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Mike767
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Congleton, Cheshire.
Posts: 138
  
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Tackled this today as mine was leaking and getting the "low washer fluid" message less than 24 hours after refilling. I think the part will vary depending on whether or not you have headlamp power wash installed. Took me about 4 hours in total, bottle was about £34 from GS Knutsford.
I raised the suspension to improve access before I started. Consider using axle stands, although I did not need to venture beneath the car. You will need to remove the front grille, towing eye cover and both headlamp units to give you the required access. Instructions are in the handbook, easy except I needed a little WD40 on the headlamp release sliders to free them.
You then need to remove both side wheel arch covers which are held in place by a combination of screws/clips. Under each wheel arch are 5 plastic "Rawlplug" type fixings that comprise two parts. Chances are, they are hidden by mud. Using a small screw driver, remove the centre part of each fixing. Then remove the plug itself. Take care that you get all the parts as you will need to refit them later. If you have mud flaps, then remove the two small bolts that are visible. There are also two cross head screws located at the front, one connects to the bumper and another holds the wheel arch liner in place. Finally, remove the small cross head screw that can be found in the headlamp recess. This goes through the metal of the front wing to hold the wheel arch cover in place. The front of the wheel arch cover locates into a slot in the bumper, lifting up and out may be required to separate the two.
Once both sides are removed, you can start on removing the bumper itself. There are 4 hex bolts and two more cross head screws located on the bottom. Additionally, there is a larger hex bolt at each end that was previously hidden by the wheel arch cover. Six more small bolts are located on the top surface, these are found in the recess where the grille and headlamps were fitted. Take care when removing the bumper as the wiring loom is not that long. A plug can be disconnected in the O/S headlamp recess if you want to completely remove the bumper. I supported mine on a small chair so that the wiring was not stretched. You should now be able to access the washer bottle.
I removed both pumps using gentle leverage. You should also disconnect the plug that is attached to the float switch. Finally, remove the filler neck by pulling. There are three small bolts and one larger one that secure the tank in place. Two of the small bolts and the large one are easily visible from the front. The remaining small bolt secures from the top, access is gained via the headlamp recess and is a little awkward. Again, take care when removing the bottle as you will need to transfer the motor and filler neck seals as well as the float switch and seal to your new tank. Make sure you replace the float switch the right way up. There is also a brass fitting which the large bolt passed through.
Refitting is the opposite process. I would recommend that you run a leak/function test as soon as the tank is back in place. It occurred to me that one of the motors or float mechanism may have been the culprit and it would have been annoying if I discovered this after putting everything back in place!
The eventual cause of the leak was a failed "weld" in the body of the plastic bottle. Not visible to the naked eye, possibly a result of the recent cold weather and useless screen wash...
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 10th Jan 2011 7:56 pm |
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ronk
Member Since: 18 Jul 2006
Location: Durham
Posts: 279
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A good write up!
I was forced to put mine into my sevice agent for the fix today £94 total bill. It was cold an wet outside and my legs are not so good at the moment due to a spinal op last year - so no options unfortunately.
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| 20th Jan 2011 9:06 pm |
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Mike767
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Congleton, Cheshire.
Posts: 138
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Sounds like a bargain. I was hearing tales of 4 hours labour plus the usual parts. 
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| 20th Jan 2011 11:49 pm |
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ronk
Member Since: 18 Jul 2006
Location: Durham
Posts: 279
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I use an independant Land Rover Approved agent up here. Team Valley Land Rover. I have never heard a bad word against them. They have always looked afte me very well.
Four hours would be a real shocker 
Just checked my bill and its one hour labour and the washer bottle Total damage £95 inc the 20% to help the government!
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| 21st Jan 2011 10:48 am |
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J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
  
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Mike767 wrote:Sounds like a bargain. I was hearing tales of 4 hours labour plus the usual parts.
I think 4 hours is for doing it yourself, laid on your back on the driveway. Anyone who has a ramp and has done it before should be able to do it in no time 2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
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| 21st Jan 2011 10:57 am |
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ronk
Member Since: 18 Jul 2006
Location: Durham
Posts: 279
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They charged me a nominal one hour. Even if my legs were working properly I wouldn't want to roll about in the cold and wet on the drive. If I had a nice warm dry garage I would have a bash
Anyway its done now and the pain only lasted for a few seconds while the credit card went thro!
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| 21st Jan 2011 6:15 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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| Thanks for the Guide job done |
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MIKE767
Thanks for the guide I have swapped the washer bottle over this morning.
It took me about one and a half hours.
Saved about £100 doing it myself.
Cheers Paul. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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| 30th Nov 2012 12:48 pm |
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ronk
Member Since: 18 Jul 2006
Location: Durham
Posts: 279
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| Re: Thanks for the Guide job done |
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chesters wrote:MIKE767
Thanks for the guide I have swapped the washer bottle over this morning.
It took me about one and a half hours.
Saved about £100 doing it myself.
Cheers Paul.
They did mine for £94 (total bill) last year!
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| 1st Dec 2012 12:32 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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They wanted £78 + parts + VAT, so thought I'd better have a go myself seeing year 7 service and MOT in 10 days time £700.
At Team Valley Landrover. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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| 2nd Dec 2012 11:54 am |
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ronk
Member Since: 18 Jul 2006
Location: Durham
Posts: 279
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It was a year ago I suppose!
My seven year service is due in March next year - and the MOT - and the insurance! Its a bad month for bills.
Never mind, your last shirt has no pockets 
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| 2nd Dec 2012 12:22 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| Is low water level sensor a seperate part? |
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After 13 years of service, my windscreen washer bottle is leaking. I am going to try to change it out myself thanks to Mike767's excellent post above.
Additionally I found a bumper removal video per the link below.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/help-can-i-...her+bottle
My question however relates to the low washer fluid level sensor. I think my sensor may be defective and hence turned off in the programming as apparently that was the warranty "fix" when the sensor acted up which was common back then.
When I purchase a new tank, LR part # DMB500040, (as I have the headlight washers), will it come with a new internal low water level sensor or is that something I order separately? If so, does anyone know the part number?
I saw a reference to "float switch the right way up" in Mike's post above so that suggests the part might be separate from the tank. I had thought it was included but perhaps I am wrong. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 6th Aug 2018 4:29 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2293
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The float switch is a separate item I believe, as are the rubber grommets that seal the float switch, and the pumps in place.( it is worth replacing these grommets if yours are quite old, as they can leak. Mine was leaking from one of these, so the bottle did not require replacing, and all could be accessed from behind the wheelarch liner, i.e... no bumper removal required). D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 6th Aug 2018 5:23 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| will remove the wheel well liner first |
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I was thinking maybe I should remove the wheel well liner first just in case the leak was not the bottom seam. I guess I will do that - sure would be easier than finding out the hard way.
I will keep you informed - later this week I suppose.
Thank you. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 7th Aug 2018 2:47 am |
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