Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Nice suggestion, thanks, however I have to agree with Stu, I’ll avoid putting a hole in the roof like it was my head, plus the cable won’t be a permanent fitment as the Basket will be on and off the car.
Unfortunately anything that sticks up above the tracks would also stop me putting the car in my garage to work on it, which I can just about do at the moment by squeezing it in underneath the door in access mode.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
22nd Jul 2010 3:20 pm
disco_doozle
Member Since: 03 Nov 2007
Location: Bree
Posts: 447
Run the cables along the rack....easiest way, no A-pillars flying around, no drilling in the roof .....
And if you put spots like I did.....the don't stick out above the rack.....
I had the same problem with the car-port
More pics in my gallery if you are curious....Disco 3 TDV6 Aut. 7 seat, Zambezi silver, Privacy glass, Rosen A9 DVD, Tow-kit, K&N airfilter, Frontrunner Windcheetah + 4xHella Comet 550, tailgate ladder, 5 breaklights , Performance BB6 17" + Duratracs 256/70R17, RLD Skid-plate, Traxide second battery setup, Lightguards, BAS EGR's blank kit, BAS Silicone hose, Black bonnet decal,
22nd Jul 2010 9:04 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Disco_doozle.
Thanks, but my problem is how to get the cable to the rack from the relays/battery.
The power has to get up there somehow.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
22nd Jul 2010 9:11 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
I've decided to follow the advise given and run the cables through the car.
Can anyone help with the location of a suitable 'hole' to get the cables through the bulkhead?
Thanks
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Jul 2010 8:05 pm
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723
There is a Hole behind the Master cylinder, on the right.... It has a small grommit in it and guessing it was for the clutch cable on lesser D3's. Easiest way to get power from the Engine Bay inside the cabin
23rd Jul 2010 8:07 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Thanks MacLeod
I'll have a look in the morning.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Jul 2010 8:54 pm
xtc
Member Since: 27 Mar 2007
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1072
If you are keeping the vehicle for a while this is another option.
Run a 16 or 25mm cable from the battery via a 60 or 100 amp mega fuse down from the battery and along under the car. Ideally along the top of the LHS chassis rail. Can be held on with tyewraps. Bring up the back of the car and in with tow bar wiring and into the rear LHS locker. This can feed a small marine type fuse distro panel. This will give you good clean power to run your lights, fridge, inverter or anything else you fancy. Run the cables from the lights down the tailgate and in through the backlight in the normal fashion. An alternative to this is to bring them in via the rubber hose that takes the cables to the tailgate. This is for an aerial cable but same route! Much tidier….
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic40474.html
Put the relays for the lights in the rear locker and run some small control cables to the front to your switches, high beam feed etc. I use a bit of cat5 as this gives 8 cores for switching various relays for the above mentioned fridges, inverter etc. It’s very easy to run this small cable along the trim from front to back.
There is a very convenient m6 stud in the locker for – connection.
A connector to disconnect the rack can be placed in the cables after they leave the rear light or rubber tube.
Should you decide on this over the top, but future proof route I have the crimp tools for the 16 or 25mm cables (and bigger) if needed.
Not sure if this is the cheapest place, not to bothered for small amounts, but it has everything you could need & fast delivery.
http://www.iem-services.co.uk/default.asp
Cheers, Richard.Off Roading is OK.... But I'd rather be Boating!
23rd Jul 2010 9:33 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Thanks Richard, that's useful, and gives me a bit more to think about.
I like the idea of future proofing any supply requirements needed in the boot area.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Jul 2010 11:29 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
I managed to get an hour to myself today so I made a start on the wiring for the four spotlights on the front of my occasional use roof basket.
As the 4 spots are 100W each I’m going to run +ve and –ve Relay switched 6mm2 cable from the engine bay through the car, under the sill/kicker plates, then behind the boot side trim and out the back behind the drivers side rear light cluster. They will then split in two and be terminated in two twin pole Superseal 2.8(21Amp) splashproof connectors which I’ve ordered in.
I’ve ordered 2 female and 4 male units so I can make two blanking plugs for when the basket isn’t on the car.
I’m then going to run 2 x twin core 4mm2 cable up to the two pairs of spots using the other two male Superseal plugs.
I’m going to use the redundant(Clutch cable?) grommet just above the steering column at the back of the second battery box to get the cables through the bulkhead, so needed to mount a 40Amp relay and fuse holder in the box. I want to add a second battery soon so put them at the front of the box leaving room for the split charge relay etc at a later date.
I cut and shaped this bracket from some 1mm thick Stainless sheet I had in the garage. Note the provision for two relays as I’ll also be making a loom for the spots on the A bar I’ve just purchased.
Click image to enlarge
With the Fuse holder and Relays in position.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
All I’ve done so far is run the +ve cable from the Battery across the rear of the engine bay and to the Fuse holder.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Now a question for those with more experience.
I was going to run the –ve cable all the way to the –ve post of the battery, but am considering attaching it to the battery earth point in the secondary battery box.
The only real benefit is not having a cable attached to the top of the negative post on the Battery.
I suppose I could just have a short –ve cable that attaches to the body in the jack storage area but wanted to try and separate the entire circuit back to the battery.
What does everyone think?
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
1st Aug 2010 12:34 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Got a little bit more done today.
Used the vent behind the drivers side rear light to get the cables through the body, and added a grommet to an Oval shaped hole in the inner skin to get the cables into the Jack storage area.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Didn’t then take long to run the cables all the way through the car to the secondary battery box.
Anyone have any comments about using the battery earth point in the secondary battery box instead of going all the way to the –ve post of the original battery?
I also had a bit of a ‘weldathon’ and finished fabricating the brackets needed to mount my roof basket. All done in Stainless steel sheet and rectangular section I had in the garage.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Just need to mount the spots across the front now, then when I get back off holiday I’ll strip it all down again and get the mounts powdercoated Black. Although I'm thinking of adding some detain of some kind to the front supports first.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
1st Aug 2010 7:53 pm
Trackman
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 430
Nasher,
Re the negative in the aux battery box.
I used the bolt on the left hand side of the box just further back from the alarm module. This is the main earth terminal for the battery when in the left hand drive configuration.
You can see this if you follow your negative lead from your engine crank battery to the chassis.
Ian.
2nd Aug 2010 12:17 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Managed to get some more done today.
Cables connected.
Click image to enlarge
With the Light unit back in place.
Click image to enlarge
It's not finished yet as the brackets need to come off for powdercoating.
It goes on, and comes off again, in about Ten minutes, which is better than I thought and satisfies my need to be able to throw it on when I need to use it.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
12th Aug 2010 8:51 pm
Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
I must admit that I don't understand why you used the air vents (thereby compromising their operation) instead of the grommet immediately below.The Bearded Dragon
13th Aug 2010 7:57 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
Fair point, but from experiance, adding a new hole to a grommet like that will always allow water in, and there certainly isn't enough room to add the cable I've used to the existing hole.
There can be a lot of water draining down through that area and over the surface of the grommet so I didn't want to chance it.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
13th Aug 2010 7:44 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
I am with bushwanderer. You wouldn't want to do it that way in Oz. It would let bulldust in. You are as likely to let water in by going through the flap.
Neat job with the rest though.
If you go through the grommet you just put some sealant in with the cable. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
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