Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: Brabant
Posts: 327
Yes, but it also prevents the bumper working like a scope. So it shouldn't get hanged on something.
9th Oct 2008 9:36 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Would be cheaper to have a days training - "how to avoid ragging your rear bumper cover off", NB, this course also incoporates the "how to ignore other drivers pointing & laughing", "Technical application of 'when all else fails, carry on regardless'", "The DiscoDunc greenlaning guide (incorporating how to ignore planned routes) and bramble rash" and "I've made a cnut of it - what next"
9th Oct 2008 9:39 pm
danny
Member Since: 17 May 2008
Location: Tel Aviv
Posts: 68
I, too drove a D1 before and expiriensing the same problem as Roel with the less departure angle of the D3 and
the fact that the rear bumper become as a scoop in the mud or sand.
Unfortunatly Kaymar is, for time being, the only mfg of metal rear bamper, which with a spare wheel fixture
will cost about 3000 usd, and I think it is not cost effective.
As some of the guys said it is easy to reinstall the plastic back.
I, too, will check the plate offered as we also have a problem with reasonably low exhaust pipes.
Danny
9th Oct 2008 10:50 pm
IKke
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: Brabant
Posts: 327
An other idea is something like this:
It is mounted on the frame beams (the frame goes between the 2 vertical plates), between the spare wheel and the exhaust. The higher side (right side in this picture) should be on the same level as the bumper.
IKke
10th Oct 2008 5:22 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Quote:
"The DiscoDunc greenlaning guide (incorporating how to ignore planned routes) and bramble rash" and "I've made a cnut of it - what next"
what planned routes .
and the bumper hole was assessed, the risk understood, entered slowly, but I didnt want to give up . No real damage done and bumper is still on and OK, so no problem Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
10th Oct 2008 5:30 pm
gilmore
Member Since: 16 Jan 2005
Location: On the sofa
Posts: 2185
I want to take my rear bumper off to inspect and rust-proof the steelwork underneath. What's the non-destructive procedure for removing it, please? ta..
regs
robAll opinions expressed in this posting are my own and are not necessarily those of someone who knows what they are talking about.
Land Rover Defender V8, 50th Anniversary Edition
Mercedes ML350CDI
HM Moto CRE300X
Honda CRF250X
1974 Honda CB750K4
1975 Honda CB750K5
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10th Oct 2008 5:37 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Hi rob,
remove wheel arches by undoing screws and plastic rivets,
remove light clusters
remove plastic rivets that run along the underneath of the the little flap inside the tailgate/boot
remove the screws underneath the bumper 2 on each side
then give the bumper a good pull from each side. there are clips that run across the top and side nearest the wheel that attache the bumber to the body work
sorry dont have any photosDuncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
10th Oct 2008 5:42 pm
gilmore
Member Since: 16 Jan 2005
Location: On the sofa
Posts: 2185
Thanks Duncan.
I'm glad I asked now, as I'd totally underestimated what needs to be done.
cheers
robAll opinions expressed in this posting are my own and are not necessarily those of someone who knows what they are talking about.
Land Rover Defender V8, 50th Anniversary Edition
Mercedes ML350CDI
HM Moto CRE300X
Honda CRF250X
1974 Honda CB750K4
1975 Honda CB750K5
Ford Transit Custom (for the bikes)
10th Oct 2008 5:51 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Its not difficult if you follow the sequence, probably takes about 1/2 max first time you do it. although to undo the screws that attached the wheel arches at the bottom end you will need one of those 90 degree philips screw drivers as there isnt much space between the screw head and the tyre
putting it back on is a lot quicker Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
10th Oct 2008 5:54 pm
gilmore
Member Since: 16 Jan 2005
Location: On the sofa
Posts: 2185
Cheers Mate.
All opinions expressed in this posting are my own and are not necessarily those of someone who knows what they are talking about.
Land Rover Defender V8, 50th Anniversary Edition
Mercedes ML350CDI
HM Moto CRE300X
Honda CRF250X
1974 Honda CB750K4
1975 Honda CB750K5
Ford Transit Custom (for the bikes)
10th Oct 2008 8:18 pm
sideview
Member Since: 02 Dec 2006
Location: in the valley
Posts: 1663
IKke wrote:
An other idea is something like this:
It is mounted on the frame beams (the frame goes between the 2 vertical plates), between the spare wheel and the exhaust. The higher side (right side in this picture) should be on the same level as the bumper.
IKke
Didn't really have the bumper shovel in mind at the time, but I was just thinking recently about a guard of some sort for the tire that could be affixed using the existing cable assembly for the spare.I'm not so good at giving advice...may I offer you a sarcastic comment instead?
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