Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
Underseal Rust Proofing DIY Dinitrol
My 05 D3 is looking pretty shabby underneath and was criticised at MOT.
Read lots of threads of whether to go Waxoyl or Dinitrol but I have not found a guide on how to do it specifically on a D3/4 (good one on defender though).
Assuming there isn't a DIY thread, my questions are (based on going with Dinitrol) as follows, please don't think I'll be offended by stating the bleeding obvious.
1. What needs to be removed before spraying? I'm thinking big the protective plate at the front as well as the rear bumper as towing electrics area is a mess.
2. What needs to be sprayed?
3. What shouldn't be sprayed masked or removed? Brakes obviously masked.
4. Any tips, pitfalls or should I just not bother - lol.
As I say ,I've read up on the process and the product just not the specifics for the D3/4. Any help no matter how obvious welcome.
Thanks in advance...
21st Aug 2016 9:47 pm
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
I am sorry I cannot give you any specific tips for the Discovery but there is another product range that you might like to consider, Bilthamber, they make a range of rust converters and anti corrosion waxes that I have found very successful on MGBs that I have restored and when time and weather conditions permit I will be using on my 07 plate Discovery which is looking disappointingly scabby underneath the rear. How is that most other manufactures seem to have cracked the issue of rust prevention yet LR still seem woefully inadequate?
1997 Defender 90 for the kids and I to have a go at some competitive off road RTV and Tyro trials, daughter picked up her first trophy over the August Bank Holiday.
Previous Land Rover history
1996 P38 4.6 V8 Autobiography
1996 Discovery TDi 300
1972 Range Rover 3.5 V8
LWB Hard Top Series 3
LWB Truck Cab Series 2A
Not been without a Land Rover for over 40 years - I must need therapy!
21st Aug 2016 10:11 pm
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
Thanks MGCarr I'll check that out. When I look at pics of other jobs, absolutely everything has been sprayed bar the brakes and I just want to make sure there is nothing too sensitive to the stuff or that will catch fire e.g exhaust etc
21st Aug 2016 10:19 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
remove rear plastic wheel arch liners. (a bigger job than it sounds)
and arch cover.
I wouldn't bother removing the engine/gearbox covers. The rust tends to be at the rear of the car.
Don't spray exhaust/plastic as its a waste.
I remove any surface rust, but it depends on the product your using.
Remove spare wheel.
21st Aug 2016 10:49 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
Mine is getting treated soon. Mine is looking scabby at the back arch area and the chassis has a lot of surface rust I would like treated and cleaned up.
Been quoted £650 for full underside treatment from a company near Glasgow.
All arch liners removed, full underside steam cleaned, old protection removed, any surface rust rubbed down and treated with Dinitrol rust convertor, that's left to cure.
Then all sills, cavities and doors are treated with Dinitrol cavity wax.
Then full underside is done.
They have done a few D3s now. 5 year guarantee with the work.
It will take 4 days to be fully done.
21st Aug 2016 11:21 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
No help at all but my mates 2001 landcruiser is the rustiest car underneath I have ever seen
Ive waxed a few landrovers now, waxoyl rubbish especially where theres any road spray it wont make 12 months, morris ankor wax pretty damned good sticks like the proverbial and you can still move it with your finger 12 months later.
I always say the same, for what someone will charge for the job, you can buy a compressor, proper wax gun and loads of wax for 1/2 to 2/3rds of the price quoted and still have all the tools, then each year a quick top up/blast over takes 1/2 an hour.
Ive never removed anything or masked any brakes off, exhaust no worries any wax just melts off.
Im not actually sure if the D3/4 needs waxing in the first place, its certainly way better designed than the D1/2/defender rubbish box section affair.
Top tip of the day if the guys name is chris and hes a health nut get your waxing done elsewhere
22nd Aug 2016 6:54 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Just about to do this with an RRS in just now. Have heard nothing but good things about Buzzweld, and will be trying it out this time round My D3 Build Thread
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