Member Since: 11 Nov 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 1387
Traxide
I know the two batteries remain connected when the engine isn't running with the Traxide split charge system. Can anybody tell me if their is some device to stop a faulty or very old Aux battery from draining the main cranking battery if the car isn't used for a while. Thank's
19th Sep 2011 1:08 pm
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50936
There is a control unit that prevents this issue 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
19th Sep 2011 1:11 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi Disco Duck, and as DG posted, the SC80-LR isolator is there to protect either battery should the other fail.
The way the SC80-LR works is that it connects the batteries together when the motor is started and then once the motor is turned off, the batteries will remain connected until the common voltage of the paralleled batteries reaches 12v.
If, for what ever reason, the batteries get down to 12v, the isolator then disconnects the batteries.
If the batteries were connected together and the auxiliary battery was faulty and was self discharging, this would also discharge the cranking battery but once the voltage dropped to 12v, the batteries would be separated and while the auxiliary battery will continue to discharge, the cranking battery will remain at 12v.
A battery at 12v is at 50% of it’s capacity and is heaps for starting even the most cantankerous motor.
Now if it’s the cranking battery that is faulty and causing the discharging, the reverse happens with the auxiliary battery being isolated while it still holds 50% of it’s capacity.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
If the main "cranking battery" drains below its ability to start will the aux battery take over and still start the engine?
I want to fit a second battery as we have RSE in the D3 and far too often the kids drain the battery and we then need a jump start
I have no plans to add any additional "accessories" or winches etc. I just want to know the car will start
Cheers,
Andy.2022MY Defender 110 D250 HSE X Dynamic, Gondwana with options!
2015 Range Rover 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography, Indus Silver, Black Pack
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Gone: 2013 Jaguar XKR Convertible, Italian Racing Red😢
Gone: 2008 Disco 3 HSE, Hybrid Tv + Retro-fit RSE System & DVD
Gone: 2010 FFRR TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE & DVD, Stornoway Grey
26th Sep 2011 9:32 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26705
I think it was Wiggs who added a second connection to his Traxide to allow a 'jump' from the auxilliary. To connect the two together was as simple as swapping over a connector in the spare battery box.
Normally I read posts carefully and try to avoid asking stupid questions but for some reason I'm not getting it with this one
I see a red top as a second battery which I assume is charged by the Traxide and normally to power aux equipment but why the second connector? Is it not possible for the second battery to "kick in" if the first battery doesn't have the juice to crank the engine? I thought that when the ignition is turned on the kit connects the two batteries but I guess I am wrong
If the only way to get a second battery to "take over" should the first one fail involves "popping" the bonnet and switching a cable or two SWMBO wont be happy and renders the project a waiste of time I need an automatic and seemless solution or I'll have to stick with the battery pack
I think I need further help and clarification from the experts here please
Many Thanks,
Andy.2022MY Defender 110 D250 HSE X Dynamic, Gondwana with options!
2015 Range Rover 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography, Indus Silver, Black Pack
Gone:Disco 4 HSE Luxury, Firenze Red, Ebony/Ivory
Gone:2006 FFRR TD6 Autobiography, Black
Gone: 2013 Jaguar XKR Convertible, Italian Racing Red😢
Gone: 2008 Disco 3 HSE, Hybrid Tv + Retro-fit RSE System & DVD
Gone: 2010 FFRR TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE & DVD, Stornoway Grey
27th Sep 2011 10:30 pm
ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
Ajay
Don't know anything about Traxide, but the National Luna Split charge is higly regarded and very simple to install.
It would appear to do everything you require, and has a controller that lets you monitor both batteries and connect them or switch between them as required.
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27th Sep 2011 10:46 pm
Chicken Duck
Member Since: 11 Nov 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 1387
I've got T-max one which has similar controll on dash showing charge/charging info on both batteries and option to manualy link the two
27th Sep 2011 10:51 pm
ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
Alternatively get a big Oydessy battery. Your kids will be going some to drain that. Had it as a single battery on a D1 used heavily for winching and marshalling. Nothing drained it, ever.
