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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
  
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| TDV6 Turbo (error P132B) - CLEANED & WORKING PROPERLY |
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Hey there.
First post on here
I have a problem with my Disco3 05 tdv6, with a BAS remap. I have been very happy with the Disco and its a magic car to drive both on and off road.
About 2hrs into a road trip, the main screen come up with "engine systems failure" message, and a substantial loss of low down power. Power above 2300rpm was still good thou so keeping it in 5th or 4th the car still had plenty of power. As I was on a 500 mile trip towing a car from Melbourne to Sydney (it always happens when you are out of town doesn't it).
When arriving in Sydney, I got the local landrover specialist check the faults and it came up with P132B and P132E, and the dealer stated your turbo is stuffed and will cost 3350 uk pounds to repair here locally (ouch). Doing abit of a search (on this forum) it seems this is a reasonably common problem and in most cases the turbo actuator siezes or gets messed up with carbon to the point id doesn't function.
This is very useful information and potentaily 20 uk pound part to repair (actuator service kit LR023086), or with some greasing it may free up. My symptoms seem to match that exactly of a sticking valve, as I get a plume of black fuel smoke between 1500-2300 when under load (I guess this is the fuel not burnt by the variable vane turbo not activiating) and when the power delivery is very sudden .
The main question I have is where is this actuator located, and is it a service item I can do from the home garage or more of a specialist job.
Thank you in advance
Last edited by GazM3 on 10th Aug 2011 6:59 am. Edited 2 times in total
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 6th Aug 2011 3:58 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
 
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Which dealer?
Nick (the large one) posted the details of the kit on here. Do a search. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 7th Aug 2011 4:04 am |
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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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caverD3 wrote:Which dealer?
Nick (the large one) posted the details of the kit on here. Do a search.
No worries. Dealer was Trivetts in Sydney Ausrralia. O have the kit detail just need to know where the actuator valve is located and how I get access to it (ie under the car / top of car / LHS / RHS)?
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| 7th Aug 2011 5:24 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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This is the thread:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic65578.html
Suggest Alto atSt Leonards or Trivetts at Parramatta. 
You may need to get the kit from TLO. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 7th Aug 2011 5:51 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
 
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Hi Gaz, I've just replaced my turbo (took it out last Sunday, new one in Thursday) on a 2005 D3, symptoms I had were very similar to your own, no low down power but still drivable. Engine system fault showed on display and a 'turbo electrical failure' was stored when the codes were read (can't remember the fault code number -sorry).
There's a few posts on here and a lot of experience, (Disco_Mikey, Beck Hoose to name just two) who gave excellent personal experience of doing the job. It is a big job, but can be done by DIY as you are talking about removing/replacing the turbo, (via the nearside wheel arch and below)there is no way you can get near the actuator otherwise, I had thought I could move it with a screwdriver but no chance. When I did get the turbo out the actuator rod WAS seized, it took a shifting spanner to free it but it was stuck at the turbo end suggesting that the fault was inside the turbo but that it may have caused the electric actuator to fail. I called 9 turbo companies who basically said the same, we can do the mechanical side of the turbo but not the actuator (it may have to be calibrated to the turbo by the factory in Germany), all said that a new turbo was the way to go. If you take all of this into consideration and that removing the turbo takes many hours (think the total job time was around 17hrs - we are home DIY mechanics btw) its a big job to take it out, replace it and find out that the fault wasn't just a 'seized actuator'. On replacing mine and starting up NO FAULTS showed on the display and the car was back to normal! Worth the effort but a lot of work!
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| 7th Aug 2011 9:31 am |
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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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Unnecessary quote removed
Thank you for the detailed reply. One thing that has been suggested by my mechanic friends is to use a de-carbonizing spray to see if this can free it up without pulling the turbo out initially. With a quick google search it seems many VVT cars have similar actuator issues and around 50% are fixed by using a de-carbonizing treatment spray. At around 10quid per can its probably worth doing. I guess the next option is pull the turbo out and change the actuator mechanical rod, and have a turbo on stand by in case the electricals are stuffed. It would be far cheaper to get a turbo from the UK, may mean the car is off the road for a few weeks but I guess this is better than paying robbery money for an OEM one ex Australia.
I have my fingers crossed that the carbon cleaner will do it, but I'm skeptical.
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| 8th Aug 2011 12:20 pm |
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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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well good news of sorts.........upon advise of some mechanicaly minded friends, and a bit of net research I tried some de-carboniser (seafoam, or called subaru intake system cleaner here) and after a reasonable road test, no P132B or "engine system failure" message, with full power restored. People suggested it may need a 2nd treatment in a few days, and if the actuator is really bad well it may only be a temporary measure, but I guess its better than nothing.
Lots of diesels are going to VVT turbos for the extra opreating range, and with diesels the inhernat messyness could see lots of actuation failures as they get older. It may be worth using a de-carboniser every 2nd oil change or something to keep things working well.
Hope Im not posting in the next few days to say this problem is returning.
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| 9th Aug 2011 1:02 pm |
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D4JWW
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1318
 
