Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Hpfp replacement- new high pressure fuel pipes needed?
Hi all,
Hopefully an easy one but I cant find the answer.
I have a recon hpfp that I am going to swap this weekend with the help of my trusty Haynes. I have hpfp and new rear belt and tensioner. I note the haynes tells me I need to discard and replace all fuel pipes from pump to common rail, diverter rail and injection pump. Is this necessary?
I ask as I cant find these pipes mentioned, or for sale in the usual locations. Anyone know please?
Thanks
Mike
10th Dec 2019 9:05 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Good practice, but not essential. The old pipes will be fine My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Fast reply, many thanks disco_mikey.
I'm all good to go then - fingers crossed for a dry spell!
Cheers
Mike
10th Dec 2019 9:10 pm
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
Totally agree with DM, but who wouldn't. Another good practice is to drape sheets of newspaper or similar over the area of the pipe joints to detect leaks on first start up. The pressures involved are extremely high and leaks are capable of causing serious injuries if detected by hands or eyes.
1997 Defender 90 for the kids and I to have a go at some competitive off road RTV and Tyro trials, daughter picked up her first trophy over the August Bank Holiday.
Previous Land Rover history
1996 P38 4.6 V8 Autobiography
1996 Discovery TDi 300
1972 Range Rover 3.5 V8
LWB Hard Top Series 3
LWB Truck Cab Series 2A
Not been without a Land Rover for over 40 years - I must need therapy!
11th Dec 2019 12:52 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
You’re a brave man relying on a Haynes manual to tackle a job like that!- good luck I hope everything goes to plan It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
11th Dec 2019 9:45 am
MatcherMike
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Well today was the day! 4 hours down and i have the pump off the car. phew!
Removing the electrical harness out of the way is a pain. Ended up removing all injector connectors, and undoing most of the top side connections. Couldn't work out how to get them out of the big square boxes under the scuttle by the battery. but got them far enough away.
fuel pipe nuts are so lose to everything! crows foot and spanner had such little room to move.
Removing the rear belt cover from the engine was almost impossible. top nut came out ok, but the reaching down to the bottom nut was tough! in the end it started unbolting the stud,i dropped my spanner and lost patience. managed to manouver the pump and cog out of the rear cover with the bottom bolt in place with some gentle manipulation!
now the really bad news. the pump i bought 2nd hand reconditioned on ebay (from a guy that never fitted it) is a different type! even though it's listed for mine, it has totally different connectors. So i need to find the right one.
Anyone tackled this job themselves? Any words of advice or encouragement as i contemplate putting it all back together again?!
Click image to enlarge
Thanks
Mike
15th Dec 2019 4:55 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Your original pump is an EU3, the replacement is an EU4My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Thanks disco_mikey.
I had read about the EU differences but couldn't find definitive pics of which is which. All is now clear however. Shame as I only paid 200 for this unit. Will cost a bit more for the right one but hey ho. After this much effort I am deffo going new or reconditioned!
Is jag s type eu3? I see this one which is jag land rover and Peugeot sp will prob go for that.
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Ok thanks.
Can I ask you about removing the belt cover? I couldn't get the second bolt off. Just so tight to move. Do you normally do this? In the end I just bent the cover out of the way but that was tough, and may be so to refit.
Also, how much do you remove the wiring loom? I undid on both halves of engine and would of liked to disconnect more from the battery area.
I'm guessing another 4 hours to refit. How long does it take you now?
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