Could leave it for weeks in winter and it would start the car on first turn. The winch burnt out but the battery was still going strong Tony
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27th Sep 2011 11:00 pm
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50936
I've had Traxide for over a year and it has never let me down even running fridges and gadgets for days ...if you have it set up with some advanced common sense then you run all of the kids stuff off the auxiliary and this will never interfere with the main battery in the first place.
Aside from the fail safes, the primary beauty of the system for me was that it is completely specific to the D3 \ 4 in terms of set up and was a complete doddle to install.21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
DG - my problem is not that straight forward, the factory RSE runs off the main battery and because my 6 year old is far too clever he just climbs into the front and turns on the factory AV system and even when it switches itself off to preserve battery life, he just turns it and which ever screen and dvd he wants back on again so in the end there isn't enough power to crank the engine
I see the T-Max Kit can be found for around £80 but the Nationa Luna kit seems to be three times the price and from memory so is the Traxide kit so are they really worth the extra dosh for what I want
Andy2022MY Defender 110 D250 HSE X Dynamic, Gondwana with options!
2015 Range Rover 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography, Indus Silver, Black Pack
Gone:Disco 4 HSE Luxury, Firenze Red, Ebony/Ivory
Gone:2006 FFRR TD6 Autobiography, Black
Gone: 2013 Jaguar XKR Convertible, Italian Racing Red😢
Gone: 2008 Disco 3 HSE, Hybrid Tv + Retro-fit RSE System & DVD
Gone: 2010 FFRR TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE & DVD, Stornoway Grey
27th Sep 2011 11:32 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi Andy and Disco duck, you pick the type of system depending on what you what to use a dual battery set up for.
If you just want a second battery incase the cranking battery is unable to start your motor, for what ever reason, then any type of isolator will do.
This is not what the Traxide ( SC80-LR ) is about.
If you are planning on doing some weekends away, and want to use a bit of battery power, the SC80-LR system is designed to give as much power as possible but still leave your cranking battery with heaps of power to be able to start the motor.
This is basically how the standard SC80 has worked for over 20 years.
The Land Rover version, the SC80-LR, works on the same principal and while they work on the basis of protecting the cranking battery, should the cranking battery fail, they protect the auxiliary battery.
In the case of having to start off the auxiliary battery, all you need is a single jumper lead, connected between the two battery's positive terminals, job done.
If on the other hand, you are after auxiliary power, the SC80-LR gives your D3 or D4 with an under bonnet auxiliary battery set up around 100% more power than any other system, and thats the difference.
To equal this power with any other system in a D3, because of the limited space under the bonnet, you need to either add another auxiliary battery of the same size as the under bonnet auxiliary battery, the cargo area.
Or you don’t both fitting a battery under the bonnet and just fit a single battery, twice the size, in the rear cargo area and in either option, you will also need to run a fair amount of heavy duty cable to charge any battery in the rear cargo area.
That’s the difference. If you only want a second battery just in case your cranking battery fails, any system will do.
If you want the maximum amount of power available while off on trips, without having mount a battery in the rear, the the SC80-LR is the only isolator that can do this and so with a reduced weight, size and costs of putting a battery in the rear, and there are other advantages to the way the SC80-LR works but.
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Ajay(UK) wrote:
DG - my problem is not that straight forward, the factory RSE runs off the main battery and because my 6 year old is far too clever he just climbs into the front and turns on the factory AV system and even when it switches itself off to preserve battery life, he just turns it and which ever screen and dvd he wants back on again so in the end there isn't enough power to crank the engine
Hi again Ajax, again, while the SC80-LR can’t stop your 6 year old flattening your cranking battery. it will take him about twice as long to flatten the battery(s) and even then, in your situation, the SC80-LR will leave the auxiliary battery as the emergency start up battery.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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I need an automatic and seemless solution or I'll have to stick with the battery pack 
and from memory so is the Traxide kit so are they really worth the extra dosh for what I want 
