Member Since: 24 Sep 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 198
Waxoiling/rust prevension
Im still looking round for someone to do it, local to me (NW) but just been speaking to then place its going into for a service. A well known indy who is generally held in high regard.
They do offer the service, but he actually asked my why I wanted it doing, because generally he said they dont really rust.
He did say he would take my money off me, but they don't normally recommend it as changing anything going forward is a mess
Is it because its waxoil? Does other stuff go hard and therefore its less of a issue.
Tbh, I was thinking of doing it, mostly to preserve it but partly to tidy it up.
Im into old cars, and waxoil has its place there (definitely on my series 2a!) but am I out of touch on the the new stuff?
2nd Aug 2021 3:50 pm
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 13882
I won't bother. Rust isn't a major issue on these.New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
2nd Aug 2021 4:15 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6568
Depends…. Might be informative to remove the plastic sills underneath the doors as well as rear wheel arches. There have been D3s and D4s with a lot of rusting there.
2nd Aug 2021 4:25 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Dont waste your money, I had my last D3 treated with Dinitrol
lasted 18 months before it had a terminal breakdown
just enjoy it
2nd Aug 2021 4:29 pm
Mk1Rally
Member Since: 24 Sep 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 198
I might have a poke around it under after a really good pressure wash, there are areas where you can see the subframe/chassis paint is not effective (front wheel area) and its showing a bit of surface rust. I can only presume LR used kids watercolours to paint it! (Though most paints are water-based nowadays!)
If the areas of concern are usually behind the sill covers and rear wheel arches, maybe I can do that myself if they dont require a full treatment?
Any other spots I should be looking for? Do any of those rust converters (fertan, jelonite) type stuff stay black and tidy once you have used them, or do they require overcoating with paint or protectors?
2nd Aug 2021 4:55 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1520
Plenty of advice on the forum from those in the know, basically saying it's unlikely to last or be effective unless you do it on a clean chassis/from nearly new.Gary
-------------------------------------------
Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
2nd Aug 2021 6:05 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Member Since: 24 Sep 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 198
Now that is a thorough job!
2nd Aug 2021 9:58 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Wash the underside regularly ideally in a car wash that has the under wash programme and check it occasionally for rust spots. My 2006 was driving on salt-ridden NY/NJ roads and while there was some rust, it was remarkably clean when sold in 2020.PAGODA
2nd Aug 2021 10:22 pm
MJA
Member Since: 08 Jul 2021
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 85
I use dinitrol products to good effect but you have to remember something like dinitrol 4941 is not a permenant solution - it will come away from impact areas over time and require touching up.
With a job like this you're best researching and doing it yourself. My first experience with dinitrol was my a professional land rover specialist in Hertfordshire. It was crap and flacked away with in months but that's becuase they didn't prep properly or do anything with the surface rust. I am not sure they even steam cleaned the underbody before application.
Since then i have been doing this work myself. I read the technical bulletins on Dinitrols site and the steps are -
wash
dry
steam clean
inspect/wire wheel/repair rust
rust treat such as hydrate 80 or equiv
paint/gravitex areas where factory underseal has failed
apply dinitrol wax in cavities
apply a layer of dinitrol wax over underbody
apply dinitrol 4941 over the wax.
the wax acts as a primer for the 4941.
It's pretty labour intensive and messy so unless you can find someone who will actually do it properly you're better of putting your overalls on.
Also you should also mask off and bag areas you don't want the dinitrol on - bolts, exhaust, plastics etc etc. All takes time.Land Rover(s) : '10 Discovery 4
Other daily: '13 Seat Exeo ST 170
Toys: '95 VW Corrado VR6 | '96 VW Golf GTI 16v | '91 VW Golf GTI 16v
3rd Aug 2021 4:10 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Click image to enlarge
I wasn’t really paying attention but my first thought was “boy, does that look rusty!”. I kind of assumed it was a bit of a before and after thing.
3rd Aug 2021 4:41 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Since rust isn't your thing Del, how are you with diagnosing snapped T belts? yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
3rd Aug 2021 7:19 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6568
I hear he’s only slightly cranky
3rd Aug 2021 7:33 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Bit more than cranky.
It’s just that having kicked the LR habit I’m no longer acquainted with the old tin worm.
3rd Aug 2021 7:40 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
PROFSR G wrote:
Since rust isn't your thing Del, how are you with diagnosing snapped T belts?
Easy, too much force was out on it and it snapped.
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