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A1GSS
Member Since: 12 Sep 2010
Location: Saffron Walden, Essex
Posts: 4691
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antoniasdad wrote: Sounds too easy...  ... is fitting the electrics really that simple? ie a job for a competent DIYer, rather than an expert? Is any kind of diagnostics / dealership computer set-up needed?
To answer the first part of my own question, I've now fitted the towing electrics kit and it is indeed a DIY job. Took about 90 minutes. Instructions are entirely pictorial and none the worse for that.
Still unclear whether the car needs re-programming for rear parking sensors and ride height...? Anyone know the answer for sure?
Thanks ____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey
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 21st Sep 2010 8:04 pm |
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rnlisg
Member Since: 07 Aug 2010
Location: kent
Posts: 209
 
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i had my lectrics fitted at the dealers when i bought it,they said it had to be put on the computer to be programed to stop it affecting the self leveling while on the moveit cost £200 all in,i have the removable towbar(they threw this in as part of the deal when i bought it(i think it came out of the rangy parked next to it)but as mcloud says there are plenty on ebay.it definitly makes the back of the car neater when not being used for towing.
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| 22nd Sep 2010 7:33 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| Trailer plugged in at night stops self levelling? |
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I gather that the reason the 3 has to be hooked up to the T4 after installation of the trailer electrics is to educate the self levelling program and I suppose height change circuits not to operate if something is plugged into the trailer electrics socket.
A) Does this therefore mean that once a trailer is plugged into the socket, that with the engine running etc, that one cannot manually raise or lower the 3 with the up down switch?
B) Does this mean that with the engine off, that overnight the self levelling program will remain asleep and hence the circuits will not wakeup and attempt to lower the 3 with the engine stopped?
Both of the above would make sense as to me it would seem that one may not want the attitude of the attached trailer being altered, randomly or otherwise, particularily when parked. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 24th Sep 2010 4:07 pm |
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rnlisg
Member Since: 07 Aug 2010
Location: kent
Posts: 209
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with ref to the suspension not lowering when connected i am not sure as i usually disconect both black and grey cables before lowering the car from the ballhitch before moving it,out of interest i will try it next time i unhitch.
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| 24th Sep 2010 4:18 pm |
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mad max
Member Since: 28 Jan 2010
Location: braintree essex
Posts: 229
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Hi all
Anybody now if my 5 seat base model would need any of this done?
regards 
PS year 2006-56
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| 24th Sep 2010 4:31 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Possible "field fix" to inhibit lowering? |
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Re the rnlisg post, it will be interesting to see what happens when the cables are attached.
Part of what I am wondering is that here in Canada, one can purchase a connector tester plug with built in test lights that emulate a trailer being electrically connected. This is so one can test to see if all the trailer light circuits are working at the plug end prior to connecting the trailer.
My thinking is that if plugging a trailer in keeps the 3 from moving about, that one of these connector testors could perhaps be used as a "field fix" where one is having trouble with the 3 dropping to the stops due to computer or wiring problems.
My experience is that even with sensor / cable problems, often the 3 will rise to a driveable height at startup and then drop shortly thereafter. My field fix procedure right now is to pull fuses, but I wondered if just inserting the testor would override the "lower to stops" command.
Re the mad max post, if your 3 had coil spring suspension, then none of this raise lower inhibit stuff would matter but as I assume it has air suspension, then yes, the T4 computer update is required. In other words, seat count does not relate. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 24th Sep 2010 5:13 pm |
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mad max
Member Since: 28 Jan 2010
Location: braintree essex
Posts: 229
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Hi bbyer
No air. Good old coil springs
regards
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| 24th Sep 2010 5:18 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| green trailer connected light on dash |
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On the air suspension models, there is a green light that illuminates if a trailer is connected. I do not know if that light is there on the coil models but if it is, the T4 programming thing may still have to be done to get the light to work, not that I would think that it matters much however.
With the 3, one can never be certain as sometimes the antiskid programs or stuff like that are altered to account for a trailer behind; it is difficult to find out just what many of these Land Rover recommended procedures really do and why they are a good idea.
In otherwords, I could be wrong about saying that with the coil spring models, the T4 trailer update is not needed.
I do know however that air or coil, many make their own harness and do not worry about the T4 update so .... 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 24th Sep 2010 5:31 pm |
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mad max
Member Since: 28 Jan 2010
Location: braintree essex
Posts: 229
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Ok cheers
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| 24th Sep 2010 5:35 pm |
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rnlisg
Member Since: 07 Aug 2010
Location: kent
Posts: 209
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hi bbyer
i will probably be connecting up within the next couple of weeks so will try it out,and let you know ,interesting idea ref the test wiring thingy if it worked it could be a handy thing to keep in the d3 just in case.ref the fuses which ones do you pull when it drops?
cheers
sandy
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| 25th Sep 2010 6:25 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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In my gallery under the "Fuse 35P Manual Shutoff Switch" file is a pretty good description of what each of the three fuses that I pull, do, and why.
In brief, F35P is behind the lower glove box and fuses an ignition powered circuit to the Air Suspension Control Unit. When the engine is running, pulling the fuse makes the up down switch not work and also seems to stop the 3 from dropping to the stops when told to by the ECU for whatever reason. The dropping problem still persists however when the engine is off as the self levelling wakeup circuit and ECU are still alive and hence can tell the 3 to drop.
As such, in the engine compartment fuse box are two more fuses, F26E and F3E that run between the ECU and air compressor. I actually think that just pulling F26E will also depower the F3E circuit however as I do not quite understand what goes on "after hours", it seems that pulling both fuses de-energizes the ECU and also the air compressor located exhaust valve - which is how the air spring air exits regardless of why, (other than a mechanical leak).
You might also want to look in my gallery at the file related to the "Shrader Valve Air Tank Inlet" mod. The intent of that mod is allow me to introduce compressed air into the system when the onboard compressor has failed. The mod assumes that the remainder of the electronics is for the most part working to allow the ECU to supply air from the tank to distribute to the air springs. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 26th Sep 2010 2:33 am |
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