Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26702
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| Changed all 4 air suspension/damper units today... |
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And the difference is remarkable!
I took my D3 to Morocco last year, and have had a bad ride ever since. Despite the dealer changing a shocker, the car was fidgety, and felt every bump. It was not particularly bouncy over large bumps, but small bumps really seemed to upset it, and there was a fair bit of steering shake over small bumps.
Now it has 100% restored its magic carpet ride 8) The old units felt ok when they were extended and compressed by hand, but the lower bushes were obviously past their best, with the rubber creeping out of the side of the metal casing. I'm sure there is a lot more technology to dampers that just providing resistance to compression/extension. My old units easily passed the bounce test, so there must be some worn internal valves in the dampers that deal with small rapid movements.
The new units were purchased from a forum member, they came off a zero mileage write off, so were as good as new.
The job is not too difficult. Its heavy work and needs careful jacking and use of stands. The bolts needed a good soaking with WD40. The bottom fixings are very tight indeed, and will need a breaker bar.
De-pressurise the system before removing any of the bottom bolts. You can use an Autologic, or Faultmate, or IDS to do this, but I just loosened the Voss connector on the top of each suspension unit, and waited for it to stop hissing!
The air connectors are easy on the rears, but access is tricky at the front. I removed the plate that sits on top of the 3 top mounting studs, and holds the heatshield. It made access to undo the air connector easier.
To remove the top bolts, an angled 15mm ratchet spanner would be helpful, although I did it with a straight ratchet spanner today.
When putting it all back, I found it easier to connect the voss air connector before fully pushing the suspension unit up into its seat. A small bottle jack is useful here to support the unit whilst you start the thread. You can tighten the air connectors up before carefully pushing the unit up into its mounting.
When you have finished, the car will be right down on its bump stops. It took about 5 minutes with the engine running to re-pressurise the system, and get to normal height.
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 27th May 2011 6:07 pm |
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StaticMotion
Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: Hoose
Posts: 714
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Cool, I'm hoping mine don't go but if they do I'll be bookmarking this post for fixing them 
If you don't mind me asking are they expensive?
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| 27th May 2011 6:11 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26702
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New from the dealer I suppose they will be. I got a good deal on some used units.
You can get a full set of 4 Koni FSD dampers for the D3 for £595.
If these units had not come up for sale, I was going to fit the Koni dampers. Obviously there would be more work involved to strip the units to fit new dampers, but I don't think its rocket science.
My car has done 67k miles btw!
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| 27th May 2011 6:14 pm |
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StaticMotion
Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: Hoose
Posts: 714
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Thanks, mine is on 75k now and thankfully all still running well unless the more times I say that the more likely it is to explode. Although at some point somethings got to give  so I read every technical replacement post and add to the "it's going to happen at some point" bookmark folder.
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| 27th May 2011 6:18 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26702
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TBH, I think my car is not a good yard stick to measure D3 suspension life. It got a proper hammering in Morocco. Endless miles of rocks, and corrugations, in heat over 50 degrees C.
My last D3 did not do as much hard work, and was on 126k when I sold it. The dampers were fine.
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| 27th May 2011 6:21 pm |
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StaticMotion
Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: Hoose
Posts: 714
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well I'm new to the whole overlanding bit but that's what I'm looking to get into. Over the next year I'm going to start modifying and preparing it for that then myself and SWMBO will look to going out on a trip or two.
Other than courses at work and little bits here and there not really done a huge amount of personal playing off road as yet. So I'll soon need a lot of the wonderful repair/rebuild posts
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| 27th May 2011 6:29 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26702
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Well, if you ever get the chance, go for it. Morocco is fantastic, but I would upgrade the dampers before you go.
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| 27th May 2011 6:33 pm |
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StaticMotion
Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: Hoose
Posts: 714
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Yeah we were looking at all the images etc of Morocco trips it looks brilliant we'll have to create a list of where we want to go then try tick em off
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| 27th May 2011 6:35 pm |
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zxnick2009
Member Since: 07 Feb 2010
Location: Cleethorpes
Posts: 73
 
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I did my rears last weekend. Breaker bar, 15mm hinged ratchet spanner and bottle jacks worked a treat for me too. Bit of a fiddly job but straightforward 2010 D4 XS family car
200Tdi 90 being rebuilt - toy
ZZR1100 - toy when I was 21
Elddis 556 Caravan - toy now I am 40!!
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| 27th May 2011 8:39 pm |
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Windy Corner
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: South Leicestershire
Posts: 484
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Gareth,
Thanks for the write-up, I am about to do this
Did you have to remove the wheel arch liners ? I have had a quick look at the front (looks the worst out of front/rear) and it all looks very tight
Thanks
Rik Discovery 4 HSE SDV6 Baltic Blue
Discovery 3 S TDV6 Zambezi Silver - Now gone........
Leicestershire & Rutland 4x4 Response
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| 6th Mar 2015 11:56 am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
 
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no you don't need to remove the wheel arch liners.
A 15mm ratchet spanner is a must. Pref one with a flexi head. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 6th Mar 2015 12:11 pm |
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Windy Corner
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: South Leicestershire
Posts: 484
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Thanks Ian
Have all the tools, just got to take the plunge 
Rik Discovery 4 HSE SDV6 Baltic Blue
Discovery 3 S TDV6 Zambezi Silver - Now gone........
Leicestershire & Rutland 4x4 Response
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| 6th Mar 2015 4:12 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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You'll be fine, they're really quite easy to change. Just don't remove the VOSS connector from the new struts. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 6th Mar 2015 4:14 pm |
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Windy Corner
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: South Leicestershire
Posts: 484
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And there you go - one throwaway line and I'm reduced to a nervous wreck
Why not ??
Having read other stuff, I was hoping to unscrew the voss connectors and swap them over without having to resort to cutting bits of pipe
Although I may be talking total  as I haven't got around to opening the boxes Dan was kind enough to send, so not sure what a Voss thingy looks like yet.......
Rik Discovery 4 HSE SDV6 Baltic Blue
Discovery 3 S TDV6 Zambezi Silver - Now gone........
Leicestershire & Rutland 4x4 Response
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| 6th Mar 2015 4:43 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Don't panic Mr Mannering!
You wont implode if you undo the voss connector on the new struts, but you don't need to touch them.
With the old voss connector, no need to cut the pipe, simply undo the connector and prise (gently) off the brass collet and the old connector will come off. you just insert the clean pipe into the new voss connector once the strut is installed.
If you still have my number, give me a call if you do get stuck. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 6th Mar 2015 4:53 pm |
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