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croyde
Member Since: 17 Aug 2005
Location: SE England
Posts: 459
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Would have taken me about an hour if I had not routed the wrong plug and had to undo it all 
The  was getting the cables and connectors from the bumper to the rear light past the weights. I used a coathanger and some twine to help. Should I have dropped the spare wheel?
Took me 2 hours in the end, the same that LR were going to charge me for.
What is your secret for the routing then? and did you bother to clip it all in place as in my case it was so tight it did not seem worth the bother.
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 24th Feb 2007 9:37 am |
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90BHP
Member Since: 18 Oct 2006
Location: Half way along the road on the right
Posts: 3706
  
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My Brother did mine. Works for Land Rover. Didn't drop the spare. Routed by hand, all clipped up (-1 clip) and done well inside an hour. So it can be done. Still inside 2 hours think how much dosh you saved.
I made the tea and held the srewdriver.
At next service you still need to get them to tell the car it has a tow bar fitted, as with a heavy trailer or caravan, the ECU will change the way the air suspension responds when the towbar is in use. I thin kthe trailer fog light will only work after this as well - could have made that bit up tho  "To finish first, one first has to finish ...."
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| 24th Feb 2007 10:32 am |
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croyde
Member Since: 17 Aug 2005
Location: SE England
Posts: 459
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Yes this ECU change has been discussed before. Seems strange considering as soon as the trailer electrics are attached the PDC knows that it has to be disabled and the trailer indicator light starts working.
You'd think that if the system is clever enough to work this out, that the air suspension would be capable to deal with the settings for the extra weight.
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| 24th Feb 2007 11:17 am |
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Bonzo
Member Since: 23 Feb 2007
Location: Argyll
Posts: 24
 
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Just to add my tuppence worth to this stream - I'm feeling very pleased with myself. Bought the towbar and electrics from eBay for £250 - all brand new boxed kit. Fitted the electrics on Saturday. It took about an hour and a half, very carefully following the instruction digrams. Some delays due to my own ineptitude, but generally a pretty straightforward and rewarding wee excercise. As others have said, the trickiest part is feeding the leads through the bottom of the bumper. I'm unsure on how you are meant to attach some of the fixings, but it all seems so tight, there's unlikely to be a problem. Well impressed by the quality and simplicity of all the parts. They appear to be well made and it really is a simple case of plug and play. As a matter of interest, what is the purpose of the weights suspended just beside each exhaust tailpipe?
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| 19th Mar 2007 11:02 am |
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MX
Member Since: 04 Mar 2006
Location: Capital of Culture
Posts: 439
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No significant value to add to this thread .....but I was interested to see that earlier, someone tests their removable towbar in the same way as I do - standing on it!!!! I dont feel quite as much of a numpty as I normally do  D3 05 SE (old one)
RRS 08 SE (new one)
formerly mxgeldar7
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| 19th Mar 2007 6:47 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
  
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Bonzo wrote: As a matter of interest, what is the purpose of the weights suspended just beside each exhaust tailpipe?
Dynamic weights. They are mounted on rubber bushes and absorb vibrations. Part of the reason the D3 is so smooooooooooooth.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 19th Mar 2007 10:19 pm |
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Smarticus
Member Since: 01 Jan 2005
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 655
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I fitted the electrics myself this weekend in about 1.5 hours. Froze my poor fingers nearly off (it was a blizzard at times !) and took a few chunks of skin out of hands as well. At least twice during the process I wish I'd paid someone else to do it, but felt pretty pleased with myself in the end. Nearly cried when I couldn't fit the final connectors together, but then realised that there was a grey plastic piece to remove from the connectors already fitted to the vehicle before you plug in the new connectors. And never did manage to put the black plastic locator thingies on the final connectors back into the metal tag thingies they came out of. But hey, stuffed it all back into the inards and shut it all up behind the cover. No one will ever know I was ever in there 
Oh, and those weights. Well there is several theories about them :
1. They were put there by a Landrover Design Engineer who was being paid by weight. The more weight he added to the vehicle the more he got paid. His final shot was to add those weights. He has now retired to an expensive Carribean Island and lives in luxury....
2. They were put there to get in the way of the towing electrics....
3. They were put there to allow D3 (and RRS) owners to speculate in mysterious tones about the significance of them thar weights, and how no other 4x4 has then, etc.....
4. They were put there to act as harmonic dampers to stop the chassis creating a vibration or resonance at certain engine / vehicle speeds....
OK so No. 4 is clearly silly, but any or all of the other 3 could be right .... Disco 4 TDV6HSE
Defender 200TDi CSW
RR Evoque
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| 19th Mar 2007 11:05 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6238
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You can remove the key very easily if you want to, I do remove mine when the towbar is stowed,.
All you do is hit/push the small pin and that will unlatch the lock and then you can remove the key, then just rearm the lock and put the key back in before you refit it.
flack 
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| 20th Mar 2007 12:06 am |
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