Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
I've done some more chassis cleaning - the drain cleaning adaptor for my pressure washer came thanks to Amazon. Didn't get an amazing amount out to be honest:
Hose in on the left and run all the way up to the front:
And a better angle for drainage:
Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
26th Aug 2020 8:24 pm
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 758
Mega thread mate
Fancy doing mine ??
27th Aug 2020 10:11 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
If you've gone that far why not get it dipped and galvanised?
27th Aug 2020 10:16 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
Plus 1 what others have said , brilliant thread
Indeed would be a shame not to galv seeing you’ve already gone to such ends to ensure it’s being all done properly
27th Aug 2020 11:21 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Nearly finished with the chassis strip and fixes:
Took out the rear diff chassis bushes. Thought this was going to be a monster task, but I had both out in 2 hours. Drilled the rubber, knocked out the center, pealed out the rubber, then chiseled/drifted out the outer sleeve:
Made a start on the rust hole in the passenger side chassis where the 1/2 shaft goes through:
Then had to put on the BBQ,
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
29th Aug 2020 9:30 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4579
That chassis would make a very fine bar-b-que yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Aug 2020 11:04 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
PRFOSR G,
That's the worst bit. The inside of the chassis is is much better condition else where. Must have been sat/stuck in mud at that side/corner. Id recommend checking the drain holes at that location on a routine basis.
A sample internal picture:
Click image to enlarge
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
30th Aug 2020 9:14 am
Doug's Cars
Member Since: 02 Sep 2020
Location: RVA
Posts: 3
Absolutely amazing work...just joined the other day and am catching up on all this!!
4th Sep 2020 1:44 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Took advantage of the perfect calm conditions this morning to get the chassis welding done.
Just needs the over long lip at the bottom grinding back to the correct profile.Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
6th Sep 2020 7:57 pm
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 13802
Nice job New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
6th Sep 2020 9:27 pm
LIAMMCL
Member Since: 27 Aug 2013
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 404
Amazing, love this.
I would advise you speak to http://www.forfargalvanisers.co.uk/ - they may be able to collect the chassis and galvanise it for not that much, considering the work involved in bare metalling it manually.
They can also post treat the galv' to better accept any paint afterwards.
I haven't dealt with them for a while but they do an excellent job.
7th Sep 2020 9:01 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Regarding galvanizing - its on the cards. Awaiting quotes.Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
9th Sep 2020 8:53 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
So, if as part of the strip down and body removal on your D3 you thought it was a good idea to stash all the body trim in the car (boot to be accurate), then you lift the body 6' in the air and only then discover you need to get in the boot and get all the panels out (to get to the jack storage locker to be accurate). How do you do it? Will connecting the battery up to the + and - terminals so that the boot can be opened cause damage as most of the electrical system is disconnected?
There is no access from the front as the doors will only open a little bit against the lift frame. Nothing can be posted out of windows as there is no power to lower then.
Asking for a friend..... Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
9th Sep 2020 9:00 pm
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 13802
New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
9th Sep 2020 9:55 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Moo,
I'll pass on your 'tip' to my 'friend'. Not sure he/she will use your advice though??
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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