I started getting the dreaded 'lowcoolant' message when I clearly had enough coolant. This happens when the float in the coolant level switch becomes porous over time and stops floating.
Parts:
Coolant bottle - LR020367
Coolant
Tools:
8mm socket or spanner
Pliers or Mole grips
Hose Clamp
Fluid catching container
Time: 30 minutes max
Safety:
Do not do this when the coolant is hot as you risk causing serious injury.
Do not allow coolant to spill into the environment - it is poisonous
Wash away any spills as it has a sweet smell and animals like to drink it. This is bad because of the point above ^^
Step 1:
Have a look at the new coolant bottle and become familiar with it as it will help you figure out what needs to be done.
Click image to enlarge
Step 2:
Remove passenger side headlight. Video here:
Step 3:
Pull up on the power steering fluid bottle until it releases from the clip
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 4:
Unclip the screen wash bottle filler hose and twist it round and move it out of the way. I placed it in the hole where the headlight goes.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 5:
Looking from the near side of the vehicle, you will see 2x 8mm bolts holding the bottle in place. Undo these.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 6:
Place a container under the car to catch the coolant. Preferably a bigger one than the one I used
Click image to enlarge
Step 7:
Pull the Coolant bottle straight UP so that the front most bracket on the bottle unclips from the mount (visible through the bonnet catch). Once loose you will be able to move the bottle.
Click image to enlarge
Step 8:
Lift the bottle with your left hand and guide your right hand under the bottle until you find the electrical connector for the coolant level switch. Squeeze the metal spring and pull back.
View through headlight once unclipped:
Click image to enlarge
View from top:
Click image to enlarge
Step 9:
Move the top hose clip back and pull the hose off. You may need to twist it side to side to loosen it from the bottle. Expect some coolant to come out.
Click image to enlarge
Step 10:
Twist the bottle to the right in order to give you better access to the bottom hose. Apply a hose clamp to prevent the coolant spilling out from the engine then remove the hose clip and pull the hose off the bottle. Twist the hose left and right first if it will not come off easily. Put your thumb over the outlet to prevent coolant spilling from the bottle.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 11:
Install the new coolant bottle into the engine bay and connect the lower coolant hose. Remove the hose clamp.
Step 12:
Connect the top coolant hose
Step 13:
Line the bottle's front mount with the hanger clip at the front of the car (visible through the bonnet catch). Before you push the bottle down, ensure it also lines up with the bottom mount:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 14:
Remove the power steering mounting clip from the old coolant bottle by pushing up on the locking tab and pulling the clip towards the top of the bottle
Click image to enlarge
Step 15:
Push the power steering mounting clip down onto the new coolant bottle. Hang the power steering fluid bottle.
Click image to enlarge
Step 16:
Line the bottle up with the holes and tighten the 8mm bolts
Click image to enlarge
Step 17:
Twist the screen wash filler neck back into place and clip onto the side of the coolant bottle
Click image to enlarge
Step 18:
Re-install the headlight
Step 19:
Top up the coolant. Once topped up, run the engine for a bit to get the coolant back into the radiator and engine. This will also release any air still in the system. Keep topping up as necessary.
Step 20:
Discard the red cap that comes with the new bottle - this is just a dust cover. Use the cap from your old bottle.
Click image to enlarge
Step 21:
Stand back and enjoy the fruits of your labour.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Last edited by kav1187 on 18th Mar 2013 2:15 am. Edited 3 times in total
15th Mar 2013 2:59 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
Great post Who needs a Haynes manual?
15th Mar 2013 3:32 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Excellent write-up!
I would still recommend bleeding the coolant system properly to avoid any potential issues and I recommend fitting a new cap when a new bottle is fitted.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Last edited by Robbie on 15th Mar 2013 7:06 pm. Edited 1 time in total
15th Mar 2013 3:38 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
I would also advise to double check the hose is not kinked or restricted at all when refitting the bottle. Have seen it done before, and only surfaced as an issue after replacing cambelts, the coolant would not circulate afterwards
Also, if you clamp the lower hose before you take it off the bottle, and hold your finger over the end of the bottle, you minimize the spillage. My D3 Build Thread
Didn't even think to clamp it....would have helped
16th Mar 2013 2:27 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I have a bag of these, albeit unbranded (cheaper) and they do the job. There are much more exotic tools that achieve the same task, particularly when access is restricted. I must admit the Sealey (Model No VS0301 - £15.54), whilst mechanically identical to mine, do have the advantage of colour… not that anyone would forget to remove them...
Handy things to have in the toolbox.
Click image to enlarge
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, many ways to skin a cat, but it takes an experienced mechanics hand not to damage the hose with vice grips. Thumb clamps work for us folk that have more thumbs than fingers.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Is there an exotic tool out there that is not in Robbies tool chest?
Great write up, I need to swap mine, had the message ever since Bodsy updated the dash software, just not got around to it yet, weather is pickng up, so may get off my a and do it Altox GSM FBH controller thread
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D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
16th Mar 2013 11:40 am
kav1187
Member Since: 01 Oct 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 149
Thanks for the replies chaps - I've updated the guide to include hose clamp.
I'm surprised I don't already have one lying around somewhere...better go shopping
18th Mar 2013 1:13 am
SIRIRE
Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: padova
Posts: 14
according to the LR3 workshop manual (section 303-03C) and to Microcat (December 2008 version), the coolant level switch is a changeable part (p.n. PCJ500030).
I have the annoying low level message with enough liquid in the reservoir.
Question is: would it be enough to replace just the switch or there is a reason why I should fit a new complete reservoir?
Thanks for the answer and....... the excellent guide
It's not the switch that fails but usually the float that becomes porous and sinks, you can't I believe get to it to swap it Altox GSM FBH controller thread
IID Pro MV License - D3, D4 & RRS - Enabling, Updates, D4 & RRS Timed / Remote Climate, D4 Bluetooth fitting
PM me for details
Owner of the original "Beanie" grille
D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
17th Mar 2014 7:54 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
As, above - the 'float' becomes a 'sink' and that is the end of the useful life of the bottle.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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Who needs a Haynes manual? 
and do it 
