Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
Yes, looks like the sleeve is at fault.
Be careful with dealer prices as the oil will be very expensive from them. As will the sump.
Best option. Drain fluid. Buy a metal sump upgrade, break off the plastic pick up pipe & remove old sump, renew sleeve (as per the pdf) & top up oil correctly.
regards
Steve
15th Sep 2014 11:17 am
UKJay
Member Since: 24 Aug 2013
Location: In The Mud
Posts: 431
Hi Steve
Only reason it is going to LR is I do not have the time to do it at present - and I don't want it to mark the teritory too much whilst I find some spare time to work on it.
I know that LR will want an arm or possibly a kidney to do this - probably even state gearbox will have to come out, which if that happens, I will be having a nice chat with them so that they can explain further.
Kind regards
Jay
15th Sep 2014 4:41 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
It's not a Land Rover gearbox, it is a ZF gearbox.
There are lots of places used to working on ZF boxes so forget about Land Rover dealers and find somewhere that knows what they are doing and at a price that is more realistic.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 May 2012
Location: Burton on trent
Posts: 174
UKJay wrote:
davidsidwells wrote:
I had oil on rear cross member ,auto box oil cooler pipes leaking and running backwards, mine was just 2 O,rings
Hi
Would the oil not be seen running down from higher up the gearbox if it were the coolers? Just for reference, do you have any photos of the state of the oil leak prior to repair so I can see how yours was?
Regds
Jay
Sorry no pics ,it was just behind the exhaust were the pipes go into the auto box
15th Sep 2014 7:34 pm
UKJay
Member Since: 24 Aug 2013
Location: In The Mud
Posts: 431
Robbie wrote:
It's not a Land Rover gearbox, it is a ZF gearbox.
There are lots of places used to working on ZF boxes so forget about Land Rover dealers and find somewhere that knows what they are doing and at a price that is more realistic.
Hi Robbie
The issue at present is that I simply do not have the time personally, and more importantly I do not know of any 'good' non dealer local specialists that I would trust. There are a couple that were reportedly good, but due to some comments given about them recently, I would not trust them just yet.
Anyone can call themselves a specialist, but what an expensive mistake it would be if things went wrong
I would say that LR would only remove and replace with a new box - they won't have the skill to rebuild it properly.
Where about's are you?
A common leak is from the electric socket here:
Click image to enlarge
I believe the metal sump kit (The ones from Bristol Transmissions and VMTP do) comes with a revised connector.
Old
Click image to enlarge
New
Click image to enlarge
It can only be replaced by removing the sump = the white clip in the first picture, holds it in - but break that and it is a new mechatronic unit. Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
16th Sep 2014 6:27 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
UKJay wrote:
Hi Robbie
The issue at present is that I simply do not have the time personally, and more importantly I do not know of any 'good' non dealer local specialists that I would trust. There are a couple that were reportedly good, but due to some comments given about them recently, I would not trust them just yet.
Anyone can call themselves a specialist, but what an expensive mistake it would be if things went wrong
Kind regards
Jay
Hi Jay, I completely understand the angst but an LR dealer will have little or no understanding of how to repair the gearbox should additional issues be found. The LR workshop manual (Topix) covers very few internal repairs (about 5 out of 100+) and most warranty repairs are exercised by replacing the entire unit.
There are LR dealers out there who may have the knowledge and expertise to do more but they are few and far between. The electrical connection sleeve does have an LR work instruction so most (all?) dealers will accept the work but the problems come when additional issues are found. At this stage it is not unknown for dealers to start condemning boxes that could be overhauled and repaired by a specialist.
Hopefully someone near you can recommend a suitable place.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 24 Aug 2013
Location: In The Mud
Posts: 431
anglefire wrote:
I would say that LR would only remove and replace with a new box - they won't have the skill to rebuild it properly.
Where about's are you?
A common leak is from the electric socket here:
Click image to enlarge
I believe the metal sump kit (The ones from Bristol Transmissions and VMTP do) comes with a revised connector.
