Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Pete/Ruper - thank you both. I very much look forward to starting on this. (Not remotely). But it is needed I fear. I will report back.
Next stop is Fleabay I think.PAGODA
7th May 2020 1:09 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
Also had the pleasure of removing that rear valve block,
Before refitting it, I done a vacuum test on the valve block and was still letting by even though i had cleaned it and fitted new O rings
know many who’ve had great success rebuilding them, but alas mine wasn’t having it so bought a new one
If it’s any help I used a very short spanner on the connectors to remove it and then replaced the voss connectors with brass pushfit connectors , made life a lot easier, particularly with the one at the back
Hope that may help in a small way
7th May 2020 1:40 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
So the main reason to open the blocks is to clean the white dust out.
Usually as seals are only £15 it seams silly not to change. You can also loose seals!
But if you are in Europe just clean out. No point getting second hand.
Rear is very difficult. I would practice on another one first.
Note. CAUTION. these pipes hold are car up.
I’m sure that when you loosen the pipes that the suspension will lower.
Use axle stands
Loosen the pipe nuts and when air starts to escape, go away for 20 mins to let air out
The white dust comes from the compressor dryer. So a service of that first is wise, to stop more white getting into the system.
Humm. If I was doing a rear I would want new seals in it.
7th May 2020 6:33 am
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Thank you all for the tips and info. I already ordered the gaskets set anyway, it will just take longer to arrive.
My plan is: (hope it will sunny weekend)
- buy the axle stand first. about €25 a pair. useful for the future too.
- get the second hand valve block €35 (I always think it is worth having a spare anyway)
- follow the instructions to depressurize the system and make my effort to remove the old valve.
- swap the blocks.
- test and ride.
Receiving the repair set: open my old block, clean it and swap everything. When time come, put the serviced valve block back and possibly sell the other one on fleabay or here . Do same above with front valve block (as it is still working reasonably well without sinking and its easier to reach.)
Ps.: The pipe coming out of the compressor to the back looks very new, I suppose the previous owner did some service in the pump area.
7th May 2020 9:16 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Honestly, believe me, you don't want to change the rear valve block twice !
It's not urgent!
If you want to do something, clean the compressor drier out, or do the front valve block.
It doesn't take long to change the seals. Just put the valve block on the kitchen table. with some tubs to put parts in
7th May 2020 12:27 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
I heard it is a pain in the back to do that. I cannot touch the valves without the kit.
How easy/pain is to clean the compressor drier? Is there a way to know if it was already cleaned before?(or not)
I will do a search here to see the procedure for that: how to remove it, etc... perhaps I start there indeed.
7th May 2020 12:32 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
the compressor pipe connectors have a ring.
You push the ring in wards and then the pipe should be able to be pulled out.
The big pipes are difficult.
It's the canister with the orange and blue end to service.
Ensure the end isn't cracked between the pipes.
Remove any fine dust.
remove the filter. Remove dust from it.
Put the crystals in the microwave for 1 min. Shake and another 1 min
7th May 2020 1:00 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Search 4x4airseals
Go to you-tube and search for 4x4airseals, the guy on the channel goes through cleaning it very well. The compressor removal and air lines as Pete mentioned are fairly easy to get to, and there is certainly a need to do this I agree. Mine had only a small white coating of desiccant, but after a good clean it behaved much better.
Here's his link:
Very knowledgeable, and very helpful.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
7th May 2020 2:36 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Thanks, everyone. Building up (yet another) to do list.
I pulled fuse 26 last night and the car didn't drop at all.
Completely baffled. I'll put it again tonight and leave it for a couple of days.PAGODA
7th May 2020 9:40 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
I think the height sensors get blamed for that scenario
7th May 2020 10:14 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
SO what does this tell us?
So this means that the issue is not leaking shocks, as pulling the fuse isolates/shuts the air off to the bags/shocks.
So this means...its the valve(s). This is exactly how mine acted. If it were a clogged exhaust valve I think you would get another result. I got an error about Gallery Pressure with the clogged exhaust valve but my car didn't drop.
This was my experience and when I rebuilt the valves no sinky. I have no idea of the functioning that causes this (i.e. but I know pulling the fuse shuts the valves and isolates the shocks) I would assume when the valve tries to function, with the fuse in, there are minuet leaks thru the o - rings of the valves as mine never showed up with soapy water. I also assume that when left overnight the weight of the truck is not being held steady due to these o-rings getting air past them. When you see the inside of the valve you will see why /where this air goes due to worn o-rings. The small orings around the valves are the only seals in the valve, the rest is just held together (sealed) by the bolt pressure of a mated surface with no seals in place.
This is as far as I know, hope this helps. IMO it's sort of like a whoopy cushion.
Maybe an expert will be in soon to confirm, but IMO rebuild valves problem solved.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
7th May 2020 10:23 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Pete K comments
Please consider I am not saying its not height sensors, I didn't see Pete's response. I only have dealt with my issues, and mine was doing the same thing as you outlined, and it was my valves.
I have no idea what pulling the fuse does, and I have had no issues with my height sensors therefore I have not researched anything about them and if they would duplicate these issues.
