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Paradox208
Member Since: 20 May 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 13
  
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| How does the Disco fair after been introduced to salt? |
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Hi All,
I recently purchased a 2008 Disco in pristine condition and I'm thinking of taking it on a family trip to Fraser Island (huge sand island in Aus). Just wondering if i should be concerned about the after affects in regards to rust this may cause, obviously i'd give the underside a good wash once I got off the island. I need some expert advice as i always have the option of hiring a 4WD.
Does the Disco come with rust protection from the factory / should i seek additional protection?
Has anyone noticed any signs of rust after taking their Disco beach driving and giving it a good wash afterward?
Thanks in advance. 
PS. I did search for this before posting but the search facility on this site seems less than useful.
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 22nd Jun 2009 2:34 am |
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DingMark
Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Perth Oz or Erbil, Iraq
Posts: 388
  
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My 3 yr old D3 has spent a goodly portion of its existence in sand + salt water environments. After each trip I drive it up on 4 truck ramps (I'm over 50 and it's less effort to drag out the ramps than to crawl out from under a road-level D3) and let loose with a high-pressure water blaster. There's absolutely no rust to be seen anywhere, so I think the anti-corrosion design is pretty good. I suspect that in the US where salt and sand are used on roads in winter, and it's too cold to wash it out for 4 months, is probably more of a corrosion issue. One reason for using the truck ramps is that it's best to have a good look underneath (preferably before the trip when it's still clean) and see where all the electronic sensors are. Make sure the high-pressure water doesn't hit that.
We'll have more evidence of the propensity to corrosion in another 5 years, but so far I conclude that the D3 is as good as anything in not having corrosion problems.
OTT: I strongly suggest you search some of the sites here and learn what to do (and what not to do) when driving on sand. In our soft sandy beaches, and with my limiting 19" tyres, is's 16psi, "Sand Mode", low range, an most importantly, Traction Stability Control (TSC) "OFF". If stuck, dig out, then put in "Mud&Ruts" and TSC "OFF" for extraction, then sand mode for proceeding. Remember that TSC goes back on if you ever change modes or high range. If you leave TSC on, the D3 quickly concludes it's unstable (of course, its on sand) and even my V8 won't get above idle. On harder sandy slopes the D3's low centre of gravity can lead to some wild things being done safely  Also, don't be surprised if the stiff mud flaps don't break off in deep sand. I've replaced with flaps. Jim Dowell - D4 HSE TDi, 12,000 hydraulic winch & hidden winch mount, MTRs, TyreDog, Traxide 2 x aux battery system, fixed air compressor, Dolium roof rack, MitchHitch.
RIP 2005 D3 HSE V8 5 seater gold (stolen and torched)
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| 22nd Jun 2009 4:53 am |
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Paradox208
Member Since: 20 May 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 13
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Thanks heaps Jim, that's some really good advice and some really useful info. Your mud flap comment has got me a little worried but i guess that's an easy fix should that happen. 
Cheers-
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| 22nd Jun 2009 5:03 am |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26702
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My experience on a 4 year UK vehicle, over a high mileage is that the rust protection on the body is excellent. The chassis however could do better. I found that all the exposed edges and welds did develop surface rust, especially visible if you were to remove the tow electrics cover.
Whilst it was no not deep crumbly rust that older Land Rover chassis suffer from, I would say in 10 years time it could be. If I was going to take my car into the sea, I would get it properly wax oiled, and invest in a proper under body wash system.
Like said in the first post, in the winter in the UK we get a lot of salt on the roads, and yes it is too cold to hose it off after every journey.
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| 22nd Jun 2009 10:29 am |
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2DISCO3ORNOT
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: at sea
Posts: 1209
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I had my 08 up on the alignment ramps for the first time on Friday, I have a shed load of surface rust, and can only assume that its spent a long winter on salt roads somewhere up north, Im going to pressure wash and see what sort of treatments are on the market, maybe I can halt the process! 
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| 22nd Jun 2009 10:35 am |
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Mr Andrew
Member Since: 28 May 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 128
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Paradox,
Fraser island advice - you don't need to drive through salt water, so avoid it.
Once off the island, there's a couple of very sophisticated washing places. The one that I liked (and did a brilliant underbody wash) has about 10 misting type sprays, mounted on about 10 long pipes that span the car underneath from l-r. You drive over them, then the machine pumps water whilst rotating the pipes front to rear repeatedly.
Upshot - drive sensibly, wash promptly, no drama at all. You will have a blast, enjoy!
Last edited by Mr Andrew on 23rd Jun 2009 12:53 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 22nd Jun 2009 1:06 pm |
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Paradox208
Member Since: 20 May 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 13
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Unnecessary quote removed
Hi Andrew, as this will be my first trip to Fraser it had me wondering if the salt water could be avoided.
Thanks all for your feedback/advice.
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| 23rd Jun 2009 12:15 am |
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Mr Andrew
Member Since: 28 May 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 128
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Yes, salt water can be avoided. You are most likely to get onto the island down at the Rainbow beach end (cheapest) and then drive up the east side of the island, on the beach. You will have to drive over some water running over th beach at a few places, but this will be fesh water running out to sea.
If you really set your mind to it, I guess you could find some place where you have to drive down on the seaward side of rocks. personally, I take care to avoid such threatening situations, and I would encourage you to do the same.
Fraser Island is a peice of cake in a capable vehicle like a D3, just be sure to sensible lower your tyre pressures. I think I used about 16-20psi (more than I normally would at stockon) given the faster driving on the beach. Don't attempt it at 40psi - as helpfully suggested by a the car hire guys who rented a LWB Crusier to one of my mates. He called me up on mobile and said he hated Fraser, too much hard work, and the POS Crusier would get bogged everywhere. Funnily enough, once I told him to let the tyres down (he borrowed a guage off another guy) he said the trip was transformed...
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| 23rd Jun 2009 1:00 pm |
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Paradox208
Member Since: 20 May 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 13
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Thanks again Andrew, i'll defiantly be deflating the tyre pressure. I'll start with 18psi and go from there.
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| 24th Jun 2009 12:38 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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And switch off the DSC.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 24th Jun 2009 12:49 am |
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