Member Since: 03 Jul 2009
Location: In Drag
Posts: 831
Disco_Mikey
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Is this the point at which you'd fit the blanking plate (or 2p)?
Then re-attach the pipework and away you go?
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 57 RRS TDV8
BAS Map
D3: Gone but not forgotten
5th Nov 2009 5:56 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
AWD man - Yes, fit it there
legacy4cam wrote:
So, from what I have read, if I have blanked off the EGR valves on my 2005 car, they should not be able to generate the dreaded "engine system fault".
Anything else other than Turbo and fuel filter bring this warning on commonly??
Worried from Lanark.
Tis correct. 99% of the time, EGR failure on pre 07MY will not bring up any warning messgae. Have only seen it once in 4 years
Low fuel pressure will bring up engine system fault. Have you tried fuelling up at different garages, see if it is crap fuel you are getting? Take it you still get a big lack of power until the ignition is cycled? Have you checked all turbo hoses etc?My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: at sea
Posts: 1209
Have I got this right?
If the valves cease to function and are shut at the time of fauilure, I wont have any warning lights and the car will have better performace, assuming its a post 07MY
Irrespective of valve position, if the ECU asks the valve to move, and it doesn't move as expected (closed loop control), then an error code will be generated. On post 07 vehicles the fault lamp will illuminate, but not on earlier vehicles. If it fails shut you shouldn't notice a performance drop, unless the vehicle goes into limp home mode. I'm not sure if an EGR fault would cause limp home mode though. HTHPreviously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
What we need is someone who has the time and capability to design a little plugin module which takes the PWM input signal and translates it to whatever the ECU expects to see from the valve position sensor. I.e. it provides the closed loop feedback necessary to keep the ECU happy and prevent faults being registered. EGR's can then be completely removed and the ports blanked off.
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
You can have that, it's called two new EGR valves & then blank off (on pre 07 models)
On post 07 models, even if you went to all that trouble of making something, it wouldn't do any good as the ecu uses other values to double check the EGR is functioning, like the air mass meter reading less when operating the valves.
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
On pre 07, you can blank them, as no other check is made, other than the desired EGR spindle position & the actual spindle position, this is the same blanked & unblanked.
On post 07, blanking them doesn't work because it double checks the operation, not only of the valve position but also air flow change at the desired EGR operation., thus warning light comes on if you tried to blank them.
HTH
Steve
3rd Mar 2010 12:36 pm
Adrian L
Member Since: 24 Nov 2009
Location: Johannesburg
Posts: 35
Still not getting it.
I used to think I was quite a bright chap. Then I bought a D3.
I bought a 2nd hand 05 model. It has intermittent power loss. Goes like a rocket sometimes and then others I put my foot flat (when trying to gap it through traffic) and nothing happens (Scary). Not sure if this is EGR or not.
How do I know for sure? Having never driven a new D3 I am not sure what its supposed to be like.
Also is there any long term damage if I blank them? and why are there 2? Isn't there only one turbo?
What does the EGR valve actually do?
Also where do I find the turbo hoses to check them?
Rereading this I feel even dumber than I thought. �I will go anywhere, as long as it be forward.� David Livingstone
21st Apr 2010 3:20 pm
1964landyman
Member Since: 21 Jan 2008
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 24
I have just had the same issue with an EGR valve on a January 2007 Disco 3. My local garage has dis-assembled the valve (whilst still in position) and used a chemical to disolve the carbon and clean the valve up. He has has done this on both valves even though only one had failed. Having 'flushed' them out, he has re-assembled and all is fine.
Has anybody any experience as to how effective this is compared with complete replacement? He has saved me money in the short term but I,m not sure if it's a long term solution?
Thanks for any advice.2007 Series 3 HSE
2000 Series 2 ES
1997 Series 1 GS
5th Mar 2011 11:14 am
The_Thinning_Beast
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 99
ridgeback_moor wrote:
Irrespective of valve position, if the ECU asks the valve to move, and it doesn't move as expected (closed loop control), then an error code will be generated. On post 07 vehicles the fault lamp will illuminate, but not on earlier vehicles. If it fails shut you shouldn't notice a performance drop, unless the vehicle goes into limp home mode. I'm not sure if an EGR fault would cause limp home mode though. HTH
I've discovered this! My 2005 HSE has had blanks fitted for the last 30k miles, and I recently got the dreaded 'Engine System Fault' message and the car went into limp mode. Because the EGR's are blanked and my intercooler hose is not split, I assumed it was the turbo actuation arm... Before attempting such a fiddly job on the turbo I took it round the corner to M J Fews to get the codes read. To my surprise they gave me a print out of the codes saying one of my EGR's had jammed and the closed-circuit loop that checks the servo position was reporting an error.
