Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
Suspension Compressor Dilemma - REPAIRED!
After over 7 years of no suspension problems, "Suspension Fault - Normal Height Only" started appearing on my display a few weeks ago.
Read the fault codes with my IIDTool and had the predictable C1A20 fault stored:
IIDTool wrote:
Suspension
C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
Picked-up a new dryer and repair kit from Advanced Factors last week but haven't got around to fitting it just yet. In the meantime, I sprayed the inlet and exhaust ports with some penetrating fluid in preparation for removing the pipes. After also spraying the blue voss connectors on the dryer, it was fairly evident that my dryer has a hairline crack on the top of it as tiny bubbles could be seen between the two connectors.
Driving along the other day, I experienced another "Bong" (or was it a "Bing"?) and the display said "Special Programs Off".
Another read of the fault codes revealed a couple of additional faults stored:
IIDTool wrote:
Suspension
C1A13-64 (28) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
C1A36-01 (68) Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
So it looks like spraying with penetrating fluid has caused some problem with the exhaust valve now (or it's just a coincidence).
At this point, I'm beginning to wonder if it's even worth attempting to repair this old compressor or whether to bite the bullet and stick a new AMK unit on it now.
Matford Exeter appear to be doing them for £429 delivered. Generally always keen to support our site sponsors (especially local ones) but that's quite a big price difference.
Obviously, I would like to spend as little as possible fixing this but if I'm going to run into further problems in another 6 months then I'm inclined to ditch the Hitachi unit and put a new AMK unit on it.
Has anybody successfully updated their Ride Level Control Module software to AMK software using IIDTool Beta software?
Thanks,
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
Last edited by Woolmeister on 21st May 2014 12:43 pm. Edited 2 times in total
19th May 2014 2:57 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
Thanks, Mike
Repair or replace, then?
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
19th May 2014 3:20 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Have repaired some with no issues. Have replaced others
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
New dryer unit (VUB504700) from Advanced Factors fitted to my old Hitachi compressor (RQG500080) and all appears to be well again.
No amber warning light on dash anymore. 8) For now.
Old dryer has a hairline crack between the two voss connectors and feels pretty solid to me. Haven't bothered to open it up to see what's inside yet.
Compressor refitted using new captive nuts and new M8 A2 stainless steel set screws from Screwfix. Didn't bother refitting the top bolt in case it needs to come off again. May refit it at some point but it's such a to get to. Feels pretty solid with the new captive nuts and bolts.
Bottom cover also refitted using M6 A2 stainless steel set screws, also from Screwfix.
Job's a good 'un.
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
21st May 2014 12:42 pm
SuperEagles
Member Since: 15 Apr 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 36
Depending on the part number of your existing Hitachi compressor, you may also need to replace the delivery valve.2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
IID Pro MV License - D3, D4 & RRS - Enabling, Updates, D4 & RRS Timed / Remote Climate, D4 Bluetooth fitting
PM me for details
Owner of the original "Beanie" grille
D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
23rd May 2014 9:24 am
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
I've also fitted an AMK and updated the software with a Nanocom too beanie.
I could have also used the MSV-2, that like Mikey, I also have, for the occaisions that i need it's immense capability, but frankly for this simple job, that would have been a bit overkill and as you know the Nanocom already does full CCF Editing and ECU flashing just like the MSV-2 does
As per the OP's dilemna, I am now pretty much in the same boat and am considering renovating my old compressor with the upgrade kits and dryer and re fitting it, although I will also have to toggle the software back which thankfully is no problem for me, so i am especially thankful for woolmeisters tips about stainless steel replacements and leaving that really annoying top bolt out because i also know what an absolute pig it is to get to
Although I supply diagnostic equipment that flashes EAS ECU's with differing software, there is nothing like personally experiencing and so fully appreciating the knuckle skinning aspects involved.
Last edited by BBS SPY on 24th May 2014 4:05 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd May 2014 5:40 pm
Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
I'm sure I don't need to tell you, Colin, but take care when fitting the new captive nuts.
They have a habit of pinging off into the depths of the chassis frame if you don't push them into place with enough force. This happened to two of mine but I managed to fish them out of the chassis box section using some domestic mains cable! 8)
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
23rd May 2014 7:05 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
All advice is greatfully accepted and much appreciated Steve.
Of course i have duly done my time and service fishing things out of the chassis that should not be there.
My own particular preference being a strong magnet on a stiff wire, or a telescopic tool with a magnet on the end, but fully appreciating that whatever works and gets the job done really matters not.
I am also a proud owner of the "having to fix a broken D3 tailgate latch" with, whatever i had in the kitchen, badge too. Some times you have to live the experience to properly understand it
Being a hands on guy, I have to say that your quote
Quote:
Bottom cover also refitted using M6 A2 stainless steel set screws, also from Screwfix.
intregues me.
In the many cases i have refitted the lower compressor case i am sure that like others it has been a pig with the upper half moving around and the clips full of mud and never seeming to latch as one might expect thay would or should.
I would happily ditch this for a couple of proper screws or bolts, but have no idea where to retro fit these.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum