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Woody,
Very grateful for the pictures as gives us all a fair picture of how brave you can be whilst remaining safe. I've only used a kit like this once and suffered a breakage but after removing the rest we had another go with success. I think we would have given-up after a 2nd break but your pictures show that we would have given-up far too early!
As for your Sealey kit it looks very similar to the Beta kit we used. Not cheap, a bit complicated as to what bit to use next but it did work. Thankfully I did not have to test the access available on the rearmost cylinder as it was the front 2 that broke.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
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Hi Robbie yes pictures say a 1000 words and hopefully it will encourage more peeps to have a go I wasn't sure what was under the threads of the glowplug I thought it would be a smooth hole slightly larger than the glowplug shaft down to the bottom where there would be a small tapered seat and thought once I had drilled the threads out there was no going back, but after getting deep inside I realised it was the same size and threaded all the way down meaning as long as I left a little bit I could of give up cut down an old plug and screwed it back in panic over until another day I have also come to the conclusion it's definitely carbon build up That causes the issues
Robbie that kit used is the same as the beta one and yes can be confusing at times all plugs are easy to get to apart from the front right as the inlet tube is over the top of the plug so an angle drill is needed, to do the rear ones the plastic breather box needs to be removed which is a pain in the ass and today putting it back in I back my fuel pipe on the hpfp I had it unplugged but as I got the breather box back in so far I decided to refit it bad move so lesson learnt there I guess, I have only got 3 more to do but I'm a lot more confidant now I know what's going on in there and what I can get away with
Edit
Would just like to add if anyone does try removing there plugs and they snap leave it attached by the electro as I found with the tool supplied you can twist the electro off mine broke off deep inside the plug meaning I didn't have to do step one of drill the center electro out as can been seen in this pic the drill bit is shorter than then electro part.
Click image to enlarge
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24th Nov 2013 2:51 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
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showed real Balls there Woody hats off, I'd have been bricking it!
24th Nov 2013 5:15 pm
Advanced Factors Site Sponsor
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Kris - Are you the new forum mobile glowplug remover now then?
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Looks like I need to replace some glow plugs as well. Jumped in to the car to this morning and it's showing -2. Car took a good 5 minutes of cranking to start
Never had any starting issues before and this is the coldest morning thus far in terms of car ownership. On a plus side the FBH was running sweet as soon as it started.
Week when I say "I" need to replace them, it will be mikey who has the job of getting them unstuck Well beyond my capabilities...
24th Nov 2013 7:18 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
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5 mins of cranking I think you have other issues there,all 6 of my plugs were faulty last year but still started first time was just a bit lumpy and smoked for a bit Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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24th Nov 2013 7:26 pm
Bev
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Once it started it runs perfect so can only assume the low temperature caused it. It was a bit lumpy but only for a few seconds and once running it was perfect.
Best left to someone else to work out what's wrong with it then Mike?
Having read this thread I don't want nor need the job of removing the glow plugs
24th Nov 2013 7:34 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
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Funny you should say that already had a member wanting it done but need a bit more practice on mine first and your be wanting your 2 done i guess when Geoff does your rear arms
Steve is it possible to get spare parts for that kit do you know ie main drill bit,tap drill bit.
Biffysun i was bricking it but its just one of them jobs that's got to be done,i went in with an open mind and the fact that i might be removing the body to take the heads off ,so going into the job with an attitude like that theres nothing to loose only to gain Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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24th Nov 2013 7:37 pm
1784
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Was having a go on replacing my glowplugs this weekend. Had only one working plug remaining which does not help much in Swedish winter temperatures. I have a mains block heater, but sometimes a quick getaway is required.
The three plugs on left hand side all came out without any issues, but all three on right hand side seemed more or less stuck. I had bought the vibrating tool from Advanced Factors and after spending about one hour on each I managed to get two more plugs out. It was a constant back an forth with the tool on max setting and adding penetrating oil which eventually lead to success.
On the last one, I was not able to get more movement than about 30 degrees even after more than an hour, so decided to leave it for the time being. I'm sure that applying more force would have seen it break.
