall done two weeks ago and i think its not worked after that, is there any wires plugs in that region where the brakes master cylinder and servo is.
Which are the relays that control the front screen or does it share a relay with some other system.
which side of the screen are the connections on?
Only just noticed its not working with the low temps of the last few nights.
Fixed it Sticking relay 
Flack 
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 5th Mar 2010 5:04 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| Relay located in engine "fuse" box. |
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You bring up a good question - where are the relays located that are in the heated windscreen circuit?
I have a similar question related to the power windows - where is the power window relay located?
Re the windscreen relay, I think maybe, (read guess), the heated windscreen relay is R9 which is located in the engine area "fuse" box. The physical location of the R9 relay is interesting as it is right beside relay R8, which I think controls the fuel pump and may have been fooled with re the recall.
Also in the engine fuse panel are located two 30 amp fuses, F15E and F18E that provide power to the right and left hand sides of the windscreen. I presume that you have no heat to either side of the windscreen however?
There is also F28P, a 5 amp fuse in the interior behind glove box fuse compartment that relates to the ignition switch and the coil of the windscreen relay.
Fuse 51P, also behind the glove box, feeds the "heater" controls in the centre dash. That fuse should be OK if the heat / AC controls are functioning normally. I mention that fuse however as I note that part of the controlling system re the heated windscreen and rear window operation relates to signals from the outside ambient air temperature sensor - the one infront of the radiator. I presume that the sensor input is required to make certain that the windscreen heaters are not operational above some preset outside air temperature.
Also see if your rear window heated glass window is working. There is some commonality between the two circuits - the air temp sensor and possibly the relay, as I cannot figure out where the rear window relay is located - may be the R4 relay but again, just a guess. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 14th Mar 2010 5:17 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6232
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bbyer
Thanks for the reply its working again now, I think the relay is sticking, so need to get a new one.
Flack
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| 14th Mar 2010 9:52 am |
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horton_graham
Member Since: 10 Jun 2005
Location: cheshire
Posts: 177
 
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Front screen not working
Relay is energising, both fuses OK. Rear working fine.
Any advice welcome especially where I can check connection to screen.
Thanks D3 xs Izmir blue
D3 s Arctic frost
200tdi D1 13 yrs
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| 20th Jan 2015 12:26 pm |
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photoscubaman
Member Since: 27 Aug 2014
Location: Yarm
Posts: 222
 
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my rear heated window doesnt work,
I would be intrested in knowing which fuses or relays effect that system.
The orange light, lights up on the switch.
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| 20th Jan 2015 1:12 pm |
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Numpty
Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: Bolton
Posts: 673
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Whats the fuel pump recall? Does it apply to Jan 06 55 plate models?
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| 20th Jan 2015 1:27 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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horton_graham wrote:Front screen not working
Relay is energising, both fuses OK. Rear working fine.
Any advice welcome especially where I can check connection to screen.
Thanks
I assume when you say the relay R8 is energizing and both fuses are good, that you also mean that the relay de-energizes and both fuses depower as well when the rectangular button on the HVAC control panel is not illuminated?
If you remove the interior A post covers, (remove screw located behind the Airbag plastic oval cap), that will expose on each side, a spade connector for both the positive and negative conductors of the internal glass heating wires. The windscreen per the circuit diagram below, shows two circuits, a left side and right side circuit powered respectively by each fuse.
The problem might be on the ground side or it could be just corrosion of the spades. Given that both sides are not powered, somehow I doubt that there is a problem at the spades but at least you will beable to test for volts there. I would be swapping relays as it is possible for volts to get thru a relay but not amps. As such, a relay appears to be OK.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...age_60.pdf 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 20th Jan 2015 2:24 pm |
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horton_graham
Member Since: 10 Jun 2005
Location: cheshire
Posts: 177
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Great that's exactly the inf I need.
Will let you know how I get on.
Thanks D3 xs Izmir blue
D3 s Arctic frost
200tdi D1 13 yrs
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| 20th Jan 2015 3:13 pm |
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photoscubaman
Member Since: 27 Aug 2014
Location: Yarm
Posts: 222
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I have noticed on my disco that the passanger side screen clears completely and quickly.
one the drivers side it takes much longer and it seems as not all the verticle heating elements warm up or warm up as rapid so i get stripes.
could this be bad grounding and i should check the spades on the drivers side?
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| 20th Jan 2015 3:14 pm |
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maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
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Same for me  - typically clears the passenger side in a few secs but the driver side is really hit n miss with seemingly just a few elements heating up.
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| 20th Jan 2015 3:47 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| 25 amp F13P behind lower glove box |
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photoscubaman wrote:my rear heated window doesnt work; I would be interested in knowing which fuses or relays effect that system. The orange light, lights up on the switch.
25 amp fuse F13P located in the interior fuse box behind the lower glove box door provides power thru a relay also located behind the glove box door but I do not know which of the relays it is. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 20th Jan 2015 3:48 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| most likely separated internal heating wires |
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maplecottage wrote:Same for me - typically clears the passenger side in a few secs but the driver side is really hit n miss with seemingly just a few elements heating up.
You could check the tightness of the spades located behind the drivers side A post. I would look at in particular the ground side, but given that some heating wires are working and some not, I would suggest that various of the heating wires located within the glass have separated and hence are not conducting power. This is not uncommon, and there is nothing one can do about it as the wires are located in the plastic between the two layers of glass.
I was wondering if the respective windscreens were of Pilkington manufacturer or otherwise? Pilkington's quality control is not perfect but generally better than most. In my second Pilkington, a 3 inch wide dead strip eventually developed - naturally right in front of the steering wheel. At the moment, my new year old Pilkington remains all OK. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 20th Jan 2015 4:08 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| most likely just separated conductors |
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photoscubaman wrote:I have noticed on my disco that the passanger side screen clears completely and quickly.
One the drivers side it takes much longer and it seems as not all the verticle heating elements warm up or warm up as rapidly so I get stripes.
Could this be bad grounding and I should check the spades on the drivers side?
Yes, I would look at the spades behind the A pillar and perhaps check the ground side wiring for undue resistance as it could be a corroded ground. That would be good, as the other and most likely reason is that various of the heating wires within the glass have broken or are separating. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 20th Jan 2015 4:15 pm |
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photoscubaman
Member Since: 27 Aug 2014
Location: Yarm
Posts: 222
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i could understand the arguement that it could be the wires inside the glass.
its just weird that its only happened on the drivers side as the passanger side is the same age and has been exposed to the same evironmental factors?
i couldnt get the A piller off i have not got a big enough torq driver to remove it.
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| 20th Jan 2015 4:38 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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I am confident that there is some law of averages out there that demands that failure always be where it matters the most. On the other hand, maybe just looking thru the wires wears them out? 
You may as well get yourself a complete set of torx screwdrivers or at least the bit ends. There are about six different sizes and you will eventually need them all.
Still wondering about the brand name of the windscreen glass. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 20th Jan 2015 4:55 pm |
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