Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Jay666d wrote:
Awesome write up!
You really went to town on removing panels. I went the same route to get power to my roof lights, but didn't want to take all those rear panels off... Ended up fishing the wires thru with a fibreglass rod, much like you did with the solder!
Thanks
I was worried i'd catch a wire or something silly by trying to push something through as i'd already had one near miss with some cables! And it was surprisingly easy to remove everything too
2nd May 2015 11:07 am
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
SWR wrote:
Excellent Iceman,
I am following this with real interest.
Any tips to remove the rear qtr plastic trimm?
Already have the split charge system in, just need to get the feed to the rear of the car now.
I also planned to use the earth that is already there inside behind the rear lights in the back corner. Any reason you didn't use that?
cheers.
On a different thread by Andy Foster (I think) someone had posted a link to the workshop manual section where it shows how to remove the rear quarter panel. The manual link is also in Robbie's signature.
However, I undid the 2nd row seatbelt bolt, undid another bolt higher up which holds my dog guard bracket in place, folded the seat closest to it down, disconnected the wire support off the tailgate, undid the rear lashing point closest to it and then basically pulled it outwards as there was 6 clips holding it in place.
Whether thats correct or not I don't know but it worked for me
I put the earth in that position purely because i'm weird!! I thought it would look neater if both cables came from the same direction and slightly less congested in there too
2nd May 2015 11:20 am
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
All finished now folks
First job yesterday was to mount the two distribution boxes, I decided to mount them inside the rear quarter panel with a couple of nuts and bolts drilled through, checking what was behind the panel before drilling of course!!
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It was then time to fit the rear trim until I was left with this
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And then wired them up like so
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Then it was back to the engine bay, I mounted the solenoid inside the second battery box where there was an indent and fixed it with some bolts straight through the plastic
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I then ran one cable from the T-max controller and one larger cable from the solenoid through a conduit, cable tied above the engine cover and on to the main starter battery
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Same picture as before, I ran the positive cable from the solenoid, cable tied to the existing wiring loom and around by the wing where it'll eventually connect on to the aux battery
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Then I connected the main earth from the battery and the earth from the T-max controller to a ready made earth post
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I fitted an 80amp fuse and connected the other positive cable to it which will be the feed from the aux battery to the rear
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And then fitted the battery and connected it all up to reveal this
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IT WORKS 8)
I then wanted to test all the readings were the same, I found the the volt gauge in the rear reads higher than any of the others
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The 14 odd volts seemed a little high to me or is this very normal with the engine running?? At some point it did drop to a more normal level but I don't know what I was doing at the time to make that happen or if it just settled by itself, or if I had turned the lights etc on!!
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But thats it, my split charge system compete
I tried to do a thorough write up as although there was loads of info on this nobody actually showed where they put everything or routed cables from start to finish..........and for someone like me pictures are much easier to understand than being told something!!
Last edited by Iceman08 on 2nd Aug 2017 1:02 pm. Edited 6 times in total
2nd May 2015 12:03 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Really good job there, with an eye for detail. I would probably add a protection layer between the brake lines and the positive cable if they are close.
The voltage when running is normal but it is unusual to see the poor accuracy of the rear display. Even the cheapest tend to be accurate as measuring voltage is pretty easy. I'd swap it out at some point or at least test your meter against a known good. Clearly comparative measurements should be made from the same place at the same time.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Superb. Excellent stuff. I will be using this when I can be ar$€d find time to do mine
2nd May 2015 12:13 pm
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
Top job and a great write up
Done a bit more work on mine today but rain stopped play. Will put it all together in a new thread
Cheers
AndyD4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
2nd May 2015 12:17 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Robbie wrote:
Really good job there, with an eye for detail. I would probably add a protection layer between the brake lines and the positive cable if they are close.
The voltage when running is normal but it is unusual to see the poor accuracy of the rear display. Even the cheapest tend to be accurate as measuring voltage is pretty easy. I'd swap it out at some point or at least test your meter against a known good. Clearly comparative measurements should be made from the same place at the same time.
Thanks for the feedback, what would you suggest I use as another layer of protection between the brake pipes?? Is there a chance my multimeter is reading inaccurate.........it's had a hard life?!! Maybe i'll check the voltage shortly with my IIDTool and see how that compares with my new volt gauge
2nd May 2015 12:39 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
tayaste wrote:
Superb. Excellent stuff. I will be using this when I can be ar$€d find time to do mine
Thanks mate, if it helps at least one person out then i'll die a happy man!!!!
2nd May 2015 12:40 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Andy Foster wrote:
Top job and a great write up
Done a bit more work on mine today but rain stopped play. Will put it all together in a new thread
Cheers
Andy
Thanks Andy, I've been watching yours closely too and I'm keen to see the finished product
Very neat wiring by the way 8)
2nd May 2015 12:42 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Iceman08 wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, what would you suggest I use as another layer of protection between the brake pipes?? Is there a chance my multimeter is reading inaccurate.........it's had a hard life?!! Maybe i'll check the voltage shortly with my IIDTool and see how that compares with my new volt gauge
Spiral wrap, split conduit, teflon tape - pretty much anything you have to hand really.
The voltage reading you get from the IIDTool is not great as it takes it from the ECU and some ECUs are rather poor at measuring voltage. Probably best just to borrow another DMM just to check which one is inaccurate, or use it as an excuse to buy another. It's always handy to have more than one DMM.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
Just started a new thread. But it's raining and I need to go out
The only thing with this forum is I'm only half way through this mod and I'm already thinking about the next one
Cheers
AndyD4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
2nd May 2015 12:59 pm
urhunden
Member Since: 15 Jan 2010
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 773
Maybe this is a stupid comment from an amateur.
But I already have a 12 V outlet in the boot installed from factory.
Is it not possible to hook this up already wired to the extra battery??
2nd May 2015 4:11 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
I wanted to add more sockets and a volt gauge so I left that one socket alone and built a new panel! I'm sure you could fit a split charge and wire back to the original socket though. I quite like that fact i've not really tampered with the vehicles existing wiring too!
4th May 2015 11:03 am
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
After Robbie's recommendation to further protect the positive cables where they are close to the brake pipes I decided to use the remaining split conduit I had left over to do this. Once they were wrapped I cable tied them to the existing wiring loom.
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I also added a little bit where the cables ran over the battery clamp of the main starter battery
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Then I refitted the alarm siren which I removed to make more space during the fitting/routing process. I don't have this siren plugged in as I rather the horn to sound, it's refitted more so just for storage!
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And then fitted the battery and clamp back in before joining the terminals back up
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All slightly neater looking now and that bit more safer!
Last edited by Iceman08 on 2nd Aug 2017 1:26 pm. Edited 2 times in total
6th May 2015 6:21 pm
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