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Ade
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: West Lothian
Posts: 950
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Sticking High Beam (Shutter) |
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I'm repeatedly get flashed on the country lanes with people thinking I still got my high beam on, but when parked in front of a wall you can see its just the drivers side hasn't returned back to normal.
Searching the forum it appears to be a common issue with the shutter sticking
My only problem is, has anyone tried to fix this problem on adaptive lights? as the thread/posts that I've read on successful fixes are on non-adaptive versions
Any help would be appreciated
Many thanks
Ade
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1st Nov 2014 9:49 pm |
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Down&Dirty
Member Since: 17 Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere out back
Posts: 1287
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Ade,
I had the same problem,same side
My fix(hopefully not tempting fate here) was to take light off vehicle,remove back cover and bulb,then you can see the shutter,i used a some parker hale Gun oil sprayed in to the cap(of the can) then got a long thin screw driver dipped in the oil then oiled all moving parts with tip of the screw driver,working the parts each time i applied the oil,this was done some 8 months ago and touch wood has been fine ever since
Mark MY24 Defender 90 X-Dynamic HSE
MY18 Disco 5 HSE Santorini Black Now Gone.
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1st Nov 2014 10:29 pm |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
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Hi Ade, I had the same problem, tried the lube fix numerous time with no effect, as you know the adaptives have extra 'mechanics' in the unit which prevents access to the solenoid which is the sticking part. I eventually went down the route of replacing the solenoid from another 'scrap' headlight and its been fine since (over 2 years). The headlight lens has to be removed de-tango style then the adaptive 'cage' removed to allow the solenoid to be taken out. Only way I could get it out was to drill two holes in the rear casing which allowed 'hidden' screws to be removed and the cage came out, I've got pics to show the position of the holes somewhere if you need them, I used the oven method for the lens removal btw
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2nd Nov 2014 9:36 am |
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urhunden
Member Since: 15 Jan 2010
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 775
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What would you recommend when the light from one of the headlamps is brownish dipped. Have changed xenon bulb and no difference.
Would it be possible to convert the full beam bulb to xenon?
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7th Nov 2014 1:58 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
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If you're sure the bulb is ok, (try swapping left to right) try swapping/connecting the whole headlamp units over and see if the problem follows the unit or stays on the same side, that should narrow it down, it may be an earth fault or something to to with the ballast unit but I'm not sure.
In adaptive units the headlamp bulb is used for both dip and high beams and is controlled by the 'sticking shutter'.
There is an additional separate high beam unit which is halogen, reason for this I believe is the headlamp 'flash' function would be slow if it relied on the Xenon feature alone when the headlights are not on, could they be upgraded? Possibly (most folks fit better halogen bulbs to that unit) and I'm sure someone here will know more than me and be along soon!
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7th Nov 2014 9:04 am |
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Healey
Member Since: 26 Aug 2014
Location: Gotland
Posts: 31
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Ade!
Can you get the shutter to move by tapping on the lamp assembly?
I fixed mine, adaptive, by following advice here on the forums.
I placed my car against a wall so that I could see if the shutter was stuck, flashed with high beam to get the shutter to stick, tapped on the lamp until the shutter moved to low beam. I the immediately flashed with high beam again, and so on. After several tappings the shutter would not stick any more, so I ten proceeded as per forum advice to exercise the shutter for several minutes by flashing the high beam.
My shutters have been fine ever since.
Hope this helps
Staffan
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7th Nov 2014 10:00 am |
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Gran
Member Since: 28 Aug 2016
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 47
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Thanks for the prompt replies lads.
I’ll go see if I can sort it now.
Cheers
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2nd Feb 2019 2:14 pm |
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