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Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals
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Iain G
 


Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 GS Manual Santorini BlackDiscovery 3
Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals

Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals

Author: Iain Grant
Date: 11/3/2010
Description: Replacement of input shaft seal, front output flange seal, rear output flange seal on DD295 Transfer Box (AKA Case). Incorporates locking centre differential. Manual vehicle covered.
Time: 8 hours.
Difficulty: Moderate / Hard. Requires 2 people at some stages.
Special Tools required: Ramp or pit to allow access to under centre of vehicle. Improvised, made up, or purchased seal seating tools – see further sections for details. Torx sockets no.s 10 and 12. A quality ¼” ratchet with a handle as short as possible, preferably 4” (think I used a Britool one – needs fine notches due to limited access).
Useful part numbers:
Input shaft seal: IZB00030 – £10.95
Front output flange seal: IZB00040 - £8.94
Rear output flange seal: IZB00050 - £7.30
Front output flange cir-clip: ??
Rear output flange cir-clip: ??
Casings mating face sealant: LR STC50550 / Loctite 5900
Transfer Box oil: IYK500010 (1.5L required) - £18/Litre



Transfer Box Removal / Replacement

No pictures for this part of the procedure. Removing the box is fairly straght forward, the most awkward bit was removing the transfer to gearbox bolts, where pictures wouldn't really be of any use.

1. Raise vehicle and apply EPB/ chock wheels.

2. Drain oil.
Remove the lower plug using an 8mm Allen key and drain the box oil.

3. Remove cover.
Remove the fibreglass under tray, which covers the underside of the transmission. 6 Bolts holding the tray, M6 bolts with 10mm heads.

4. Disconnect rear prop shaft.
Mark alignment with centre punch and remove 6 bolts holding prop shaft to transfer box. Torx socket no. 12 required, access to all bolts is good. A bit of force / levering is required to pull prop shaft away.

5. Disconnect front prop shaft.
Mark alignment with centre punch and remove 6 bolts holding prop shaft to transfer box. Torx socket no. 10 required, access to all bolts is OK, I had to hammer my socket on to start with due to the diameter of my socket. Once loose I reverted to a 8mm socket which is a snug fit and makes removing the bolts a lot easier. Again a bit of force / levering is required to pull prop shaft away.

6. Remove transmission support / cross member.
Position a jack underneath the transmission fairly close to the engine. This allows more room to work, as the jack will be there for the remainder of the job. Using the jack take up the weight off the rear support.

Remove the bolt running through the centre of the transmission mount. Loosen and remove the four bolts holding the support in place. 18mm spanner required on the nuts, 15mm socket head ratchet used on the bolts. I found these bolts awkward to remove due to the build up of dirt and corrosion where they run through the support. The bolts on the NS had been inserted from the rear not the front, meaning they had to be manipulated round the exhaust rubber. Needless to say when I put them back in they went in from the front. Remove the mount from the transfer box (4 bolts).

Drop the jack down slowly a few inches to allow access to the top of the box. Make sure the front prop is out of the way so not to compress it unduly.

7. Disconnect wiring.
I didn’t disconnect the battery before this; my view is that if the vehicle is ‘asleep’ then there is less risk of causing faults disconnecting 2 motors and a sensor than removing supply to the whole vehicle. Personal choice here.

Remove 3 plugs from rear of transfer box using a small screwdriver, and then undo the metal cable support(s) from the rear of the box. You will then be able to follow the wiring up with your hand and feel for a plastic clip. Pull this up firmly to release it. Tuck the wiring out of the way towards the front of the vehicle.

8. Disconnect breather.
The breather is connected via a push fit system. Simply locate the breather and use your fingers to push on the collar while pulling the pipe with the rest of your hand. Plug the hole.

9. Remove / loosen transfer box bolts.
There are 8 bolts holding the transfer box to the transmission casing. Most of these are awkward to get at. I recommend removing the highest 2 bolts first, after this it gets easier. Access is very poor, I utilised my short ¼” ratchet here and then placed a strap over the handle and got an assistant to give it a yank to slacken it off. These bolts remain tight for a few turns and at best you can only get an inch of movement out of the ratchet each time, patience is key here. Similarly remove another 4 bolts leaving 2 bolts opposite each other that you can access fairly easily. Access is somewhat hindered on the left due to the front prop shaft, so I chose the lowest bolt down the LHS and then the 3rd bolt up the RHS.

10. Remove the transfer box.
With another temporary jack taking the weight of the transfer box remove the remaining bolts. To avoid the risk of cracking the casing, remove these a little at a time. Get an assistant to steady the box while doing this. Once these bolts are removed push the rear prop shaft up as far as it will go - it will always get in the way when removing the box so best endeavours here. Holding the weight of the box (40kg) remove the supporting jack and guide the box rearwards off the gearbox splined shaft and lower it to the ground.

11. Refitting.
Refitting the transfer box is the reverse process as removing. Tighten transfer box to gearbox bolts to 45Nm, rubber mount bolts tighten to 60Nm. Re-fill with oil until level with bottom of fill hole.


