Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Replacing drop links
Well after putting up with clonks and rattles I decided to change the drop links. Front and rear set ordered from TLO for £57.00 all inc,
started with the front set. Wheels off and gave the nuts a blathering of penetrating oil and with the assistance of an 18mm ring spanner and an 8mm socket to stop the lot rotating the nuts came off. As these were to be re-used I kept them safe. All in all it took me 30 mins for both front links. Then to the rear and straight away saw how tight it was. First the nut came 3/4 off then seized. I ended up cutting through the bolt with a junior hacksaw and it took me 2 hours. As I still needed the nut I ended up having heat it over the cooker, after a bit of warming It gave up the nut. 15 mins to put the new link arm on and wheel back on. Hey presto no more knocking
It also made it a little easier to bash the bar of the ball joints of the rear link to give a little more access.
2nd Sep 2012 3:29 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2813
Bumping old post as i've just bought drop links for mine.
Do you need to take the wheels off or can they be done with the wheels still on.
Only have the standard D3 scissor jack as the trolley cant lift it high enough to get an axel stand under it, even in access height.
Edit, read the land rover workshop manual, i need to take the wheels off.
Baws, shall need to either put my trust in the scissor jack and hope it doesn't give way, or get a hold of a proper jack.
11th Feb 2013 5:50 pm
yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
Don't trust the scissor jack
11th Feb 2013 6:59 pm
fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
Don't trust to any jack, use axle stands they are only around £30 for 6 ton stand (3 ton each)!
Why chance it for so little cash
11th Feb 2013 8:01 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2813
Car was lifted with a 3 ton trolley jack and sat on 3 ton axel stands.
The links are completely rusted on though. 2 hours to get one done.
Hateful things!
12th Feb 2013 11:05 am
markV
Member Since: 13 Jan 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 19
Matty 2332 - How did you decide it was the droplinks causing the knocking noise?? and not worn bushes on wishbones??
I have a slight knocking on bumpy roads from somewhere at the front, but after a cursory check and a large screwdriver, I cannot see any problem.
I can live with the slight knocking at the moment but dont want to cause damage by ignoring the noise for too long!!
MarkvDILLIGAF
12th Feb 2013 11:18 am
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2813
I have the same knocking noise, I'm also unsure if its just the drop links.
From the one I have off already, the lower joint is shot anyway so mine need changed.
If its the ball joints then they will get changed as well but it's something else out the way.
12th Feb 2013 11:26 am
nighthawk
Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Malta
Posts: 1163
Most often it's the wishbone bushes or ARB bushes that cause knocking so best get those checked out first. The front lower arm rear bush (the hydrobush) is notorious for loud knocking.
If knocking persists despite replacement or a clean bill of health on the wishbone and ARB bushes, then you might want to have a look at the track rods and drop links.Dennis
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Manual Buckingham Blue
12th Feb 2013 11:58 am
Discoed
Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 1020
markV wrote:
I have a slight knocking on bumpy roads from somewhere at the front, but after a cursory check and a large screwdriver, I cannot see any problem.
Markv
Have a look at this thread, new lower steering bush sorted my knocking out. Any play in this is amplified to the steering wheel. After I had all of my bushes done this was the final cure for all knocks from the front end.
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
After replacing mine it improved but didn't cure the knocking, as stated it was the lower wishbone bushes. One of the drop links though was in such a state that the joint had dislocated, so they were in need of replacing.
12th Feb 2013 7:16 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2813
All drop links changed, mate who changed them says the steering inner arms and ball joints are still knocking.
The joints though were needing done so its something else off the list.
Having real issues re-locating the drop links on my D3- I can of course get the lower in fine- but the top just won't locate and is out by about an inch at least- no matter how I move both drop link and the arm itself.
I have jacked and rested the car on axle stands and extended the suspension hoping that this would do the trick but no joy...
Anyone else had this issue- is there a better way of getting it in...? D4 HSE in Stornoway- love it. Jaguar XF, MG TF, D2 ES V8 and 2x TR7s for playing!
Gone- D3- a fortune spent and now a lovely car for it's new owner; D2 G4 replica- Tangiers Orange and survivor of 2 Pot Noodle Challenge's!
25th Jul 2014 2:16 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
I replaced mine in normal height, fitted the bottom joint and pivoted the anti-roll bar upwards slightly to locate the upper joint.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
25th Jul 2014 2:32 pm
Ginner
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 189
Did my front drop links and front ARB bushes last weekend, I had the front rattle comming through the steering wheel, didn't take the wheels off, just put it in off road height!
Has sorted the rattle, still think it would need front bushes and arms thought? Not as tight as it should be?
J
25th Jul 2014 6:03 pm
Marcrod
Member Since: 11 Feb 2024
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 5
Just did my rear drop links today. Stupidly got the wrong bushes, so they will be done at a later date, but the ones on there weren’t in bad condition. A tip for getting a tight lower drop link nut off (passenger side). Use the wheel jack against a dropped 18mm spanner, to get leverage instead of laying on your back (like I did initially), pushing like Billio. I broke 2 small 8mm socket adapters, so I would recommend 8mm to 3/8, not 1/4, or you’ll be using a 8mm small spanner and 18mm stubby spanner like I was. Took ages. Anyone got any tips for removing the bushes easily without taking the drop links out again?
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