luciogodoy wrote:

I'm using Colons kit by the way.

Thanks

Lucio

You having a good clearout?

luciogodoy wrote:

Hi all

Is there anyone near Windsor that has converted their D3 S/Wheel to a heated D4 S/Wheel successfully that can help me to troubleshoot mine pls?

All works apart from the heated wheel. I'm using Colons kit by the way.

Thanks

Lucio

ids wrote:

@M3DPO

I think you need to take the paddle loom out and swap sides. The side with the big connection should be on the left hand side.

I had the prototype of this unit from Colin back in the day but just changed mine over to some of the production boards last week. the connectors into the paddles may not have a key. But the pins are offset in the plug so don't think you can put them in the wrong way.

From memory they have a locking tab as well so you will know if the cable is in properly.

Ids

I took a gamble and turned the loom round thanks, it is now working great
The dilemma I had was the loom and paddles were already fitted and for some unknown reason the loom was the wrong way round which meant there was no 4 pin socket within reach of the plug.
Then I was directed to the left switches and the 4 pin socket, this leaves me with the conundrum are the paddles the wrong way round? Is there a link cable missing? Is the loom the wrong way round? Is the loom and paddles the wrong way round? what happens if I turn the loom round and it is wrong?
The profile of the left socket and the loom plug did not match, but although it is not exactly the same it does fit and only one way round.

The most aggravating part was unplugging the loom from the gearbox, having worked on LR electric's and their method of fitting safety catches to plugs to stop them coming loose, which is very good compared to some other manufactures that don't seem to bother(Peugeot), I knew there must be a key to release it, it is just a matter of finding it.
Below are photos of the said plug to assist anyone doing this very worthwhile upgrade .

This is the plug in the closed fitted position, note the locking bar is horizontal, the tab with three vertical lines on it has to be pressed in to release the bar which can then be pushed it down to the vertical position, this will release the plug.


This shows the bar half open, note the slight damage to the locking gear cause through trying to push the plug in without the bar fully open.


This is the position the bar must be in to refit the plug, pressed open until vertical and it clicks .



This may seem trivial to more experienced members, but I ain't exactly inexperienced and it caused me a lot of unnecessary agro mainly due to inaccessibility

Quote:

for some unknown reason the loom was the wrong way round which meant there was no 4 pin socket within reach of the plug.

I though I had said that

Quote:

you should be able to see the 4 pin socket on the LHS switch pack. If your wiring does not reach this, then you have most likely got the wiring connected wrongly or got your paddle switches on the wrong sides

Glad you got there in the end though M3DPO and glad to hear you sussed this Common Amp locking tab out. Else I would have to start supplying Cable ties with the Paddle shift Kit.
Don't worry Maplecottage, your secret is safe

Glad to have that cleared that out of my system Arif