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Gazm3 welcome to the forum and happy to hear you got a fix, I had my turbo replaced under warranty(seized actuator rod) only 2 year old D3 with 25k miles, so very interested in the product you mention in preventing another turbo replacement. How did you apply the product any draw back of using it, more detail would be appreciated. A few mods... and keeping it all running...Faultmate MSV2
MY09EGR's blanked Thanks Bellautos, BAS
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| 9th Aug 2011 1:12 pm |
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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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Its called "Subaru upper engine cleaner". In the USA they call it seafoam. Do a google search on it - Pretty well everyone who has used it loves it.
The process was pretty simple. The can comes with a nossle so all i done was as per the procedure on the can.
1/ Warm the engine up to operating temperature with a short 10min drive
2/ Unscrew the airbox to gain access to the intake duct
3/ Spray 1/2 the contents of the can down the intake duct (using the long straw to miss the sensor on the MAF) and leave for 5 min
4/ Have someone with you, they start the car (sounds like awful at first start up) and when running about 1200rpm or so empty the rest of the contents of the can down the intake pipe until the can is empty.
5/ Switch off the engine and let it sit for 10min or so.
6/ Operate the engine (it runs pretty rough for a few min - and can smoke abit) for about 5 min or so to purge the rest of the cleaner out of the system.
7/ Re attach the airbox
8/ Test drive
Its nice to have that low down grunt back again. As I said, I may need a 2nd application. If it works and keeps the actuator operational for a while, Ill call it a success. Ill also use this as a preventative measure say every 2nd oil change.
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| 9th Aug 2011 2:00 pm |
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Ade
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: West Lothian
Posts: 950
 
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Hmmmm... Just googled Seafoam, and there are lots of mixed reports on the net about this stuff
Would love to hear from proper people that have used it
I found a UK supplier here:
http://www.ukseafoamseller.co.uk/
and there are lots of videos around; this one is from the USA sellers
&feature=related
GazM3 did also put the stuff in your diesel, oil and breake pipe, or just use the intake spray?
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| 9th Aug 2011 2:53 pm |
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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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Just the intake spray. This is the only item id use it for.
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| 9th Aug 2011 3:36 pm |
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D4JWW
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1318
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Very interesting, I would prefer not to send it through the engine if its done on every second oil change, I remember someone referring to the possibility to use the egr valve openings??  A few mods... and keeping it all running...Faultmate MSV2
MY09EGR's blanked Thanks Bellautos, BAS
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| 10th Aug 2011 9:34 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
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hi Gaz, I've been on holiday for the past 12 days and just read your post. It sounds great and I certainly would have tried that first with mine had I known of it but my actuator rod was solid so perhaps you caught yours in time! Well done and hopefully thats sorted your problem out! 
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| 20th Aug 2011 10:23 am |
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GazM3
Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 19
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Damn the actuator rod has come back. I'll think I'll bite the bullet and order the actuator rod kit. I'll reflash the standard maps back (instead of the Bas ones) and see if it works ok on the STD mapping before I rip the turbo out
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| 21st Aug 2011 12:48 pm |
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B16 KJR
Member Since: 10 Jul 2006
Location: Rosyth, Fife
Posts: 3005
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I seem to mind Disco Mikey posting on here a while back that one of the "upgrade" software fixes that are done by Landrover "excercises" the turbo vanes and stops this happening. Might be worth checking out for the future.
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| 22nd Aug 2011 9:20 am |
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