Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Finally I've Sorted my Heated Steering Wheel module - How To
Hi All;
Not sure how many people are aware about the difficulties in converting the D3 Steering Wheel to a D4 heated Steering Wheel (SW).
You need a number of components; such as:
- D4 heated Steering Wheel
- New clock spring,
- New PCB boards for the switches (BBS SPY members sells the kit)
From time to time you will see D4/Range Rover heated Steering Wheels for sale on flea-bay, but most of these heated Steering Wheels have a new ECU Module, which is not compatible with previous setup.
I speak from experience, I have tried a number of ways around the new ECU issue, including purchasing new modules, hacking my own module, and many other attempts, however they all fail!!
At last I have found a way to satisfy my need to have a clean setup! I don't like making holes, etc on my cars, but this worked quite nicely, as you see on the picture below:
The heated Steering Wheel ECU has 3 functions:
- Timer
- Temperature cut-off switch
- Push on/off switch
Despite my efforts, my setup only covers 1 of the 3 functions - the timer.
The operation is very simple, you push the button and you switch the heated Steering Wheel for 2 minutes, that's it! And you can repeat as often you need/ want - but be careful not to over heat the heated Steering Wheel element and melt/burn the leather!
Circuit Design - Please note that the timer circuit seats outside the steering wheel, and that the heated steering wheel button on the steering wheel is INACTIVE not used.
Click image to enlarge
The Kit list is as follows:
1 x Heated Steering Wheel Connector (LR/RR) (sold here)
1 x Timer FRM01 flea-bay (this is microprocessor controlled and it works)
1 x Momentary push button switch with 12v LED - Maplin N27KA
1 x ABS box, I used the T3 KC92 (i found a bit tight)
1 x Heat shrink tube
1 x various wires -lengths and colours
1 x Pliers, wire-cutters, torx bits, soldering iron, solder, drill, bits, screw driver etc.
How I have done it:
1) Disconnect the battery - wait 10 minutes to discharge air-bag
2) Remove airbag, i'm assuming you already installed the clock-spring, steering wheel etc.
3) Remove heating ECU
4) Identify the heating element connector, the outside connectors are the heating element, the middle connectors are a varistor setup.
Please Note: I destroyed my heating ECU and used the connectors to connect wires etc.
5) Connect the clock-spring voltage supply to the heating element, since this is a heating element, polarity isn't a major issue.
6) Put everything back, making sure wires are tucked away.
Now turn your attention to the timer.
7) I have set the timer for 2 minutes, as I felt this is enough time to heat-up the wheel slowly, and if I needed to press more times, 2 minutes is short enough to repeat.
8) I used program number 10 on the timer (instructions can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1129758
9) follow the timer instructions for the 12Vdc supply, and use the CH1 and +Vdc with the push-switch to trigger the timer
10) Use the COM and NO contacts on the relay, also used a feed from the NO to power the switch LED, as it turns ON when the relays turns on.
11) Make couple of holes on the side of the ABS box, and fit the timer and wires securely in the box
12) I have installed my box underneath the steering column, secured by a plastic tie.
13) Now for the button, you have 2 bigger contacts for the LED, please observe polarity (try and error here), and 3 little connectors for the switch, the middle connector is the COM, and using a multimeter you need to find the NO, and solder wires to it, and this will trigger the timer to start counting.
14) to remove the light switch, you need to remove the whole air vent, and you do that by using brute force pulling from the bottom part upwards to release couple metal clips.
15) to free the switch from the air-con vent, undo 4 torx screws.
16) to remove the switch faceplate, use a flat screwdriver to pry the top off, there are 4 small fragile clips
17) there 2 important things to-do now,
A) Drill a 16mm hole on the switch faceplate - precision is a must i used a pillar drill
B) Clear some plastic bits from the switch body, so one part fits the other.
18) To clear the area, I used my bench drill and a sharp knife, and it looked like the picture below:
19) for the faceplate, I measure the switch-hole and then transferred to the faceplate, and these were my measurements (please check your own setup):
20) I also made a hole at the bottom of the switch for the wires to exit
21) please note that the switch is just a bit longer, so you need to bend the connectors to the side, and cover with a bit of electrical tape, to prevent short-circuiting with the IC (which will be below the switch)
22) Put the switch back together, solder the cables to the timer cables,
23) and just before putting the switch/air-con vent back, test the setup, if all works you are good to go.
24) good luck
Its nice to have a warm steering wheel!
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
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