Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
C1A20-64 Suspension fault code with Dunlop compressor
Had the yellow dash light and bong the past few days managed to get out earlier as its finally stopped raining.
I was hoping it was the known crack on the dryer end cap, but on examination I find that there is a dunlop compressor fitted, must have been done at least 2 years ago prior to me buying the Disco.
I sprayed the lid in the off chance but looks all good.
on start up I had
and after driving for around 5 mins had
on reaching around 1300, fault code thrown again and the reading jumped down to around 350 or so.
This was the log that shows when the fault code was thrown
Click image to enlarge
any pointers on where to start?
1st Dec 2018 4:30 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
So today had 2 faults thrown up on the suspension
• C1A13-64 (2E) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
• C1A20-64 (6C) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
Click image to enlarge
The graph is more or less the same as yesterday, seems to build up pressure then throw the fault and pressure does not rise until ignition cycled or fault cleared
Any pointers?
2nd Dec 2018 7:04 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Hmmm, can you hear the exh valve blow off when tank is filled?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
2nd Dec 2018 7:52 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Dont think so but then I don't think I've ever heard anything
2nd Dec 2018 10:47 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
It should be an audible pssst, heard more easily from the left side of the car, some are louder than others though. You could have a leak in the reservoir or an issue with the compressor, or both. As you have the covers off inspect everything inc electrical connections, you could also replace the desiccant and filters. Beyond that, its a case of removing the whole unit and inspect and clean as you go. You can replace a lot more parts on a Hitachi (style) including piston etc. An AMK compressor has much less available by way of parts due to its construction.
I think, but I'm not sure the Dunlop is a variation on the Hitachi type.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
3rd Dec 2018 1:52 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
Obviously the compressor is working or the pressure would not increase. With the sudden drop in pressure it possibly indicate that the exhaust valve is opening or one of the valve block. When the pressure drops does the car's suspension change front or rear, if not then valve blocks are possibly okay.
I would remove compressor and check the components.
Check that the exhaust valve is not sticking, just pull the pipe of the connector and check no air is coming out when running, its should go up to around 1700 kpa before stopping.
Flack
3rd Dec 2018 11:23 am
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Cheers chaps for all the suggestions
seems to fault out around the 1300kpa every time
3rd Dec 2018 11:28 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Could well be as Flack says the exh valve might be leaking before its energised to do so. If you have IID you can see its operation in live values, (100% open /100% closed) though this should not be taken as a guarantee there is no leak!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
3rd Dec 2018 3:16 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
I'll try this ^^^^^^^ as soon as I can.
Dont know if it makes any difference to diagnosing but from cold start up it takes the compressor between 5 - 6 mins to reach 1300kpa and then faults out to around the 300kpa mark until the ignition is cycled or the fault cleared via IID.
3rd Dec 2018 11:17 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
5-6 min sounds OK if you were using the settings to raise or lower the suspension.(thus requiring the reservoir to be replenished) As this is not the case, 5-6 mins with no settings change, and from cold start would seem excessive.
Have you checked the exh valve as per earlier posts? There is also the possibility of a small leak in the reservoir (usually on top) Sometimes it can be heard if the leak is bad enough, but you really need to get down there and probe everything.
Worst case scenario might be an ongoing minor leak which has caused the compressor to over run and piston / cylinder damage as a result. Hopefully not yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Dec 2018 2:11 am
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Prof G - I've not been able to investigate so far its just my observations whilst driving between locations.
I've set aside Friday to investigate properly
4th Dec 2018 9:30 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Dec 2018 11:43 am
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Problem
Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
4th Dec 2018 3:08 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
I had a Dunlop for about 6 months before it did the same. i tried everything. all electrical connections. sprayed leak detector foam on all joints and valves. checked for chafed wires. i then got told by a very reliable local Indy that they have had problems with a lot of Dunlops. They reckoned that some only lasted a few months. I replaced it with a Hitachi. Problem solved and its been fine for the past year. No more faults. Just a thought.
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