Old
Click image to enlarge
New
Click image to enlarge
It can only be replaced by removing the sump = the white clip in the first picture, holds it in - but break that and it is a new mechatronic unit.
Hi
If the LR dealer can't repair a £6 sleave on the electrical connector, after removing the sump - then they will be told under no uncertain circumstances that they will no longer get any further work from us as a result, as their suposed technicians should not be working on such a vehicle.
The gearbox has no issues other than the leak, run smooth through the gears etc, so it should not require anything further one hopes.
Based near Oakham in rutland, we are limited for reliable and trustworthy 4x4 specialists, hence why I stay with LR presently for the disco.
Kind regards
Jay
16th Sep 2014 9:51 pm
UKJay
Member Since: 24 Aug 2013
Location: In The Mud
Posts: 431
Robbie wrote:
UKJay wrote:
Hi Robbie
The issue at present is that I simply do not have the time personally, and more importantly I do not know of any 'good' non dealer local specialists that I would trust. There are a couple that were reportedly good, but due to some comments given about them recently, I would not trust them just yet.
Anyone can call themselves a specialist, but what an expensive mistake it would be if things went wrong
Kind regards
Jay
Hi Jay, I completely understand the angst but an LR dealer will have little or no understanding of how to repair the gearbox should additional issues be found. The LR workshop manual (Topix) covers very few internal repairs (about 5 out of 100+) and most warranty repairs are exercised by replacing the entire unit.
There are LR dealers out there who may have the knowledge and expertise to do more but they are few and far between. The electrical connection sleeve does have an LR work instruction so most (all?) dealers will accept the work but the problems come when additional issues are found. At this stage it is not unknown for dealers to start condemning boxes that could be overhauled and repaired by a specialist.
Hopefully someone near you can recommend a suitable place.
Hi Robbie,
In all honesty, I would prefer to do this myself - as it will be both an informative learning opportunity, as well as a way to be happy that the work was to a reasonable std.
If the LR dealer goes off on a mars mission with regards to the outcome, then I will simply get some oil to keep the gearbox topped up until I can free some time up in my schedule, then do the job myself using the pdf you provided.
Kind regds
Jay
16th Sep 2014 9:56 pm
UKJay
Member Since: 24 Aug 2013
Location: In The Mud
Posts: 431
Hi All
Well the time has come to make a decision about this leak as the drips are annoying me, so what I would like to understand is what is involved in removing the old sump and then replacing with the likes of the AF metal sump that Geoff linked to.
How does one torque the bolts that are above the cross member?
Do I use RTV silicone on the sump gasket if I do decide to do this myself?
Do I disconnect battery and touch both battery connectors together to remove all residual battery power to prevent issues with shorting of the connector / esd issues?
How much oil will I lose out of the box when draining it, then what is the correct procedure to fill the gearbox again following removal of the pan?
Does the new pan filter stay in place to allow fitting of the metal sump, or do I need extra hands?
Can this be done on axle stands - or do I need a ramp?
Anything else I need to know?
Kind regards
Jay
29th Sep 2014 7:57 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
There are how-to guides on here somewhere but I have some ZF and LR instructions in my gallery:
Member Since: 24 Aug 2013
Location: In The Mud
Posts: 431
Hi All
Just coming back on this as there are a couple of points that I am still not fully certain of - so rather ask now than pay the piper later
Previous post with the questions I am still not fully aware of (added a little to the filter one)
UKJay wrote:
How does one torque the bolts that are above the cross member?
Do I use RTV silicone on the sump gasket if I do decide to do this myself?
Do I disconnect battery and touch both battery connectors together to remove all residual battery power to prevent issues with shorting of the connector / esd issues?
Does the new pan filter stay in place to allow fitting of the metal sump, as I have read the filter has a torque setting for the ZF gearbox?
Can this be done on axle stands - or do I need a ramp?
Kind regards
Jay
If anyone can offer advice it would eb greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Jay
2nd Oct 2014 6:07 pm
FatJoe
Member Since: 01 Jan 2015
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 7
Hi guys was there a part number for the electrical connector sleeve?
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
