Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Removing shank of 10mm nut when changing brake hoses
I like to plan ahead when doing jobs, so I have been getting ready to change my flexible brake hoses. There are two 10mm nuts that hold the pipe in position.
Having looked at the corrosion on the head of the nut, I would not be surprised if the head sheared off when I use my Irwin extractor on it. That will leave the shank screwed in the pace where I need to fit a new one. I have been dousing with WD40, but think the corrosion may be too severe.
For this particular job, should I plan to drill out the entire thread and retap the hole to say 12mm? If so, any recommendations on tapping kit?
Many thanks in advance2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
4th Oct 2015 7:08 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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If my memory serves (and it may not) it is not a blind hole so I think I just the drilled the shank out from front to back, so no need to re-tap.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 1918
Assuming its the front ones just had a quick look at mine, it's bolted in the top arm and there is no hole above it.
There is a mounting tab on the hose that hooks into the arm and it's then bolted. I would be inclined to try and break the tab off of the hose which would allow some space to some heat from blowlamp on to the bolt hole.
The lower one bolts throught the stub axle and looks like it has a hut on the back so shouldn't be an issue.(I suspect this is not original though)
I guess mine may have already been done at some point thoughIID PRO
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4th Oct 2015 7:40 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20733
The upper one in the arm is unlikely to shear, but as noted, it can be very corroded and difficult to remove
The lower one into the hub is most likely to snap, and can be drilled out and a longer bolt and nut refitted to secure My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Thanks at armalites and Mikey. I will make sure I have long bolts and nuts ready.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
4th Oct 2015 10:17 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
Someone posted a great tip on here:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic130835....e+spanners
With the vehicle on axle stands, use the jack to raise the suspension arms to improve access to these bolts. Wish I'd seen it before I did mine!
Machine Mart do a wide range of VFM tap & die sets:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/...ory/page/1
The 28 piece one has worked fine for me. So far, touch wood, I've only ever had to chase the threads, never oversize and re-tap. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
4th Oct 2015 11:16 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I would avoid the cheap tapered easy outs as all they do is swell the stud in the hole and make it harder to get out, if its just snapped and not corroded they may work.
4th Oct 2015 11:41 pm
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
+1 for lynalldiscovery's comments regarding tapered easy outs, they are c p - this might sound a bit strange but you can buy left hand rotation steel drill bits and I have found that just drilling the stud with a left handed drill bit will often remove it. I think it is the combination of the localised heat generated from the drilling combined with the anti-clockwise torque that brings them out. If that doesn't work then you have still lost nothing because you then have a hole that you can either retap or use a parallel stud extractor on.
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5th Oct 2015 1:43 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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EZ-outs are horrible things and usually leaves you with a ridiculously hard broken bit of metal stuck in the fastener giving you a bigger challenge than you started out with.
LH drill bits are great and as said they do 2 jobs at once. At the very least they are just as effective at drilling out a faster as a regular bit but 99% of the time the combination of heat, vibration, twisting force and the removal of material from the core (ie the opposite of the force applied by a tapered EZ-out) does the business and screws out the remainder of the fastener.
For me they work best when used in combination with a good punch, tapping fluid / oil and the use of a centre drill bit.
The brand above happens to be the same as I use but I get them from elsewhere. Usually the 2.5mm does the job on its own and is by far my most used size, but I do have some up to 5mm - all from the joys of working on small engines. If the fastener is not in a blind hole then I stick with a regular RH drill so that the cleanest bit of the remaining thread is used, rather than pulling the rusty side through.
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
Another great tip! Why didn't I hear about LH bits earlier?
Do these suppliers do multi-packs of small bits? I'm annoyed that you either have to pay a fortune for individual bits or buy a set including lots of duplicate sizes. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
5th Oct 2015 9:19 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Buying a couple of bits, say 2.5 and 4mm, is not going to break the bank (less than £7 inc vat and del).
If you are doing this regularly then I would suggest 2 x 2.5 and a single 3, 4 & 5mm. You should still have change from £15.
Using an impact wrench helps avoid breaking fasteners in the first place.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Last edited by Robbie on 5th Oct 2015 9:30 am. Edited 1 time in total
5th Oct 2015 9:24 am
Dai-Disco3
Member Since: 30 Nov 2014
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 180
When I did mine, I too was concerned about snapping the bolts, but with lots of WD40 and an impact gun the thumping action eased it out without issue (mine is air driven, but electric would also work so long as torque setting set low as it is the thumping that does the work). I suppose the most important bit is getting sufficient grip on the bolt head.
The lifting of the Front Arm whilst car on stands is exactly what I did for the upper bolt, saves a world of pain and scrapped knuckles
Also only release the clips holding the flexible pipes to the body after you have undone/loosened the flange nuts.
Cheers
5th Oct 2015 9:30 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Thanks Robbie et al for the advice. I will be shopping for an impact wrench and some LH drill bits. Even if I don't need them for this job we are planning another project at home (series 3 or early defender), so plenty of scope there for use
I will go and read the recent thread on wrenches.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
6th Oct 2015 10:03 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I'm no bolt Jedi when compared to the skills of others, but if you are careful and patient you can increase your chances of removing a rusty fastener in one piece. As a home mechanic you usually have the advantage of time when compared with a pro.
One of those unfashionable tools I use a lot is a sliding t-bar, as they make rocking a fastener forward and back when applying heat or penetrating fluid very easy.
There are lots of videos on YouTube that describe different techniques really well - essential viewing for a prospective Series owner!
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p - this might sound a bit strange but you can buy left hand rotation steel drill bits and I have found that just drilling the stud with a left handed drill bit will often remove it. I think it is the combination of the localised heat generated from the drilling combined with the anti-clockwise torque that brings them out. If that doesn't work then you have still lost nothing because you then have a hole that you can either retap or use a parallel stud extractor on.
