Member Since: 18 Aug 2008
Location: The Treaty County
Posts: 361
Wheel Wobble under Braking!
evening all,
posted this last year at some stage and after replacing the front discs and pads which needed doing and also the tie-rods the problem seemed to be cured. after being home the weekend it appears the problem is back again seems to occur worst on very light braking, ie barely touching the brake pedal when travelling under 50mph! car hasent done enough miles since last year, circa 5k km's id say at best, since the tie rods or the brakes could be at fault again, could they?? seems to be a whine coming from some where but not sure if it is just extra noise from the near bald tyres, which i usually get when they go low or a wheel bearing going. any one pass comment, where think my problem lies now, could wheel bearing, balls joints now be the root cause of the problem outside of the above two? TIA.
this is a reply I received from a disc manufacture when asking him about Vibrations
“Vibrations are felt through the car with a pulsating pedal when braking. ‘ Pedal bounce’ If the steering wheel vibrates also, this tends to indicate the problem is with the front brakes.
“Cause: Usually due to variations in disc thickness - DTV. These variations in thickness are usually the result of excessive disc run-out, caused by mating the disc to dirty or distorted hubs. When driving (brakes off), the pads are normally in close contact to the disc. However, when there is excessive disc run-out, the pads scuff the ‘high’ parts of the disc onâ€
“Solution: Replace the damaged discs; but when doing so inspect the hubs properly and use a dial gauge to ensure disc run-out is less than 0.1mm (0.004â€). This will avoid damaging the new discs. Alternatively, if the discs are only slightly worn, they can be machined on the car so that they run perfectly trueâ€.
“Facts: If you fit new discs and they’re great for the first 1,000-2,000 miles and then you start to notice a very slight judder developing, you’ve probably got DTV caused by run outâ€.
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15th Mar 2011 8:57 pm
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3291
Cheap discs?
Alternatively, on the D2, the flanges on the hubs could become warped, which meant after a few miles, the new discs also became warped? Not sure if that's a problem that alao happens on the D3...2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
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15th Mar 2011 8:57 pm
irishrover
Member Since: 18 Aug 2008
Location: The Treaty County
Posts: 361
CG,
cheers for that post. seem interesting point!! John C, discs were replaced with genuine LR discs and pads, as i purchased them myself! again, discs/pads and tie rods aint seen 5k km's id say at best since replaced and since being replaced certainly have not been abused or over used by heavy braking!! only driven when i get home from abroad once every 3/4 weeks.
Member Since: 20 Apr 2010
Location: uk shopshire
Posts: 22
hi their had the same changed bottom wishbone bushes and that stopped the wobble.i also had a hum and drown took the front wheels off and caliper spun the wheel and yes wheel bearing had gone so changed both all is well now
I'm going for wheel bearing trouble ..........could be on the verge of total failure by the sounds of it. Straight enough job to do providing you can release all the bolts,soak with release oil or alternative for a couple of days prior to doing the job ......
16th Mar 2011 8:44 am
al cope
Member Since: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Oldbury, WM
Posts: 10289
I got this wheel wobble under light braking after fitting some Britpart discs on my old D3 - once replaced with genuine, wobble went away - but....... I've also got it on my latest D3, after just replacing the pads (genuine pads). TFC thinks it might be down to my steering rack (as its leaking), and its intothe dealer on monday for this to be looked at (and changed hopefully). I'll see what its like after.
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16th Mar 2011 8:53 am
irishrover
Member Since: 18 Aug 2008
Location: The Treaty County
Posts: 361
cheers for the replys lads,
im home again in little over weeks time so gonna leave it at my indy to check out. gonna be an expensive trip to him this time round i think:
sort the wheel wobble (possible wheel bearing as above)
105k service
Fit the a-bar
fix the upper tail gate release handle
possibly front arb's as heard a clunking from the front end the weekend
Member Since: 01 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
The EBC Rotors and Green Stuff pads have proven to me to be a much better solution than OEM. My experience with them, for 60,000 miles has been good. The EBC are good for a few turns, and although you need to lightly turn/true them at each pad replacement, you actually can, unlike the OEM ones. I have been happy with them, and I can also say, that even if you do not have a bit of wobble at the time of pad change, you will shortly after the break in period, so it is worth having them lightly turned at the time of pad installation.