Thanks for all good advice in this thread and elsewhere on the forum Now I have five working plugs instead of one, will await next cold period to evaluate what difference it makes.
29th Dec 2013 8:10 pm
Baldrick
Member Since: 15 Aug 2006
Location: Dublin
Posts: 76
I was speaking to a friend of mine that works for LR. Apparently some numpty at the engine assembly stage put thread lock on the glow plugs. Not sure when this stopped, but when I mentioned changing my glowplug he said leave them alone and told me early cars including my 07my were affected.
So not Carbon as previously suggested.
I will be leaving mine as is until it doesn't start at all....2007 MY Irish spec S+ TDV6
4th Jan 2014 10:28 pm
Robbie
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Didn't see any thread-lock on the on the ones I have seen so far - the threads were clean. Didn't feel like the way thread-lock 'gives' either, but I have only done a few. Beru plug shear-loading is only 20 Nm.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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Carbon build-up makes more sense than thread lock.
That's what stops them coming out.
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4th Jan 2014 10:46 pm
Robbie
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The manufacturer's thoughts on the matter:
Quote:
In particular after baking (coking) between the glow rod and the cylinder head, the cylinder head bore is often soiled by residues from burning or dirt particles.
Their thoughts on removal:
Quote:
SHEAR TORQUE
Observe shear torque when disassembling glow plugs.
WHAT MUST I DO WHEN THE SHEAR TORQUE HAS BEEN REACHED?
Under no circumstances continue turning – the glowplug might otherwise break off. Instead, proceed according to the 3-point program warming up – slightly loosen – unscrew:
1. Warming up: Run engine until it is warm or use a separate cable to supply current to the functional glow plugs for 4-5 minutes – the glowplug will heat up and burn loose.
2. Slightly loosen: Apply a generous amount of rust solvent to the glowplug thread and leave to act for approx. 5 minutes.
3. Unscrew: Then try to unscrew it once again and carefully loosen the glowplug out of the cylinder head with a suitable tool. (Do not exceed the maximum loosening torque – see table above. Always stop before reaching the shear torque, if necessary try once again by heating up.)
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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Round 2
Ok its been a while but have been waiting for the right time to finish these last 3 snapped glow plugs.
And to cut a long story short Woody 1 Disco 0
This is the last new plug going in
It was not easy and a lot of work but it's done and done properly,no dodgy threads no helicoils etc,if they didn't come out then the heads were coming off.
Just to recap the 3 left to do were left rear,right rear,right front.
So body off and n/s rocker cover off which in turn means timing belt cover off as well
There maybe a way it's a bit long winded but it worked on one of mine which was a bit of an experiment really.
When I first started this post and got the first 3 out I started on the 4 which was left rear but with the body on I couldn't get dead straight on it but took a chance,it was very tight and broke twice but on the second break I noticed it was drilled of centre so give up and thought I will try filling it up with plus gas let it soak in,top up cut a plug down to screw back in place and leave it until I get back to it and maybe the plus gas would work its way down and overtime the compression might push it out hence needing a cut down plug.
So I started on this plug first yesterday it was already drilled out and tapped from the first attempt ages ago,so I screwed in the puller rod and just pulled it out with my hand So this could be away if your in no rush so say at the end of winter drill them lub up and plug them then at the beginning of winter strip and hopefully pull them out and replace,it work for me Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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18th Jan 2015 4:15 pm
Robbie
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Outstanding effort!
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and hopefully it will encourage more peeps to have a go I wasn't sure what was under the threads of the glow plug I thought it would be a smooth hole slightly larger than the glow plug shaft down to the bottom where there would be a small tapered seat and thought once I had drilled the threads out there was no going back, but after getting deep inside I realised it was the same size and threaded all the way down meaning as long as I left a little bit I could of give up cut down an old plug and screwed it back in panic over until another day I have also come to the conclusion it's definitely carbon build up That causes the issues 
showed real Balls there Woody 
Well beyond my capabilities...
Funny you should say that already had a member wanting it done but need a bit more practice on mine first 
it's a bit long winded but it worked on one of mine which was a bit of an experiment really.
