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Alternator or regulator ?
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Martrum
 


Member Since: 18 Jun 2007
Location: Dorset
Posts: 85

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3
Alternator or regulator ?

So the battery not charging light has been coming on at odd times over the past week or so.
Yesterday, there was a strong electrical burning smell from under the bonnet for a brief moment and now the battery not charging light is on all the time.
With the engine running there is only 12.6v across the battery - it normally is 14.3v

So is it an alternator fault or a regulator fault ?

Is the regulator an integral part of the alternator on the D3 or are they separate items ?

How complicated a job is it to get to the alternator ?

M
  
Post #78905723rd Apr 2011 8:39 pm
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MacLeod 313
 


Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723

Scotland 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

Sounds to me its the Alternator.....Should be in the region of 14.5 to 15v when running, and the Burning Smell is'nt great news.

Never changed an Alternator myself YET!!
  
Post #78906323rd Apr 2011 8:48 pm
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MacLeod 313
 


Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723

Scotland 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

Have you tried the Hidden Button, Diagnostics screen on the SatNav? This will give you the nearest readout to 0.5v of what the D3 is receiving. Really helpful.

First You need to Press here for approx 15-20secs on the menu screen



Then the Left Button for the same amount of time




Then this screen pops up, enter the code 753 and then press OK



Then this button



Which will give you the voltage at the top that the Battrey has at Engine Off, and what charge you are getting when running. Nearest to 0.5v



HTH

Jason
  
Post #78907023rd Apr 2011 8:59 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
Regulator is built into the Alternator

Martrum wrote:
So is it an alternator fault or a regulator fault ?

Is the regulator an integral part of the alternator on the D3 or are they separate items ?

How complicated a job is it to get to the alternator ? M
The regulator is built into the alternator as is common on newer vehicles. Parts are in theory available from Denso and some do rebuild their alternators.

Whether you have the diesel or the petrol engine, removal and replacement of the alternator is a "big deal". I think there are some tricks to doing it, but for the most part, one have to remove the radiator fan, then a belt or belts, and then the alternator becomes visible - that is not the same as removable.
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #78912123rd Apr 2011 11:08 pm
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Dobbin
 


Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 203

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

My Alternator failed a few days before Christmas.

Initially I thought the problem was the battery as it would struggle to start (I thought due to the minus temperatures then) The Battery was replaced, a few days later whilst parked on the drive the car would not unlock. I managed to get in through the passenger door and open the bonnet, I could smell electrical burning. The Battery measured 0 Volts!, completely dead!

I now realised that the Alternator was goosed and had short circuited the battery, thus flattening it.
The biggest problem now was how to replace it, Because the short circuit meant the battery could not power the vehicle electrics, I could not get the car out of Park or release the Park Brake, so It could not be moved. I tried to have the car recovered to a garage but the recovery truck got pulled along the road (Snow and Ice remember) trying to pull 3 tons of discovery with locked wheels!

I therefore bit the bullet and decided I would change it myself. To get to the alternator requires the Air intake pipe and Fan Cowl to be removed. Then the fan can be removed, This is awkward as a special tool is required to hold the pulley while the fan is unscrewed, I managed with Water pump pliers to hold the pulley whilst I removed the fan (Left Hand Thread). The Alternator drive belt can then be removed after the tension is released. Access to the Alternator is now possible, Three bolts hold the alternator in place, it is awkward to access but a good socket set and ratchet spanners help a lot. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to remove mine and about the same to replace it the next day after I had bought a recon alternator for £180. I recharged the battery and the car has been fine ever since.

Dobbin
  
Post #78920524th Apr 2011 11:22 am
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72796

Ukraine 

Is checking the alternator output as easy as putting a multimeter across the battery terminals with the engine running?? Don't have the fancy satnav screen, pauper model. Wasn't there a voltage indicator in the hifi for those cars without the screen??
   
Post #78925324th Apr 2011 3:50 pm
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bbyer
 


Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701

Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverLR3
Electric parking brake again.

I am impressed. I always worried about just getting into the 3 when the battery is dead. I guess as you proved that the hidden manual key open feature on the left side front door is mechanical and at least the hood latch is still mechanical so the bonnet can be opened.

Manual release of the Electric Parking Brake, that is another question however. There is supposed to be a hidden manual mechanical cable release somewhere near the shift lever but when I once went looking for mine, well it was hidden - maybe I was looking in the wrong place but the best I can say is that it was unavailable.

I got to looking at the battery cable drawings leading to the alternator and starter motor. Both are tee-ed to the same battery cable so if you had disconnected the main battery positive, yes, you would have been able to charge the battery, but no, you could not have started the engine without first disconnecting the power lead at the shorted alternator. As such, you did the only thing realistically possible - changed the alternator in place - no simple task in a warm well equipped shop, let alone in the cold and dark.

Land Rover, making mechanics out of drivers since 1948.
 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.  
Post #78926224th Apr 2011 4:45 pm
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