I assumed pulling the fuse parallelized the elec on the air susp sytem there fore also took the height sensors out of the equation, but I do not know that, and Pete has never led me wrong with any of his commenting.
So two opinions, do we have a third vote LOL.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
7th May 2020 10:50 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
This is how I’ve started to understand it , or not as the case may be
Indeed , When the fuse is pulled it isolates power to the suspensions ecu inc self levelling not being able to be performed
The air bags and air tank can still leak , for example , have a closed valve block, air line to and from the air strut, And the strut itself , only need to have any part of that to leak and corner will drop
The way I look at it , when the engine is turned off, the air suspension will drop down to its reservoir gallery pressure , if seals arnt 100% on the valve blocks , can slowly let by allowing the vehicle to drop , inc exhaust valves or rusty seam on the air tank, air compressor, connections
So at the end of the day , pulling the fuse stops the suspensions brain from opening or closing anything , inc the periodic time to self check
don’t mind admitting when I first had my D3 I couldn’t make head or tales of the suspension and how it worked , thats when many from here took there time to explain things Of how it worked
At the end of the day, I fitted temporary isolating valves ,pressure gauges etc in different parts of the system , to find air leaks etc
Hopefully that sort of makes sense
7th May 2020 11:05 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Cap on descicant res
If you can get a new cap for the descicant res, I would do so. From what I have heard there can be a micro-crack in between the two air in/out ports. Be careful to get the right one, I ordered one off fleabay that was supposed to fit the res from a reputable supplier. When it came the air line size was incorrect on one of the ports.
That was a bummer as I wanted to do it all when I had the compressor out. I did get a new cap later, and when I did the clean out, I didn't actually have the kit for the rebuild in the c=video link above. What I found was only a light dusting of the white powder and wondered if that was the issue it was some slight. Since I had a time critical travel I couldn't wait, so I cleaned and replaced it all. Turns out it fixed the issue without a rebuild, and I have the seal waiting on the shelf if it cones back. So even if it doesn't look to be a lot of dust only a small amount can gum things up.
Also while you are doing all this make sure to get some silicone o-ring lube and lightly coat the o rings when assembling. I also cleaned out some thick grease substance that was in the cup part, and put just the slightest lube on the solenoid shaft. Not too much as that just collects dust. My understanding is that solenoid only moves very slightly, and is NOT prone to failure, but it can stick and its purpose is just to move the tiniest bit to function.
I've had the compressor and all pipes out 3 times now, and the voss fitting have held up and have no leaks on refitting. So replacing them I feel is not a critical issue.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
11th May 2020 7:54 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Update on sinking issue
Hi all, this will most likely, be a long post.
Thanks all for all the help and guidance. I watched the video above on how to service the dissecant thing, I found it not much easier than the valve block (at least to my rusty and seized screws D3 - I sheared 3 screws in various places and broke the wheel wrench on a seized nut )
Anyways, got the second-hand valve block, as I mentioned before and started my journey Sunday morning like this.
Click image to enlarge
Raised the suspension to off-road, jacked up the car, put the new axles stands on and started to think the least annoying way to remove that .
It turned out to be from outside the left rear arch, as you can see from this pic.
I removed the electrical connector and put it down. I have bought some short spanners on offer (€1,50) when I was buying the axles stands. I unscrew the bottom connection (air inlet) slowly until it whistles. Left there some 15 min then I was impatient and remove the connector completely. For my surprise, the valve was still whistling (not the pipe, the valve ) I made a video on that. The valve was leaking a lot.
With the inlet pipe out, you can slide the valve upwards and twist to see the two outlets in the rear. By sensing the nut, I unscrew the top one (out let to the rear left suspension). Again, I unscrew a little and wait another 10 minutes (at this point everything had leaked already through the valve anyway
With the top pipe off, turned the valve to see the bottom one (going to the rear right suspension)
From there you can see the nut and unscrew it easily.
To refit it was a bit more complicated as the nuts do not really turn easy on a "cold and windy" day. But the two rear nut entered fairly easy on their place. A bit fiddly but not as difficult as I thought.
To fit the connectors, as long as you place them straight and hand tight easily they will probably be ok (not cross threaded) (if it is hard to turn or tilted STOP, go back and do it again) only after some easy turns by finger I used the spanner to tighten them.
Once the two outlet pipes are connected, you can slide the valve block in place and as before, finger screw the inlet (bottom) pipe. then tight with the spanner. For all this, I only used a spanner 12 and a LOT OF PATIENCE.
The whole process took about 3-4h with some 30-45min waiting air to come out. Some beer sips some shouts and hand warming, more beer sips, thinking and more swearing and more beer
And after some days.... VOILA the D3 is still high up !!!! All sorted.
Click image to enlarge
My repair kit arrived today, I will do the front valve someday in the future.
After taking my valve off, I opened it to see the state it was inside. It turned out that it was better than I thought
AND I am not sure it is reparable. See the arrow, it is a big scratch in the center housing. Perhaps that is why it was leaking so badly.
If you guys want to see the video of the whistling, I can post it later. Or any specific details on how I did, drop a message and will try to help as much as I can.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
. Do same above with front valve block (as it is still working reasonably well without sinking and its easier to reach.)
.
) I made a video on that. The valve was leaking a lot. 
!!!! All sorted.