The big difference is replacing OEM rotors every 20k miles or so, and not being able to turn them, or paying more, and having a set of rotors that will go the distance and last (60k miles) so far for the EBC. I am sure there are pros and cons with either choice, or other manufacturers. I just figured I would share my experience.
cheers
16th Mar 2011 6:15 pm
irishrover
Member Since: 18 Aug 2008
Location: The Treaty County
Posts: 361
[quote="tlt"] The big difference is replacing OEM rotors every 20k miles or so, and not being able to turn them/quote]
replacing discs (rotors) after 20k miles seems excessive. i have 105k miles on an 07 and am only on my second set of discs on the front. granted i have changed pads possibly 2/3 times over there life. ill have to wait and see but as simoniz pointed earlier in thread im leaning towards the wheel bearing. will have to wait and see. cheers for the post.
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 312
Same issue here
Changed out rotors and pads when I first got the car. New tires, bigger AT's not too big mow around 7500miles in I am getting the same pulsating brakes. I though maybe air had gotten in to the system and the anti lock pump was trying to push brake fluid but compressing the air bubble. Went to self flush a couple weeks back and decided that I needed to do it with a helper. Seems to have gotten worse now so once bled this weekend I will report back. I did go cheap on the rotors, and had saved the old ones to turn next time. I guess I need to see if they are LR rotors.
I hope bleeding and flushing the system does the trick but will keep these posts in mind. Also need to check the drive shaft center bearings while I have it up.
Thanks2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
12th Mar 2020 6:38 pm
notyalc
Member Since: 07 Mar 2020
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 75
If it is standing a lot, there will be marks where the pads have been stationary.
You feel that every revolution.
If that is the cause, some repeated really heavy braking from high speed normally scrubs the disc clean again.
Just my £ 0.02 worth.......
12th Mar 2020 8:53 pm
SafariDave
Member Since: 19 Nov 2011
Location: NYC & LA
Posts: 775
We are now and then also getting also this wobble or steering jutter on our LA D3 when breaking at about 50mph or so. I was thinking it was possibly worn bushings of the lower control arms, or harden break dust from it standing for months.
DaveD3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey "The Rhino" (our NYC D3)
De-tangoed Headlights, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille, D4 19" Wheels/ Bridgestone Alenza
D3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille (our LA D3)
D2 1999 V8 SD7 Chawton White (our Caribbean Beach truck)
13th Mar 2020 2:18 am
ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
[quote="irishrover"]
tlt wrote:
The big difference is replacing OEM rotors every 20k miles or so, and not being able to turn them/quote]
replacing discs (rotors) after 20k miles seems excessive. i have 105k miles on an 07 and am only on my second set of discs on the front. granted i have changed pads possibly 2/3 times over there life. ill have to wait and see but as simoniz pointed earlier in thread im leaning towards the wheel bearing. will have to wait and see. cheers for the post.
Ian
My experience of front wheel bearings failing is that you will get a warning from the normal test of wiggling the wheel. I had one fail whilst driving and it had been making a slight noise for some time that got progressively worse before letting go. At no time was there steering wobble (until it went bang!).
I also had a separate issue with steering wobble at about 50mph that was dreadful under breaking. But if I stopped the car for a few minutes it would not re-occur for hours (so not a bearing or other mechanical failure since that is unlikely to just vanish). Research on here advised to start with the brake discs - I had upgraded to V8 brakes with a kit with inexpensive non-OEM discs. A switch to Brembo discs cured the problem. Before that I had had the steering checked, wheel alignment done, bearing checked etc.Tony
Club RLD Wheel Protector & Sump Guard
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14th Mar 2020 12:18 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 312
Brake Sys Flush and bleed
Well I flushed and bled my brakes this weekend, with help from my son.
Still have the issue which I assumed would be the case. So no help here for that.
In my case I think its my bushes, as mentioned by others, as I get some steering vibration running at 70mph. It will be some time before I can replace the bushes in the control arms.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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