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B16 KJR
Member Since: 10 Jul 2006
Location: Rosyth, Fife
Posts: 3005
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It certainly was a long way, but perfect for "running in" the new car, round trip of 800 miles. But as I said earlier, I have done a fair few cars with Waxoyl before and REALLY did not want to do this one. It sounds simple, just spray Waxoyl everywhere, but in reality it is VERY difficult to do properly. You really need high pressure to atomise the stuff so it gets right into chassis sections. Martin, it cost me £490 last September.
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 8th Aug 2007 11:26 am |
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GDL
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Highlands
Posts: 219
 
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Just found this thread and thought i would see what you finally did Bodsy . I am considering getting mine done ,i have applied this stuff before and combined with the fact i don't trust our work 2 poster to raise the D3 i got a quote off Lakeland at £230 ,not sure how far they go but they do a good job servicing my horse
Last edited by GDL on 27th Sep 2007 3:43 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 27th Sep 2007 1:02 pm |
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John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
 
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Lakeland did mine last week before I picked it up. Was an excellent job - I've had a good look underneath and can't see that anything's been missed. Very pleased with it. Apparently they take off lots of the trim and guards to get to all the metal.
I used to get my TD5s done by a local bodyshop who hosed it off, let it dry and then waxoyled it. Whole thing cost about £70 and I used to get it done every year. Any small independent body shop should be able to offer the service. By getting it checked every year, I knew any bits that had rubbed off could get topped up.
I thought about the Before-n-after option, and if I had a simple chassis car such as a Defender I'd go for it. Seems like a lot of money and felt very aggressive and 'over sold' which put me off, also there were caveats, which is understandable, covering the complexities of a Discovery chassis. I'd rather spend less and get it redone every few years - but that's probably just the nature of the way I use my cars.
Did have a go at doing it myself once. It's a filthy job, it goes everywhere drips all over the drive etc etc. Would never do it again.
John
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| 27th Sep 2007 2:39 pm |
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Harlequin
Member Since: 29 Mar 2007
Location: Hornsea, East Yorkshire
Posts: 231
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For what it's worth, my experience is that it's horribly messy and not really worth it. I did my last-but-one D2, a few years ago. Covered the gravel drive with plastic sheeting, raised the truck on wheel ramps and set to the task. Despite taking as much care as I could, it went everywhere and the only bit which seemed to be effectively covered, was me!
Added to which, I found that whilst the mud did come off more easily, after off-roading, after a few blasts with the pressure washer, most of the Waxoyl had disappeared and so - after about six months it had all but disappeared and I vowed "never again". I have been attracted to some of the after-market products, but professionally applied, they're very expensive and I'm coming to the conclusion that although I always set off saying "I'm going to keep THIS one forever" - I never do. Another point - has anyone every experienced a salesman, when giving a trade-in value, getting underneath and seeing how 'rusty' your pride and joy is. I haven't! I was taught to be cautious.
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| 27th Sep 2007 2:52 pm |
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GDL
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Highlands
Posts: 219
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hello John c, yours was the post i was looking for but i never find what i look for when i use the search. I have done it a few times on various classics i have got ,not a pleasant job. Yes Harlequin i agree it will get blasted off but not from inside box sections and chassis legs ,we do intend keeping ours so i think i need to do something as rust is next to impossible to stop but easier to prevent and if i do get tempted into a new TDV8 in a few years time i obviously won't miss the £230  but i sure as hell am going to miss it now as it also needs 2nd service and new tyres 
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| 27th Sep 2007 3:42 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
 
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I use Waxoyl on all my cars and it must add 10 years to the life of the vehicle just stick it everywhere in all the box sections etc etc. I put the Waxoyl in an empty Shultz container and use a shultz gun with my compressor. The only thing is it takes a couple of days to get rid of the smell when you get it on the exhaust, and on hot summer days it can drip out of the chassis (not that we get many of them). One of my cars is 22 years old and been Waxoyled from new and its still rust free underneath. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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| 27th Sep 2007 5:32 pm |
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GDL
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Highlands
Posts: 219
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yes thats exactly what i use ,heating up the gallon cans to scary temperatures in front of the space heater helps too
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| 27th Sep 2007 5:37 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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Yep lost my eyebrows once trying to warm up a tin in the winter. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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| 27th Sep 2007 5:53 pm |
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ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15214
 
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Got mine waxoiled FOC by Land Rover!!
Now that's a deal for a tight git! I was a normal heterosexual chap, but in these new woke awakenings I now identify as a Wardrobe.
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| 27th Sep 2007 6:21 pm |
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catoperator
Member Since: 29 Jan 2006
Location: hampshire
Posts: 149
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fluidfilm is a very good product it protects and lubricates ,do a google search and read for yourself,on the subject of cleantech ,i know of someone who had a 110 done ,it was a very clean less than a year old vehicle ,from what i can remember they will not let you see the cleaning process ,to cut a long story short ,some months after the application the vehicle broke down the fault was a knacked ecu ,the box under the seat had a brown tide mark in it ,just as if the vehicle had been sat in water for some time ,no splash marks just a brown tide mark,this cost him a lot of trouble (to diagnose) and a fair amount of cash to put right ,i am not saying it was done by the cleantech process but he knew the history of the vehicle and it makes you wonder
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| 27th Sep 2007 7:55 pm |
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