Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
Disco_Mikey I believe has some oil pumps from Citroen (same part). Or you could pay an extortionate price from a LR dealer. I'm really glad I got mine from Nick at Yeovil when it was about £ 80. odd.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
20th Jun 2016 10:57 am
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 110
mickemic wrote:
Just got an email from Ian at AF, and they don't sell the oil pump. Anyone else who do? It is still more or less critical to change it, right?
I found one on ebay, but I'd prefer to buy it from someone here.
I bought mine from ebay, whan i was in UK lately.
But u can buy directly from Citroen sweden i guess... part no: 1001G2 In norway, its about 2400 NOK for that pump. Shouldnt be more expensive in sweden
20th Jun 2016 11:01 am
mickemic
Member Since: 20 Jun 2016
Location: Gävleborg
Posts: 16
Thanks! It's almost twice the ebay price, though, but I'll look into it.
20th Jun 2016 11:05 am
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 110
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Honiton
Posts: 12
little embarrassing but I am having a problem with replacing the timing belt on my RRS 2.7. I've done everything according to this how-to, decided to opt for the paint blob instead of the crankshaft locking kit. Absolutely nothing has moved, blobs of paint are all lining up perfectly. However this morning I went to turn the engine manually, clockwise, and after a few wrench turns I hit a wall. I am assuming the worst, that for some reason the timing has been lost somewhere along the way. Can anyone give me some advice? Thx.
I have posted this on the RRS forum, but thought it best I wrote directly on the how-to in case more people can come to my aid
13th Oct 2016 10:55 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 54
Hi. Not to worry. In line with what Disco Mikey just wrote you do need to lock the crankshaft by removing the startmotor. Lock the camshafts, the pins should be properly inserted. When both camshafts are locked and with start motor removed the crankshaft locking pin should be placed in the first timing hole (there are several). Then install the belt and tensioner, put the belt on to the right cam wheel and while keeping its notches pressed into the cam sprockets turn the right cam wheel Counter Clock Wise. Then turn the left cam wheel fully clock wise (as far as the pin let you) and apply the timing belt onto the left cam wheel sprockets. While holding the belt turn the cam wheel CCW and guide the belt over the tensioning wheel. In this way you remove unwanted slack from the belt. Now fasten the tensioner so the arrow is well into its window. Now fasten the cam wheel bolts, remove cam pins and crankshaft locking pin and turn the belt 2 full turns and place 3 locking pins. When these fit you are good to go.
13th Oct 2016 12:04 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
I've got a kit if you need it save buying it,did you undo the main centre crank bolt and did you lock the cams with drill bits or pins.
If you didn't touch the main crank bolt which you shouldnt of unless doing oil pump and you didn't lock your cams then the cams will be your issue.
Where in Devon are you. Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
IID Pro MV License - D3/4 RRS - Enabling, Updates,Transmission flushing.
Mobile or workshop,PM for details.
Last edited by woody32 on 13th Oct 2016 1:18 pm. Edited 1 time in total
13th Oct 2016 12:09 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Are you using a big wrench?
Obviously the compression stops it turning easily at certain points.
If you manage to turn it several revs then recheck the tensioner is still alligned
13th Oct 2016 12:27 pm
tanloverluke
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Honiton
Posts: 12
Mikey I see you replied on the RRS forum but I'll keep the discussion running here on the main timing belt thread. In response to your question "Did you mark the crank AND lock the cams? EDIT: does it come to a "hard" stop, or are you fighting against the engine compression? Let's just make sure"
I marked the crank and this hasn't moved, I didn't touch the main crank bolt, plus I locked the cams with locking pins and the cams/pins didn't move, this is what is very strange. Nothing has moved. The only thing I can think of it that when I undid the cam bolts (with the locking pins in place) the cams may have moved, but nothing that I noticed.
when I started to turn the engine it was a dead stop after several wrench turns, I did notice some engine compression before this and found it a bit tougher to turn, but then hit a wall.
I do have the locking kit, this came with the timing belts, so I'll go ahead and remove the starter motor to lock the crankshaft.
woody32 I'm in Honiton, whereabouts are you?
Last edited by tanloverluke on 13th Oct 2016 1:03 pm. Edited 2 times in total
13th Oct 2016 12:50 pm
tanloverluke
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Honiton
Posts: 12
Pete K wrote:
Are you using a big wrench?
Obviously the compression stops it turning easily at certain points.
If you manage to turn it several revs then recheck the tensioner is still alligned
Yep big wrench and just tried to give it some welly now, but it's definitely come to a stop. Won't budge. Also checked the tensioner and it's still aligned perfectly.
13th Oct 2016 1:02 pm
Glenn of Belgium
Member Since: 29 Jul 2013
Location: Zeebrugge
Posts: 108
Did You do any other works on the engine besides the timing belt, that can block the engine?
Dit the camshaft locking pins fully came out without breaking into their holes?
Is the engine in Neutral, unclutched?
It is maybe basic .... but we are only human
13th Oct 2016 1:50 pm
tanloverluke
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Honiton
Posts: 12
dutchviking wrote:
Hi. Not to worry. In line with what Disco Mikey just wrote you do need to lock the crankshaft by removing the startmotor. Lock the camshafts, the pins should be properly inserted. When both camshafts are locked and with start motor removed the crankshaft locking pin should be placed in the first timing hole (there are several). Then install the belt and tensioner, put the belt on to the right cam wheel and while keeping its notches pressed into the cam sprockets turn the right cam wheel Counter Clock Wise. Then turn the left cam wheel fully clock wise (as far as the pin let you) and apply the timing belt onto the left cam wheel sprockets. While holding the belt turn the cam wheel CCW and guide the belt over the tensioning wheel. In this way you remove unwanted slack from the belt. Now fasten the tensioner so the arrow is well into its window. Now fasten the cam wheel bolts, remove cam pins and crankshaft locking pin and turn the belt 2 full turns and place 3 locking pins. When these fit you are good to go.
Thanks dutchviking! I started with placing the belt on the crank, then going anti-clockwise. Just a thought, if my cams are the source of the problem, how do I ensure that they are correctly re-timed (or re-synced) to the crank? At the moment I'm assuming that as my crankshaft didn't move, instead it was the cam(s). Thx
13th Oct 2016 1:52 pm
tanloverluke
Member Since: 28 Jun 2013
Location: Honiton
Posts: 12
Glenn of Belgium wrote:
Did You do any other works on the engine besides the timing belt, that can block the engine?
Dit the camshaft locking pins fully came out without breaking into their holes?
Is the engine in Neutral, unclutched?
It is maybe basic .... but we are only human
no other work whatsoever and I turned the crank when the car was in neutral. The locking pins came out fine, the right one was easy to pull out whilst the left one was a little tight though not problematic to remove. I'm off to pics up the son soon and then on my back to remove the starter
13th Oct 2016 1:59 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
THere is a grommet above the starter where the tool goes.
You will probably have to file the tool down to fit it
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Or you could pay an extortionate price from a LR dealer. I'm really glad I got mine from Nick at Yeovil when it was about £ 80. odd.
