Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Suspension fault, front cross-link valve (SOLVED)
Some times when driving over a small bump, i get the suspension fault. (this bump is a road that's a bit higher where i need to turn in, so not straight forward)
This only happens on a certain speed/ At very low speed there is no fault.
Some times i get this when driving on a road with holes.
This message is gone the next start of the car.
When reading out the fault message (with IIDTool) i get front C1A37 cross-link valve.
I think the fault message means that the cross-link (valve between left and right suspension) stay's open.
This should only happens in offroad mode.
I did removed the valve and take a look inside.
Then valve in the middle was stuck (did not moved).
I could free the shaft and put everything together.
I also measure the three coils. all measure the same. (can not remember the correct value).
After installing the valve back, i take a drive on the same bump (this is in my street).
There the fault message came back.
Then i order a new valve.
But that didn't work. Still the same fault message.
Could this be a height sensor that is faulty?
When looking at the live values of the height sensors i could not see anything strange.
Or do i need to check something else?2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
Last edited by Black_64 on 24th May 2012 2:31 pm. Edited 1 time in total
Fortunately the solenoids re the block valves run on 12VDC; (the height sensors however on 5VDC). With the removed block valve, you might test the operation of the three solenoids. I suspect there is a wiring problem with the conductors to the block valve rather than the actual block valve.
As to where the wiring problem actually is, that is not so easy. It could be height sensor signals however. Do you have the NAV option with the 4x4 display? If so, you can set the display on 4x4 and watch the operation of the wheels. Sometimes a defective sensor or wiring problem will display as either no wheel movement or constant wheel vertical movement.
You can sort of test each height sensor one a time by mounting a curb or something elevated one wheel at a time.
Page 2 of the pdf below from my gallery shows the air suspension wiring related to the block valves. There is more material in my gallery.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...10_p11.pdf2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st May 2012 8:23 pm
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Re: could be the power or ground wires
bbyer wrote:
... Do you have the NAV option with the 4x4 display? If so, you can set the display on 4x4 and watch the operation of the wheels. Sometimes a defective sensor or wiring problem will display as either no wheel movement or constant wheel vertical movement
Yes, i have the 4x4 info screen.
When it happens there is nothing (different) to see. No blinking markers.
I only did notice a few times, when parking the car on the side of the road, that the right front wheel marker (most above) was blinking.
But this gives no fault message. Don't know if this could be related.
The valve block is a new part, so this should be working correct.
I will test the front wheels and check the wiring from the sensors and valve.
Thanks for your pdf's !2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
You might be on to something. The display does not ever show any printed fault message - just vertical wheel movement or the lack of.
In normal operation on a paved road, usually you see virtually no movement, or if there is some, it is very little and tough to notice. If you actually see something as you did, then that is what I would consider a big deal.
This is why I suggest mounting one wheel at a time up on a curb and comparing each of the wheel displays against the others.
When I have a suspension problem, or even when I do not, I will run with the 4x4 display showing just to get an idea of what is normal and what is not. The display can be a good diagnostic tool.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st May 2012 9:32 pm
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Today i drive on a ramp (the one you use to get the car higher for working beneed it) with only the front right wheel.
With the 4x4 info screen on.
Then i get the suspension fault (amber light). Nothing to see on the 4x4 info screen.
Then i reset it and switcht the ramp from front right to front left.
The same suspension fault was reported when driving slow on the ramp.
I did notice there was a bit difference the front heights (live value). More the 10 units.
I did calibrate the front right so the difference in height was less (about 3 units).
Now i don't get the suspension fault when driving on the ramp.
I Thought problem solved, but when i driving in my street over the same bump, i again get the suspension fault.
So something is wrong, or a bad connection or a bad sensor.2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
22nd May 2012 10:57 am
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
I did test further.
I saw the IIDTool can show the front cross-link valve.
This was set to 0% (so closed).
From the moment i drive slow on the ramp (just 1 wheel FR) the cross-link valve is set to 100%.
Then the message comes, suspension fault. (front cross-link valve).
The car was in normal mode but the transferbox was in low. ( i have a manul gearbox )
I tought the cross-link valve may only go open in offroad or rock crowl mode. 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
Try the rear wheels as well and see what the 4x4 display shows and if any error messages show on the display.
I would think that there should not be any error messages on bonging but one never knows. If there was, then the problem is probably something to do with the wiring rather than the sensors as not all four would be defective.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
22nd May 2012 3:29 pm
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
If it's the wiring, why is the front cross-link valve set to open?
This is controled by the air suspension control module.
For some reason the module thinks it must open the front cross-link valve.
What could cause this?2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
The cross link valve is probably the one most significant improvement in air suspension in a long time. It functions in normal day to day driving as well to help improve the ride and vehicle stability. In day to day, its operation is not obvious but it is functioning, or should be. As to if the cross link valve should show as going immediately to 100%, I do not know. It may be that there are only two settings, full open and full closed as that is the way most solenoids operate.
The cross link valve kind of goes back to the days of the hydraulic suspension on the Citroen where I think the linking was front to rear rather than what we have which is also left to right, but front axle and rear axle. I think that it is in low speed driving is where it works best or provides the most benefit.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
The design of the block valve wiring may be that the solenoids are always powered and the the computer controls the ground side.
This is a guess however but if I am correct, then a failure in the ground side cross link wiring that creates a ground would cause the cross link solenoid to open and hence allow air to pass from side to side. In theory it should take some movement of the wiring cable to cause that. Check to see that neither of the cables to the front wheel sensors show signs of being rubbed by a tire. I had that one time; a cable tie came loose and the tyre rubbed thru the outer cable covering. Look at the rears as well.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
22nd May 2012 4:03 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
I have not read the whole thread, but the front corner valve fault is usually caused by a wiring issue on the N/S/F (passenger side, front wheel, of UK cars)
Need to remove the wheelarch liner, and cut open the wiring loom to find it My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Today i did test with the rear wheels. (one side)
The same fault message. Front cross-link valve.
I did notice when i put the TC in low gear, the cross-link valve is set to 100% from the moment i hit the ramp.
When in high gear it stay's on 0% and i don't get the fault.
So it seems when you are in low gear the cross-link valve goes open sooner then in high gear.
Now i think the wire to the cross-link valve or connector is broke and the coil from the valve is not getting the voltage to open.
So i gone check the wiring to the air suspension control module.
Where is the air suspension control module located (LHD) ?
In then technical bulletin it should be on the A pillar behind the instruments.
Btw. the cross-link valve is closed when de-activated (no voltage)2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
Last edited by Black_64 on 23rd May 2012 8:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd May 2012 5:48 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Yes, on a RHD car, its is tucked way up the right hand side of the dashboard.
More likely it is a broken wire in the wheelarch... Very common fault....My D3 Build Thread
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