This one has come up on a few threads so when I attacked worked on my car last night I took some pics.
You'll need:
No2 Pozidrive screwdriver
small electrical screwdriver (for removing tiny screw covers)
large flat-bladed screwdriver, scratchy, pointy end wrapped in tape
13mm socket (longish one that will fit over the ball joint that holds the tailgate retaining cable)
T30 torx key
Right, now you've located, scrounged or nicked the above [drum roll]..... Open upper tailgate
You'll now see there are 4 domed caps set into recesses along the black plastic trim that caps the lower tailgate. With a thin, flat bladed screwdriver prise these caps off.
Now spend 5 minutes looking for the first of the caps. This will have shot off with an energy and vigour that belies its humble origins. No point looking for second one, that bounced off the finger you thought would restrain it and was last seen floating towards the storm drain. The third one is easy to find, its still embedded in your eyelid. The fourth was held in place with a piece of stickytape as you prised it off and will form the foundations of a meaningful conversation with your friendly local parts manager when you order some replacements
The caps concealed 4 screws. Time for that No2 Pozi. Once you've undone them you can pull the trim off, as below:
BE CAREFUL! There are metal clips inside the plastic trim that are needed for the screws to grip on to when reinstalling the trim. Again, a chat with your local parts manager may pay dividends.
Now remove the two tailgate restraining cables. To do this you will need to slide back the short section of rubber tube, then using a flat-bladed screwdriver slide the circlip towards the rubber. This will allow you to remove the cup on the end of the cable from the balljoint on the tailgate.
Picture showing the rubber slid back and the circlip in the "open" position, allowing removal from the tailgate
IMPORTANT!
Tie a loose loop in the cable and wrap this around the tailgate lock pins or they'll retract into the rear quarter trim panels. If this happens, much swearing will ensue while you enlist the help of a malaysian child-slave to feed the cable back through. If you've ever fitted a RAI to a Td5 Defender you'll understand the value of these slaves and will have a couple in your toolbox for just such an incident.
REALLY IMPORTANT!!
Your tailgate is now UNSUPPORTED and will be resting on the bumper at a jaunty angle. If you lean on it, much wailing will be heard and you'll be getting to know your local bodyshop. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! I rolled up a blanket and placed this between the lower tailgate and the bumper to take up some slack and bring it roughly level, but you really do need to make sure you don't lean on it or dump your snap-on tool chest on there.
Now grab yourself a 13mm socket and attempt to remove the balljoints from the tailgate. When you can't do this, re-read the list of required tools at the head of this page and find a LONGER 13mm socket. Once undone, you may need to wriggle the balljoint and washer around a little to get the washer clear of the plastic trim, but have patience young jedi, for they will surrender without the use of the force. TOP TIP: A little pressure on the carpet trim panel will pay dividends if your washer is stuck. Note caveat about the lack of support to your tailgate before deciding how best to apply said pressure. ANOTHER TOP TIP: The balljoints are covered in grease. Try not to wear your best crimplene safari suit when doing this bit.
Next up, grab yourself a long, broad, flat-bladed screwdriver and wrap the head with tape. Slip this under the top edge of the trim and slide it along until you meet resistance. This will be a trim clip, as seen below:
Pull UP on the screwdriver handle and the clip will release. DO NOT push down on the handle, up is what you need and up is what you'll do. Remember, down = bodyshop, up = released trim. Got that? Good
There are five clips along the top edge. This picture shows you where they all are.
Hi-Viz jacket not included
Once you have worked the top clips loose, grab the loose trim edge and give a sharp upwards tug. The lower retaining clips will release. Again, these can be seen in the photo.
Grab your trusty T30 torx key and undo the 10 retaining bolts holding in the subwoofer. Once undone, gently lift the subwoofer to reveal a couple of connectors, one each side of the speaker:
A squeeze on the sides of the connectors will release them. You can now remove the subwoofer.
Refitting is the reversal of the above. BE CAREFUL when refitting the top trim. Make sure you have the metal clips firmly in place inside the trim and that the top of the tailgate fits into the narrow gap behind the trim. The flash gave up on the camera at this point, so no pics I'm afraid. It should be obvious when you look at the trim prior to final assembly.
Last edited by NoDo$h on 26th Jan 2009 9:54 pm. Edited 3 times in total
26th Jan 2009 9:47 pm
AndrewS Tarquin of the Desert
Member Since: 06 May 2005
Location: Y...... because I can
Posts: 10438
Cool all I need is an enterprise loaner In the Beginning there was nothing, which exploded.
26th Jan 2009 9:49 pm
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50934
Nice one Alan ...why did you need to get to it? or have I missed summit? 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
There was a bit of a rattle and buzz from the subwoofer. Turned out one of the Torx screws was loose. I blame Metallica I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
26th Jan 2009 9:55 pm
Shrinky
Member Since: 05 Jul 2007
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 2515
Seriously you should stick that in the wiki Global Warming.... I'm luvvin it
Will do. But not tonight. There's a takeaway curry with my name on it I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
Member Since: 16 Sep 2008
Location: Viseu
Posts: 103
Nodosh have you considered insulating the panel behind the subwoofer with something like a dynamat subwoofer kit? how much space is there between the subwoofer and the metal?
One thing i have been told is that the louder pitch sounds are directional, but the lower ones aren't so if you can somehow insulate the metal that will make the lower sounds more audible inside.. like for instance Lars Ulrich drums...
Plenty of room for dynamat. There's a small panel of the stuff already in there, but it's applied in a pretty haphazard way. Certainly possible to do a proper job.I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
26th Jan 2009 10:45 pm
mac.marty
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: Wiesbaden
Posts: 68
The build in sub of the high audio system is a bit "flat" for my liking...
From what I have seen, the cables leave the tailgate on the low center. Any idea where they go next inside the car. Idea would be to take the sub signal, run it to conversion for normal line signal strength and apply a seperate subwoofer in the trunk of the car.
Any other ideas where to get the sub signal from. Anybody identified the sub cables leaving the amp - or has the build in sub an amp of it´s own.
Martin
20th Feb 2009 2:57 pm
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678
an followup on NoDo$h's work. Addin some more pictures for you to see.
Front of sub:
Rear of sub:
This subwoofer is pretty bad, and looks like it came from the 70's
Now what I did is to install this:
It looks like this:
I used this in all the doors of my freelander, and replaced the speakers with better ones.
I used the leftover for the sub in the D3. Here it is in place:
I havent had time to check if the sound is better, but this sub has to go. Its a dual core "long throw" sub.
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Seriously you should stick that in the wiki 
