Member Since: 23 Oct 2012
Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1019
Well it's been a while, but the turbo's been behaving better recently & only throwing it's teddy out when the tintent is on the back. Having searched a bit more I came across the post from A.J.M at http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic100663.html, in particular the post at the bottom of the first page.
Did it on mine a couple of weeks ago & as the sun was shining this morning, thought it prudent to do it again today.
If anyone's interested I've taken a couple of piccys of the bent coat hanger I made up:
& in use on the offending actuator linkage:
& ready for next time:
& if you really want there's a short clip on youtube of the bent coat hanger in action at:
(BTW the little gold cylinder in my hand is just a torch so the camera pick up the working area.
Hope it helps someone......
Marcus
28th Sep 2013 9:20 pm
H16UUP
Member Since: 01 Dec 2012
Location: Stockport
Posts: 271
I wonder if 2sO reduces risk of this?
29th Sep 2013 12:01 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
No. The part of the turbo mechanism that seizes up is external. It is a combination of moisture from the road, and salt in the winter that causes it to seize. 2SO would make no difference in these cases. My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 23 Oct 2012
Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1019
Can't hurt - I've been putting it in every time I've filled up - makes it quieter & run smoother if nothing else. Also worth driving it 'like you stole it' every so often when it's safe to do so - that makes the actuator move over it's full range too.
Edit - good point DM
29th Sep 2013 6:50 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
There is also a PCM software update available. Every time the engine is started, or switched off, the turbo actuator is moved through it's full movement of travel, to further help prevent this problem
While my own turbo rod was not tight at all, I have updated the software, purely for piece of imind
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
beanie wrote:
DM, how is that software patch applied?
I have had the sticky actuator and now and again if driven like its stolen uphill I can get the ESF back on
It was introduced as standard for MY06 and most MY05 vehicles would have received it as part of the enhancement programme than ran from late '06.
I have seen a couple of later cars without it as a result of remaps being built from the older software. The reputable guys at the time (eg Turbochips) offered new maps built on the enhance software for existing customers; which was nice for my MY05.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 01 Dec 2012
Location: Stockport
Posts: 271
Can you see the actuator rod without any stripping down, to see if it's doing this?
29th Sep 2013 10:07 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Robbie wrote:
It was introduced as standard for MY06 and most MY05 vehicles would have received it as part of the enhancement programme than ran from late '06.
The PCM software, as part of the Q034/Q036 enhancement program did not include the turbo actuator update
There was a separate TSB issued, advising of correct turbo diagnosis, and to inform of said software update. If the car has never had a turbo issue, then it will probably be on the older software
You can see the rod through the N/S/F wheel arch, though you may need to remove the heatshield to see it clearlyMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
I had a split turbo feeder hose but didn't get any smoke. I just had indications of an oil leak at the front of the turbo.
LR wouldn't sell me an individual hose and wanted over £90 for a set. I sourced a tractor hose which when cut, provided two identical hoses. The hose I bought is a Vapourmatic part number VPE4154 (£10.36 inc. VAT).
See the link below for a very brief photo montage of changing my hose. Its a fairly fiddly job getting the new hose onto the feeder pipe and onto the turbo as there isn't much room. A bit of washing up liquid helps. If you damage the new hose trying to fit it it doesn't matter too much. As I said above, you get two hoses for the price of one because the tractor hose has the same profile shape at each end so you can trim the other end to get a second go at it
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Disco_Mikey wrote:
The PCM software, as part of the Q034/Q036 enhancement program did not include the turbo actuator update
Always happy to be corrected by you Mike!
(...but it is listed on my WDS13.6 sheet and pretty sure the vane actuation patch was available as a discretionary patch from as far back as WDS2 onwards; then again, my memory goes dim as I continue the journey to the big light… who even remembers WDS nowadays...)Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Honestly, if I was going to the hassle of swapping that hose, I would go for a set of silicone hoses, and replace all 3 at the same time My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 25 Jan 2010
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 82
After my 06 Disco standing for a month without being used it developed an Engine system fault. It had no guts at low revs and was spewing out black smoke when you put it under a bit of pressure.
Today, with help from you guys I have given my actuator arm a good soak in GT85 and wiggled it to within an inch of its life. The result is practically a new car. Thanks for all the knowledge. I have taken a few photos which may help people of my level of knowledge/skill.
Below the near side heat shield can be seen which is accessed from the near side front wheel arch. I put the vehicle in off road height and took the wheel off too to allow more room. There are 3 x 8 mm ( I think) nuts to take off before you can slide the shield out towards the front of the car.
Click image to enlarge
Once removed you will be able to see the top of the actuator arm. It's the spherical object to the left of and about half way up the green thingy in the photo below. This is what needs to be lubricated and pushed towards the driver side and pulled towards the passenger side as in Landie71's very helpful YouTube clip.
Ok, don't laugh but this was my best effort at an improvised precision lubricant delivery system (IPLDS). If you look closely it might appear to be a bendy straw Sellotaped to the GT 85 straw. The IPLDS allows extra reach and direction to target the required area. i.e the hidden bit below the top of the actuator arm.
Click image to enlarge
Once lubed & well and truly penetrated you can commence the pushing & the pulling. As you can see from the photo below my coat hanger was cheaper than Landie's and not fashioned into the hook shape with the same skill and precision. As a result it was adequate for the pulling, but substandard for the pushing. If you look to the bottom of the next photo you might be able to see a yellow plastic peg from a child's tent. I used this for the pushing.
Click image to enlarge
I noticed that due to my own shoddy workmanship it was tricky to get the hook into the required position. If you hold the main length horizontal with the open side of the hook upwards and insert just to the left of the green thingy and below the protruding nut on the top of the turbo, you should be able to push the hook past the left hand side of the actuator arm as you look at it. Once past the arm rotate the hook 1 quarter turn clockwise and pull back towards yourself. Give it a good push & pull and more IPLDS action and the jobs a good'un. (Sorry about the quality of the last photo)
Once the arm is moving like in the YouTube clip put your heat shield back on and enjoy your new car.
12th Nov 2013 6:52 pm
giacomo.m
Member Since: 25 Apr 2012
Location: Roma
Posts: 171
Hi Landie71
thanks for the great advice and pics of the tool to move the rod turbo
but you could accurately indicate the measurements of the horizontal part of the hook?
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The IPLDS allows extra reach and direction to target the required area. i.e the hidden bit below the top of the actuator arm.