Yesterday I took both EGR's off and checked for damage. One servo (drivers side) was spinning freely without hitting the stops, the other had definite stops limiting rotation to 90 degrees. I dropped 12v over the pins and both motors rotated, but one seemed to turn more than the other. I cut the prongs off both, blanked the EGR at the hot side and re-assembled.
Fault code still there, so it must be the dodgy servo... thought I'd try just unplugging the EGR's - again expecting the dash to light up with more error messages. I'm shocked, but just unplugging them has fixed the warning!
If only I hadn't spent the day scraping knuckles to remove them... and just unplugged them!
(Thanks to RBM and Disco_Mikey for the instructions & photos)
11th Nov 2012 11:00 am
albany23
Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: Constanta
Posts: 26
SteveNorman wrote:
On pre 07, you can blank them, as no other check is made, other than the desired EGR spindle position & the actual spindle position, this is the same blanked & unblanked.
On post 07, blanking them doesn't work because it double checks the operation, not only of the valve position but also air flow change at the desired EGR operation., thus warning light comes on if you tried to blank them.
HTH
Steve
Hi guys,
I noticed an increase in consumption, as high as 19 mpg(around14,6litres/100kms) in city traffic. That is almost 1.5 litres more than usual.
My Disco3 is a Euro 3 12/06 model, with 90,000 kms on-board. Also, a worring drop in performance, and irregular cold start idiling. My service is provided by a LR specialist, with over 20 years of experience in nothing but Rovers( they don't even accept Mini's or Jags). I reside in Romania.
My oil and filter changes are 8000-10000 kms apart, no oil consumption ever, but i am very worried about the EGR's.
I read here about the BAS blanking kit, checked them out and i'm ready to order. Also, i was thinking a BAS remapping, and a intercooler hose replacement.
Any other ideas? I am afraid not to bust anything major. I love my LR and i wanna keep it.
Thanks,
MihaiDiscovery 3, 12/2006, SE, AUTO
Buckingham Blue
EGR Blanking Kit
Fragile Earth
18th Nov 2012 12:42 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
As you have an 06MY, you can blank your valves with no issues
An upgraded intercooler hose is also a wise move, even if yours has not yet split, think of it as preventative maintenance
The irregular cold start idle would worry me though. Potentially the beginning of injector or glow plug issues. If you have a digital multimeter, its straight forward enough to check the glow plugs are working, but for the injectors, you need to have the car hooked up to a diagnostic machine and have the injector compensations checked outMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: Constanta
Posts: 26
Disco_Mikey wrote:
As you have an 06MY, you can blank your valves with no issues
An upgraded intercooler hose is also a wise move, even if yours has not yet split, think of it as preventative maintenance
The irregular cold start idle would worry me though. Potentially the beginning of injector or glow plug issues. If you have a digital multimeter, its straight forward enough to check the glow plugs are working, but for the injectors, you need to have the car hooked up to a diagnostic machine and have the injector compensations checked out
Thanks, Mickey!
Anything involving 'injectors' is worring me! I have not changed my sparkplugs yet(90,000 kms). Mabye that's an quick and cheap fix.
Ill start with the hose, just to eliminate any problems step-by-step. After that, sparkplugs, and then blanks.
I have another weird issue: starting the car, i drive away, auto transmission, the car shifts from 1st to second, low revs, and when i get to the stop sign 20 metres further, i brake. The gearbox changes down, on braking, but the engine revs drop under 900 rpm, the car vibrates as if it's gonna stall, then it settles back to normal idiling. Only on braking from cold. Summer or winter. Been doing that for the past three years now. I changed the gearbox oil and filters, still no fix.
Any ideas?
Btw, should the milage increase worry me?Discovery 3, 12/2006, SE, AUTO
Buckingham Blue
EGR Blanking Kit
Fragile Earth
18th Nov 2012 3:15 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
albany23 wrote:
Thanks, Mickey!
Anything involving 'injectors' is worring me! I have not changed my sparkplugs yet(90,000 kms). Mabye that's an quick and cheap fix.
I would be worried if you were going to replace the spark plugs on your TDV6
Assuming your profile is correct of course, and you actually have a TDV6 My D3 Build Thread
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I have not changed my sparkplugs yet(90,000 kms). Mabye that's an quick and cheap fix.
