Member Since: 03 Sep 2013
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 10
I program these clusters, I'm based on the Gold Coast in Australia.
I did the first many years ago, and I do get lots of emails asking questions.
I offer this as a service, supplying and programming, or programming only.
It is worth while mod, loved by everyone who has done it.
20th Jul 2022 2:23 am
AndyCHO
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: Albury
Posts: 12
thp wrote:
Going to try this soon.
@Circuit Star-29, did you ever get around to doing a write up for this?
I have the L322 cluster ready, Programmer ready, 3.3v mod to programmer done, and tested reading the L322 cluster. Saw a VIN at the top and Display part # at the bottom, so assuming the read is correct.
Assumptions to copy from L319 to L322 are:
VIN
- not encrypted
- Also seems to be in approx the same location?
Dash Type
- is this just the display part # at the bottom?
- Also seems to be in approx the same location?
Security
- encrypted and gibberish
- Towards the bottom above the Display part #?
Miles
- encrypted and gibberish
- easy for L319 if you drive it a bit and compare files
Wasn't sure about the CCF changes, i see mentions of changing it from 1 to 2, is this for changing it between Petrol/Diesel? Or is it required to get the cluster to be set correctly?
Watching this to see if more info comes up... waiting on my Cluster to come from the USA for my RRS.
21st Jul 2022 9:35 am
Wizzley0001
Member Since: 07 Aug 2022
Location: Victoria
Posts: 2
Hey was this possible with the Discovery 3? Based in Victoria Australia and im looking for a unit too buy
7th Aug 2022 4:27 pm
AndyCHO
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: Albury
Posts: 12
As far as all my reading has shown it is only Disco4 and 2010 to 12 Range Rover Sport.
There are a few video's etc of Disco3's being done using add on pcb's from Russia or Eastern Europe but very little info I think.
7th Aug 2022 9:34 pm
Wizzley0001
Member Since: 07 Aug 2022
Location: Victoria
Posts: 2
Gutted, I was hoping someone had found a way. Don't mind paying for the trouble but it does seem like something skipped on the D3 unfortunately.
7th Aug 2022 9:37 pm
AndyCHO
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: Albury
Posts: 12
It was tried on the D3 but the Can Bsu speeds are entirely different which means it cant be done the same way it is for the D4 and RRS.
If you go back through the thread there are instances in there showing it working on a D3 and earlier RRS (I think) but again, I believe it has an add on pcb and was being done from Russia or Eastern Europe somewhere so support for it may have been pretty sketchy.
8th Aug 2022 10:58 am
sjhwilkes
Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1
Anyone in the US program these? Looking at doing this in my 2011 L320 - I think I need the TFT dash with a lower mileage than my car (can increase but not decrease on new part?) Some programmer parts and someone who can do the needful over Zoom...(I'm in Pacific Time so somewhere on this side of the world ideally)
10th Aug 2022 9:50 pm
Banesworld
Member Since: 15 May 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14
Hey, I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction. I've been playing around with a RR digital cluster for the last couple of days but I've hit a dead end.
I've managed to read the 24C16 chip from the RR cluster, but the data I've dumped is all 00's.
I've used two software packages to read the chip, NEOPROGRAMMER + ASPROGRAMMER with the same result.
The EEPROM reader is a CH341A Black volt modded to 3.3v.
I'm not sure my setup is exactly correct because when I read another 24xxx chip from an old PC monitor I also only receive 00s.
My fairly limited understanding is that a false reading would provide FFs so I'm confused as to what's going on.
I can't see the chip listed on either programmer's software, so the read is happening under a 'generic' 24c16 label.
I'm also suspicious because the read happens instantly before returning 'Success' with '00s.
Any advice or help at all would be amazing, I've been at it all day today after spending all day yesterday getting the drivers and software set up.
I've attached some photos of the chip label, and the read result from asprogrammer.
UPDATE:
For anyone else who might be struggling, FFs / 00s are a sure sign you are not connected to the chip correctly.
Pulled a good read from a test chip on an old motherboard.
For this, I abandoned the cheap Chinese SOIC8 Clip provided with the CH341A Programmer and desoldered the chip from the board itself and soldered it onto a header making life much easier.
I recommend buying or sourcing a 24xxx test IC for your confidence building.
So I have ordered a higher quality SOIC8 test clip "POMONA 5250" to read + write from the board. RS Components is the cheapest place to source this in the UK. Avoid eBay & Amazon if you value your money.
I am impressed that others got a good read from the Chinese SOIC8 Clip, it is made of cheese and the plastic fingers that grip the chip get knarled up pretty fast if you aren't successful in getting a get good placement on the chip the first couple of tries.
You could also buy a hot air station to remove the chip with less risk but for the home modder who isn't a microprogrammer by trade, this is a much bigger investment.
This project definitely isn't for the faint-hearted but even for someone like me with very little soldering & EEPROM programming experience, it will be achievable with patience, don't expect to turn this whole mod around in a couple of days with zero experience.
I'll keep updating this post with more relevant info for anyone else who stumbles across the thread, reads all 35 pages and still isn't entirely sure if they want to attempt it.
Member Since: 15 May 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14
Fu*ckin' did it boys and girls!
Bit concerned that others have said the programming was the easy bit because I've yet to start cutting the dash up to actually fit this thing yet...
