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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
  
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| Instrument Cluster Speaker |
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There’s always something isn’t there!
Been putting up with the airbag warning light on the D3 for 2 months now as I can’t find the time to get it sorted.
Working long hours precludes spending time on it myself, and being completely broke precludes giving it to somebody to sort out.
Woolmeister has even very kindly offered to read the codes for me, but I’m being really rubbish at finding time to tie up with him.
So a very public apology to you Woolmeister.
Anyway, yesterday all seamed eerily quiet in the D3, and something seemed wrong, but couldn’t put my finger on what the problem was.
Pulled up to my garage and the parking sensors didn’t work, which isn’t that unusual.
Then realised I’d taken my seatbelt off and wasn’t getting an alarm.
Rushed out again and finally realised what I couldn’t put my finger on – No indicator ‘Tick, Tick, Tick’ etc.
The beauty of this forum of course is that somebody has normally had the problem before, so I discovered the Instrument cluster speaker issue.
See - http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic84798.h...o+Clicking
Thanks to all who’ve posted on that thread and others, potentially saving me hundreds of pounds in replacing the instrument cluster.
Working in aviation electronics does sometimes have its benefits, the best of which is having a bunch of tame electronics nerds to hand who mostly speak a different language, but are very capable.
Talking through the whole finding a replacement speaker of @ 56ohm Impedance issue with one of them he suggested the item below.
http://uk.farnell.com/projects-unlimited/a...tt=1192971
It’s a 100ohm jobbie, but he’s convinced it will be better than using an 8ohm one with a separate resistor.
Apparently it will be slightly quieter than the original – not a bad thing, but louder than an 8ohm with resistor.
Anyone think of a reason why using a higher impedance one will do any harm?
Going to order one and try it I think.
Just need to do it reasonably quickly so I can still remember how loud the original one was.
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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 19th May 2014 11:45 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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Please keep us informed of your progress.
The speaker replacement procedure is still a black art; hence the more we learn from others, the better.
I figure it is only a matter of time before my speaker fails and given the option of buying a new instrument panel, there is not much downside to attempting a fix first. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 23rd May 2014 2:41 pm |
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Landie71
Member Since: 23 Oct 2012
Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1019
 
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| Re: Instrument Cluster Speaker |
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Nasher wrote:Anyone think of a reason why using a higher impedance one will do any harm?
Can't see it doing any harm - like you say it might be a bit quieter, but other than that I can't see it being a problem
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| 23rd May 2014 6:09 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
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Managed a bit of spare time this evening so fitted the speaker.
Getting the instrument cluster out was the worst bit, and annoyingly realised I'd let my camera battery get so low I couldn't take any pictures.
It's difficult to describe without images, but involves pulling off the two trim panels either side of the steering column, adjusting the steering wheel as far down and as far out towards the driver as possible before undoing the two small Torx screws holding the sliding plastic trim behind the steering wheel.
These screw are below the wheel at @5 and 7 O'clock.
The top of the sliding trim can then be pulled out from the bottom of the instrument cluster and moved towards the wheel to reveal the two larger Torx screws holding the instrument cluster in.
Once it was out and on the bench getting the back off was just a case of unclipping it to reveal the old speaker.
I snipped the two pins it's soldered to before unclipping it, which would appear to be the best option.
I spent a bit of time considering how I could make a small mount to locate the new speaker in the original position with some short wires, but in the end just soldered two wires about 18" long to the board and passed them out through the back of the cover.
I soldered the speaker to the other end and dropped it down the back of the dash before fixing the instrument cluster back in place. I then simply taped it to a convenient bracket down by the brake light switch.
With it all back together the annoying bings and bongs are all back, but at least I have front parking sensors and indicator ticking back as well.
The speaker I linked to above seems to be about the same volume in it's different position but has a slightly less annoying tone to it, less harsh would be a good way to describe it.
If anyone needs some more specific advice let me know.
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 23rd May 2014 7:57 pm |
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Landie71
Member Since: 23 Oct 2012
Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1019
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Well done 
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| 23rd May 2014 8:40 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| External speaker a good idea. |
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I think mounting the speaker as you did, external to the printed circuit board, is the best procedure.
If it turns out the speaker is not the best and needs replacement, it is now an easy task as you have done all the hard work already.
I think when I am faced with the job, I will add a connector between PCB and the speaker to make it plug and play.
Thanks for the write up and it appears as you initially figured, the 100 ohm replacement speaker is just fine. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 23rd May 2014 9:47 pm |
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rsp
Member Since: 11 Jan 2006
Location: Goulburn, NSW
Posts: 161
  
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| Replacement of Loudspeaker |
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I have the same fault and was faced with replacing the cluster until I found this thread. I have ordered a replacement speaker which was less then A$1 but handing was some $10(!). I now need to see if a friend can help or find an auto electrician. I suspect that the local service shop did not want to go down this path in case it did not work and I wanted a refund? Disco 3 TDV6 HSE, Auto, White, Rear Diff Lock. ARB BB, Traxide DBS, GME TX3540S, Safari Snorkel, IIDTool-BT, Doran TPMS, Rijidij Spare Wheel Carrier, Two side by side Drifta drawers, cargo barrier and drop down fridge slide, ARB 47l Fridge, Yokohama A/Ts and out of date 17" Cooper STTs.
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| 25th Jun 2014 12:57 am |
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