Seal Replacement

According to the land Rover instructions I have viewed (in Spanish), it seems to indicate fitting the input seal ‘dry’, i.e. with no oil / grease to aid fitting.

1. Replacing input seal only – otherwise continue on step 2.
The replacement of the input seal is possible without splitting the transfer box casing. A Land Rover tool is available for removing the seal (p/no. 303-903). Also the method of screwing one or two large self-tapping screws into the seal face should provide enough anchoring points to pull the seal outwards. Additionally distorting the seal somewhat will help. There is clearance of around 15mm behind the seal before you risk coming into contact with the shaft bearings. From looking at pictures of the LR tool it appears to pierce the seal face in order to pull it out.



To replace a new seal first ensure all contact surfaces are clean of debris, the Land Rover tool (p/no. 308-598) will be required or similar tool made up to the dimensions shown below. Using the tool, and ensuring it is kept level at all times press the new seal into place as far as the tool will allow.



2. Remove motor.
Undo the four torx bolts (size no. 10). Use an compressed air line to clear the holes of debris.

3. Remove rear housing.
Undo 17 torx head bolts located around the edge of the casing, leaving 2 in place as indicated in the picture below.



Again using an air line clear the holes of debris. With the box positioned rear side uppermost, remove the final 2 torx bolts, a little at a time. Using a soft mallet separate and lift off the rear housing. Recover the magnet utilised for gathering worn metallic parts - this will fall out as you raise the housing. Clean this of course.

4. Replace the rear output flange seal.
With the help of an assistant compress the cir-clip (using several small flat bladed screw drivers). Using a soft mallet, knock the flange outwards.

(picture shows front flange here)


Remove and discard the old cir-clip, fit new cir-clip. Pull out and discard the old seal. Clean mating surfaces. Using the Land Rover tool (p/no, 308-637) or similar tool made up to the dimensions shown below press the new seal into place as far as the tool allows.



Re-fit the flange, the chamfered edge of the internal bearing provides the squeezing force to close the cir-clip. Ensure the cir-clip fully expands.

5. Transfer internal parts.
In order to work on the front casing seals the internal parts need to be transferred section by section to the rear housing. This is less daunting than it first appears with no nasty surprises. There is however roller bearings used multiple times in the main shaft so a little rotating helps when fitting the components together.

First locate the spacer over the output flange. Then lift off and transfer the differential.




Remove the chain and front output shaft chain ring, noting its orientation (and the fact it will have to be turned over as with the other components). The chain has some dark links on one side, which should face the front casing when re-assembled. Next remove the clutch assembly from the main shaft; this comes up with the chain ring if I remember correctly.



Place the clutch plates into the carriage. Use your fingers here to gently move the individual discs rather than using force, it took me a few goes before it dropped in snugly for some reason. Open up the clutch levers with your hands so they sit either side of the actuator.





Place the chain and chain wheel into their approximate location (dark links should now face upwards).



Fit the oil pump on top of the main shaft chain wheel, then the 2 special washers found at the bottom of the main (input) shaft. The main shaft centre can now be inserted down the middle of the assembled components in the rear casing, rotating and wiggling it to guide it into the roller bearings.

6. Replace the front output flange seal.
Same procedure as step 4. The front output flange and seals are all slightly smaller in size compared to the rear output flange.

7. Replace the input shaft seal.
Knock out the old seal taking care not to damage the mating surfaces. Clean all contact surfaces.



The Land Rover tool (p/no. 308-598), or similar tool made up to the dimensions shown in step 1 should be used to press in the new seal, ensuring it is kept level at all times. Push / tap the seal in as far as the tool will allow.

8. Re-assemble casing.
Clear mating surfaces of any remaining sealant. Fit magnet into holding lugs on rear housing. Again move the front output chain wheel into its approximate position. Rotate the oil pump so that plastic pick-up sits into the gap provided at the bottom of the casing.



There is nothing holding this pipe firmly in place until the housings are assembled. If it gets disturbed while fitting the front housing and moves out of position, the consequences for the transfer box would be catastrophic. Even if the pipe still remained in a low position to pick up oil, the pipe would probably come in to contact with the chain causing major damage to the rubber pipe – you have been warned.

Apply a 2mm bead of sealant to the mating surface and fit the front housing on to the rear housing, aligning the front output flange into the chain wheel first, then the input shaft through the input shaft bearing then finally making sure the oil pickup pipe is still in its correct place. Tighten the two indicated bolts to 35Nm. Fit the remaining bolts and tighten to 35Nm. Re-fit the motor after cleaning the seal, tighten bolts to 25Nm.[/img]

Re-fit transfer box to vehicle as per the removal / fitting instructions.

Misceleaneous pictures

Oil from front output shaft before carrying out work:


Cross section of transfer case:
 

Last edited by Iain G on 11th Mar 2010 10:37 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #61913711th Mar 2010 4:57 pm
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Iain G
 


Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 GS Manual Santorini BlackDiscovery 3

Just putting the guide out for the first time, I know there will be some errors to start with. I will ammend the tool drawings to show the dimensions more clearly when I get chance.

Iain
  
Post #61913911th Mar 2010 4:59 pm
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Martin
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Wales 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

Excellent work Iain, thanks Thumbs Up
 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know! 
 