Couldn't have done it without the help of a member on here, he gave me his old and new .bins to reference and compare.
I was so close, I literally mean one hex string close to the correct .bin to have this thing starting the car.
With that said it wasn't a string I even suspected to be my IC code so I still would have been chasing my tail for a few more days making small interactions before I stumbled across it.
Oh and yes I will be buying that man a beer!
Now it's on with destroying my dash to make it fit
Be lucky :thumbs-up:
Click image to enlarge
11th Sep 2022 4:54 pm
AndyCHO
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: Albury
Posts: 12
Well done... I am still waiting for my programmer etc to arrive from China (must be by carrier pidgeon)
12th Sep 2022 12:19 am
Banesworld
Member Since: 15 May 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14
Thanks mate it was a challenge but like I said above it’s achievable with patience and a lot easier with someone kind enough to share their successfully modded cluster .bin for comparison.
I still need to edit the CCF for the rev range to be correct etc but that’s the easy bit.
When your programmer turns up give it a go and if you get stuck give me a shout, I know how stressful it can be when your confused and can’t get any advice or a little bit of guidance.
Same for anyone else struggling, if I can help let me know, that’s what this community is for after all..
12th Sep 2022 12:47 am
AndyCHO
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: Albury
Posts: 12
The programmer finally arrived in the mail today... I will open up my TFT dash tonight and see if I can hook up and download the cluster info.
I should scroll back through and look for the the required software as well...
Might do that first.
13th Sep 2022 6:33 am
Banesworld
Member Since: 15 May 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14
Some progress has been made..
It's also now very clear just how much smaller the old cluster is compared to the new RR cluster!
It's not that much wider but it is much taller and that is an issue for the hood/cover that the cluster binnacle mounts to.
Not only that, with the cluster resting exactly where the old one rested, the MPG info line at the very bottom of the display becomes a little bit hard to see, still entirely visible but I find myself having to lean forward ever so slightly to view the full line of info.
Minor problems though and despite those issues, it is now in the car functioning perfectly.
This weekend I will fiddle and I'm quite sure I know what adjustments I can make to get this to fit perfectly.
So far all I have done is use a Dremel to cut the tabs off the side and bottom of the RR cluster.
No modifications have been made to the discovery dash as of yet, but a couple will have to be made.
I'll update you all when I've got this fitted in perfectly and share the areas of material that needed to be removed on the discovery dash.
Driving home from my parent's house I noticed quite a few neat touches.
1. Cruise control info and speed selection are MUCH easier to see.
2. Fuel level is much easier to gauge thanks to the smaller increments available on the digital dash (B+W cluster just drops in big blocks as we all know)
3. The RR cluster adjusts brightness in the same way as the centre screen, not sure if the old cluster did this or if I just never noticed.
Generally, it is a very nice improvement over the stock cluster and it's a real shame LR didn't fit this as standard or at least to HSE discoveries so upgrading would be easier on lower trim levels.
Pics Below...
Be lucky!
16th Sep 2022 12:26 pm
AndyCHO
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: Albury
Posts: 12
Looking really good there... Well done.
It will be good to see how it all sits with the cover back in place etc.
16th Sep 2022 1:01 pm
Banesworld
Member Since: 15 May 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14
So I have finally completed the RR Cluster retrofit (besides rev range CCF edit)
As promised, I've got some images that show precisely the material that I removed from the dash hood in order for the cluster to slip in nicely and all the trim to nestle back in place exactly the way it should fit.
The only material I needed to remove from the cluster itself was in the form of trimming the original mounting lugs from the bottom edge, and small locating pins on either side of the cluster.
The material I needed to remove from the D4 dash came from the plastic cluster visor, pictures below explain better than I ever could in words here, but, effectively you are removing enough material from the visor to allow the top edge of the new cluster to sit back far enough for the perfect viewing angle and for the visor to not be pushed upwards by the small fan on top of the RR cluster.
if you neglect this step it will make the surrounding trim distort when trying to refit everything.
My first few test fits showed that I hadn't removed enough material and this caused the plastic trim that sits around the cluster face to pop in and out and not sit flush with the horizontal piece on the bottom edge of the dash behind the wheel, very noticeable and not good form.
Using a Dremel, I was able to remove the material fairly easily and didn't damage anything else in the process.
I did cover the steering column with a few rags to prevent the plastic swarf from getting onto the rails that the steering column slides up and down when adjusting the wheel position, this is crucial because those rails are covered in grease and the swarf will easily stick and I expect cause grinding if enough makes its way down there.
Probably took me 3-4 hours over a couple of different days to make everything perfect.
I did also use some 3M double-sided pads on the bottom edge of the cluster to push it up far enough that the bottom mileage/MPG line was a bit more visible. Without that the lower edge just sat a bit too low for my liking.
The pads also did a good job of holding the cluster in place while I popped all the trim back in place around it, not that it was in danger of going anywhere, it's a nice snug fit in there and the leading edge slotting into those cuts from the dash visor helps a lot to secure the cluster in place.
Apologies if this is all hard to visualise hopefully the images will explain a little better.
All in all, this was a journey but it was fun and I can honestly say it looks amazing in person.
Along with my IDCORE carplay unit, I can say the infotainment upgrade is officially complete!
Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread even if I haven't communicated directly, and if anyone else is attempting this and I can be of any assistance, drop me a message
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(besides rev range CCF edit)
