Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
de-briefing after timing belt change
Hi All;
I though of writing a bit about my experience in changing both (rear & front) timing belts and oil pump case.
First of all, many thanks to Disco_Mikey (for the "How-To:" and parts), Flack (for the oil pump case "How To") and the moral support from GriffMG.
=== >>> THIS IS NOT A DIY JOB <<< ===
If you are not used in performing complex car servicing, or don't have an eye for detail or don't have enough patience - DO NOT attempt in taking this job - it's a gigantic piece of work.
Although not mandatory, I strongly recommend the camshaft and flywheel looking tool - even experienced mechanics uses this toolset, it gives you the confidence that you are doing the right thing. You'll be glad, when you put everything back and turn the engine on - it starts without issues !!
The alternator + bracket needs to be removed fully (one bold is a pain - but doable), and the starter motor it needs to be unbolted and pushed on the side. It is easier if you remove the driver's side wheel for access and visibility.
WARNING: I purchased a LR timing kit from flee-bay, and the flywheel lock was too "fat" to fit on the flywheel hole (this hole is above the hole the state motor goes in to, it is protected by a black plastic grommet), I had to sand the tool surface until it would fit. I lost 2 hours on that, but at the end it fit and locked the flywheel.
I had my suspension at off-road hight (I'm 1,90m/ 6f2), for the rear belt - you spend most of your time climbing on top of the engine, I used a small stool to help me. For the front, again off-road height but on car ramps, as you need access underneath the car - again I used the stool.
Don't forget your torch/light, a must have!! Apart from the Torque Wrench, you need metric sockets, metric spanners and a torx set, and a breaker bar (VERY IMPORTANT).
The radiator fan bolt is a LEFT hand thread, invest the money on the tool, it will help you and save time!!
Follow Mike's advice to release some of the bolts before you remove the timing belt, it helps you.
The crankshaft bolt is hard as rock, I used a gas blower torch to heat the bolt to remove it, once heated it is dead easy. The bolt has a normal thread - it is just f***ing hard!!
I decided not reuse the coolant nor the engine oil, at the end of the job, i've done a complete service, my rationale was: its quicker and for sure it won't be contaminated with anything that shouldn't be there.
Make note of which direction the belt you are removing is pointing to, there are little arrows on the belt.
It doesn't matter which job you are doing, the space is tight, your hands are too big, but it is all doable - take your time, have lots of cups of tea.
Be very methodical, take pictures to remind yourself where things goes, keep bolts/nuts in a small container - so if there are any left over you know you made a mistake somewhere!
Label all connectors you disconnect at BOTH ENDs, so you know what you have done!!
I recommend tackling one job at the time, like the rear belt, once finished start the car, drive around - this is to make sure you have completed the job 100%. And only them move to the other belt. If you try doing both jobs at the same time and run into problems, you won't know where the issue is coming from. This way you isolate the problem.
I wish you good luck, lots of patience and buy cream for your hands/forearms/knuckles.
I have the flywheel locking tool should you like to use, it only costs you the postage.
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
15th Apr 2016 6:31 pm
jmarkha1
Member Since: 23 Jan 2011
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 134
nice write up and a great feeling to get the job done yourself...Bonatti Grey with Tundra, Duratracs, DISCO3 sticker, De-badged then rebadged in black, EGRs blanked - still saving for IC and BAS remap...
15th Apr 2016 6:55 pm
ton.discovery
Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: Zaandam
Posts: 49
Lucio
Interesting write-up. How many hours did you spend to do the job
15th Apr 2016 8:56 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Thanks jmarkha1
Ton, I has taken me 3 days altogether but I have done lots of things, including flushing the gearbox oil.
I would say 5 hours for the back and another 5 for the front belt, but nothing else like the oil pump case, etc.
Program more hours than you think you need as for sure things will not go the way you expect.I'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
16th Apr 2016 1:12 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20733
For Filo's HowTo, I bought a 7L pressure sprayer from ScrewFix (Item number 51100) discarded the tubes/spray/etc - used only the tank & pump, connected a clear pipe which i bough at my local DIY shop and that was it. Make sure you connect the fluid out pipe to a container that you can measure how much oil you have drawn from the gearbox (as you want to replace wit the s me amount) - mine was 4.5L.
As I was changing the pan/filter, I drained the oil on the drain plug on the gearbox sump, again measure the amount (mine was 1L) and add to the overall number - pressure pump.
The gearbox oil pan/filter, is very easy to change, just take your time to remove all 21 torx bolts, there are 6 or 7 of them which are hidden away, but if you use a small ratchet, it is easy enough. Make sure the suspension is in full off-road hight (I had mine in full off-road, and the front wheel on ramps), also you need to use a hacksaw to cut the filter tube, otherwise you won't be able to remove the pan/filter without lifting the engine, etc.
Since you are removing the oil (known amount) and pumping it back (known amount) I felt it would be ok to have the car in a bit of a slope (this is your decision to make), however at the time of checking the level the car was levelled.
The critical part is to check the oil level, and this is how you check:
1) The car must be levelled (I had mine in off-road mode),
2) If you haven't removed the 6x 10mm screws that holds the gearbox protection tray - remove it now,
3) On the side of the gearbox (driver's side), you will find a kind of filler plug, with an Inner hexagon 8mm on it, removing this plug give you access to filling the gearbox with oil or/and checking oil level - BUT DO NOT REMOVE YET, just release a bit, to make your job easier later,
4) The engine gearbox oil temperature must be between 30C to 35C, to a maximum of 40C, otherwise the measurement will be wrong, I used the JLR SDD tool to measure the temperature, I noticed that the temperature gauge in my car was just about the fist line (cold) on the water temp meter,
5) Whilst the engine is running, move the gear stick to R then D, then R then D, then P, and leave the car engine running ( air con must also be on),
6) Make sure you have some card box paper underneath the gearbox to collect any oil leaks, I also had a plastic jar (bought it from a £1 shop) to collect any excess oil.
7) Make sure you have a way to inject oil on the gearbox, I used a 1L oil bottle with a pipe stuck on it with gaffe tape, it did the trick.
8 ) Remove the plug from the side of the gearbox, and:
a) If there is an oil trickle coming from the gearbox, as long is a trickle, you are good to go, place the plug back and tighten it to 35Nm
b) If there is lots of oil coming from it (is the engine still running - yes), collect the excess oil until it is a trickle, like in a) c) No drips or trickles, is the engine between 30C to 35C, if so, you need to fill the gearbox until you get oil trickling, once you reach that stage you are done.
Put everything back as it was, I did reset the auto-learn feature on the gearbox, and the difference was very notable - i'm very happy.
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
18th Apr 2016 2:00 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10373
Thanks for much for your guide.
18th Apr 2016 5:53 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10373
Hi
Which oil did you use?
Did you replace the electrical connector in the gearbox? The one they recommend you replace? Does anyone know where to get them from?
Thanks
22nd Apr 2016 10:30 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10373
AF sell the connector sleeve for £10.
Some advice I would add when changing the gearbox sump pan.
The bolts on the passenger side (prop shaft/exhaust side) can seize up (and snap) as well at the front corner ones.
Therefore spray WD40 into the top of the threaded hole if they feel tight.
The front bolts are a fiddle to do and not helped if you have the diesel FBH fitted.
I too got 1 litre out of the sump and then left it over night and got another 1 litre out. Still 5.5l total though
When putting the oil back in, I had to put it back into the radiator end. (not where it came out)
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