Post #61914611th Mar 2010 5:01 pm
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amnesia51
 


Member Since: 11 Mar 2010
Location: REIMS
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France 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3
Replacement Transfer BOX

Hello,

I'm french and i have read all your post. My disco 3 have a problem with his transfert box. land rover told me that il would replace it because there is a problem with the inside motors. They lock the box when the wheels are turned on maximum.

For the moment i have not the answer if i need to replace all the transfert box or only the inside motors.

I have called a french mechanic who sell spare parts. He told me that it would be necessary to connect the disco to a computer for programm of the new transfert box. What do you think about that?

Up to you, is it possible that an electronic problem occured and provoked a bad functioning of the box?

I do'nt speak English very well but I hope that you can understand me.

Looking forward to your answers I thank you
  
Post #61935911th Mar 2010 8:58 pm
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amnesia51
 


Member Since: 11 Mar 2010
Location: REIMS
Posts: 8

France 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

I've forgot, do you have an idea of the price of a new transfert box and the land rover reference of this part?

Thank you
  
Post #61936911th Mar 2010 9:05 pm
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Iain G
 


Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 GS Manual Santorini BlackDiscovery 3

Not entirely sure what you mean by 'locking the box', perhaps you could explain further. There is no motor inside the box.

The one motor bolted on to the side of the box operates both the high/low range change and the differential locking. The externaly mounted solenoid switches between the two functions.

Iain
  
Post #61940911th Mar 2010 9:41 pm
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DiscoDunc
 


Member Since: 08 May 2006
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England 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Aintree GreenDiscovery 4

Excellant guide, well done Thumbs Up - now i'm even more pleased I got the dealer to do it Thumbs Up
 Duncan
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Post #61941811th Mar 2010 9:46 pm
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Chicken Duck
 


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Vatican 

f Censored in ace mate gald you did it! I remember this http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic47300.html?highlight=transfer Guess you showed em. Whistle
  
Post #61942711th Mar 2010 9:54 pm
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PaulP
 


Member Since: 04 May 2007
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Spain 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

Fantastic write-up Iain....well done for fixing it yourself, and thanks for taking (what I imagine was a lot) of time for sharing it all with us.

Thanks Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG 
 
Post #61946411th Mar 2010 10:54 pm
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amnesia51
 


Member Since: 11 Mar 2010
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France 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Thank you very much

I will send you a pm
  
Post #61955112th Mar 2010 9:11 am
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Iain G
 


Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 GS Manual Santorini BlackDiscovery 3

Amnesia, In relation to your PM where you state your diff is locking for no reason. I would rather post a reply in a visible topic as it allows other peoples input (I am no expert) and may be of use to others in the future. Hope you agree Thumbs Up .

How do you know the centre diff is locking? Do you have the display showing it on the centre dashboard screen?
It would only be apparent otherwise when negotiating corners and I suppose would be very dangerous if cornering at high speed.

If it is thought to be an internal transfer box fault, this could be tested by removing the wiring plug to the motor. I don't think this would show any error codes that would stop you testing the vehicle and would allow you to see if the problem stops (the solenoid is actuated to make the motor control the diff lock, solenoid de-energised means motor is used to select high / low range).

If the problem goes away then you have an electronic fault. The instances where the centre diff lock should operate are when the vehicle detects different speeds on the rear ABS sensors compared to the front ABS sensors. The allowed deviance will depend on vehicle speed and steering position. Has the steering position sensor been calibrated? ABS sensors all ok?


Iain
  
Post #61986012th Mar 2010 6:38 pm
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cleppard
 


Member Since: 06 Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
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Canada 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Java BlackLR3

Mine is leaking too through the front output seal. This started after the transfer case fluid was changed, I noticed at the weekend and checked the fluid level yesterday and it took 150-200 ml to top-up the fluid with is about 10-13% of the total fulid that should be in there. I dont know how long it has been leaking but possibly upto 5 months (since i was last under there).

LR here in calgary have quoted around 500 gbp to change all the seals in the box which i think is pretty reasonable considering the amount of time involved.
   
Post #8242269th Aug 2011 4:58 pm
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Kev91
 


Member Since: 08 Oct 2012
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Sorry to bring an old thread back to life.

I have a leaking front output seal on my transfer box. I stripped the box out the car myself and had dropped it in to my local indi to have them change the seals.

I got a call today to say that there was large amount of metals shavings on the magnets. They have ask me if I want them to strip it further to investigate.

Looking to see if anybody who has opened there transfer box up, had much on the magnets or am I possibly looking at a serious issue.

Thanks
Kev
  
Post #114388814th Aug 2013 5:51 pm
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H16UUP
 


Member Since: 01 Dec 2012
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United Kingdom 

This is my rear diff drain plug Kev, after 53k miles. My transfer box drain plug had about half this amount on it.

Hope this helps Thumbs Up

  
Post #114670721st Aug 2013 10:54 pm
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CUCO
 


Member Since: 26 May 2011
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Unnecessary quote removed

You have a magnetic transfer drain plug????
  
Post #114694722nd Aug 2013 5:06 pm
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