Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Tracing a current drain.UPDATED 13/07/15,Fixed
Ok,finaly got a dry day here so i am out at the car trying to trace a current drain.
I let the car go to sleep,should i lock it or just wait the 15 mins,i ask because i am not convinced i am doing it right,when i connect my DVM i am seeing between 5.5 and 6.2 Amps,after reading the various threads on this i dont think that is right.but carried on anyway.
Checked most of the fuses under the bonnet with no difference apart from F26 and F28 showing a drop of 0.1 amps when removed.
Ok,just gone back out to check my readings and it is now showing 1.45 Amps?
I get the same drop on F26/28 of 0.1 amps but when i remove FL17 it drops to 0.67/8 fluctuating,when i put FL17 back in it rises to 0.9 Amps,when i remove FL18 it drops to the same 0.67/8 but when i replace FL18 it rises to 1.45 Amps again.
Am i doing something wrong or is my car electricly Knackered?
All thoughts and suggestions gratefully recieved.
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
Last edited by BrianT on 13th Jul 2015 9:29 am. Edited 2 times in total
17th Feb 2013 1:05 pm
Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 691
You can't lock it or you'll need to lock yourself inside.
Leave it 15 minutes and interior lights go to sleep and beak light goes from the dash. Make sure you have tricked the door light switch into thinking the door is closed.
Don't forget that she has 3 fuse boxes!
17th Feb 2013 1:21 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
The starting point on a D3 is to remove the bonnet sensor connector from underneath the left hand (as you look at the car) bonnet latch and short it with a paperclip or similar. That way you can lock the car with the bonnet open; otherwise you are fighting against various systems.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Working on the engine compartment fusebox at the moment so no probs with interior yet.
As for the door light switch,where is it,had the car for over 3 yearsnow and cant find it
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
17th Feb 2013 1:27 pm
BrianT
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Ok,just been back out and switched meter on,sitting at 0.9 Amps at moment,still get the 0.1 amp drop when i remove F26 and F28.
Just going to start removing the relay's and other Fusable links and hope that it drops,would i be correct in saying that when asleep it should be at 0.02 Amps?
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
17th Feb 2013 1:56 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Brian, is the car fully asleep with the doors locked as per my post?Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Hi Robbie,
Just spent ages trying to find a piece of wire to short out bonnet switch,connected everything back up and now starting again,will post back when I start again.
On another note,how do i do the same for the passengers side front door?
BrianT
EDIT:- when you disconnect the battery and connect the DVM (i am doing it at the earth end)does this re-awaken the car?MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
17th Feb 2013 2:45 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yes if you disconnect the battery to connect the DMM it will awaken the car. For DMM's with an 11 amp fuse this can be enough to blow the fuse.
To get around this your either cheat with a current clamp or keep the battery 'connected' at all times.
Many ways to achieve this depending on what you have in your garage but figuratively you want to connect your DMM to the battery terminal and battery lead before separating the clamp from the battery, leaving the trickle current running through the DMM alone.
Some use DMM leads with terminal hooks.
Some use disconnect switches (usually nicked from their caravan).
Some use jumper leads / wire with croc clips.
Some use a charger with a supply mode.
The door light switch is in the lock and best left alone.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
F26 appears to be air suspension and F28 is FBH,dont know why these are drawing 0.11 and 0.06 Amps respectively whilst asleep.Surely that should not be,thought the draw should be 0.02 Amps when asleep
Dont know about FL17and FL18 though.
So,with these numbers in mind there is still some 0.80 Amp draw that should not be there,i will now have to go into the depths of the glovebox fusebox and do the same and see what i come up with.
Is there an easy way of doing this or do i need to do it with all the doors locked,legs on the headrest and triple L shaped arm
Thanks,
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
17th Feb 2013 4:03 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Hmmm, not convinced the car is fully asleep. Before getting too carried away with the fuses just leave the DMM connected and with the car locked check the readings after 30 minutes, then an hour, then 2 hours.
Parasitic draw testing on a D3 usually involves watching the telly.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Ok,just running it at the moment to give it a bit of a charge as it's sitting at 11.8V at the moment,will then set it up again and leave until 17:30 with checks at 30 mins and 1 hour.
On another note i noticed that i dont have FL6 fitted,in the manual it shows a trailer and (O),i assume this is something to do with the tow electrics,which i have,should this be fitted?
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
17th Feb 2013 4:21 pm
WOODY179
Member Since: 01 Jun 2005
Location: Chesterfield
Posts: 3638
Robbie wrote:
The starting point on a D3 is to remove the bonnet sensor connector from underneath the left hand (as you look at the car) bonnet latch and short it with a paperclip or similar. That way you can lock the car with the bonnet open; otherwise you are fighting against various systems.
Just use a screwdriver and close this latch, thats what the LR assistance technician did when I was having battery problems so he could check the current drain out, worked a treat. But remember to pull the bonnet release again before closing the bonnet!!
17th Feb 2013 5:23 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, that would work too so whatever takes your fancy but I don't trust my memory; I'm the guy that drove off with his car still connected to the house!Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20745
Brian, you should see 0.02-0.03A draw when the car is fully asleep. This usually takes around 20-30 mins, and in true LR fashion, it seems to vary from car to car
With all the doors closed (or latched at the very least) and the bonnet switch closed, remove the 4 maxi fuses at the front of the fuse box. From memory, they are all red 50A fuses.
These 4 fuses feed all the fuses inside the car. If the draw is gone, then refit them and move onto the fuse box inside the car My D3 Build Thread
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