Member Since: 24 May 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 17
replacement / fix for knocking harmonic balance weights?
Well my 06 tdv6 is just about to clock over 270,000ks and just recently a knocking in the rear is more audible.
FINALLY sussed out what it is from... looks like the bush in the left hand weight has perished and the weight dropped a couple of mm enabling it to knock the chasis.
Has anyone pulled one of the out and replaced the bush? If so how?
Thanks....D3 TDV6
ARB Bullbar, snorkel, GG ATs, GOE rods, Mitch hitch, homemade drawer system, cargo barrier and a 16.5 ft off road caravan. Recently been on a 5 month trip around Oz. http://pjatjourneys.blogspot.com
13th May 2012 11:34 am
Bob.
Member Since: 05 Apr 2009
Location: 52�N 2�W
Posts: 94
Are you sure it is a collapsed bush? This was one on my RRS 3 years ago at 20k miles and that was sagging then.
Click image to enlarge
I think that to remove the harmonic damper to rebush it requires the rear of the body to be jacked up to remove the casting as it goes right over the chassis rail. (same procedure as replacing rear anti roll bar)
Hope the knock is something else.
13th May 2012 9:37 pm
pohm
Member Since: 24 May 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 17
Unfortunately Bob I can confirm it is the weight, the top of which hits the rear cross member as it swing forward.
Looks like an ugly jog to rectify properly (the pics gave me a better insight ).... me dost wonder if some form of damper aka rubber can be used as a barrier.
It'll still hit but not with that horrible metallic thud unless I put it on the stop limiting the weights swing.
Going to have a closer look.D3 TDV6
ARB Bullbar, snorkel, GG ATs, GOE rods, Mitch hitch, homemade drawer system, cargo barrier and a 16.5 ft off road caravan. Recently been on a 5 month trip around Oz. http://pjatjourneys.blogspot.com
14th May 2012 4:29 am
Bob.
Member Since: 05 Apr 2009
Location: 52�N 2�W
Posts: 94
Hope the simple "rubber pad in the way stops the clonking" technique works. Seem to remember they weigh 15kg each so there is a fair bit of energy in them when they move.
Good luck.
14th May 2012 4:08 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Anyone seen what a new bush looks like, could the old one be cut burnt out and a new one be pushed in place whilst on the car.MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
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14th May 2012 4:17 pm
B16 KJR
Member Since: 10 Jul 2006
Location: Rosyth, Fife
Posts: 3005
Dont suppose Polybush do these in 2 parts Might be worth having a chat with them
15th May 2012 1:30 pm
Markmein
Member Since: 07 Jul 2012
Location: Chester
Posts: 180
Has anyone had any further success with this? I have a collapsed bush on the left outer and the left inner isn't looking great so will have to fix, just wondering if anyone has had a go at this?
27th Jul 2016 8:24 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
I recall someone rebuilding the rear propshaft rubber bush with a compound (cant recall name) - any chance that a "good enough" fix could be completed?2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
27th Jul 2016 8:38 pm
Markmein
Member Since: 07 Jul 2012
Location: Chester
Posts: 180
I think the propshaft fix is to use a PU sealant adhesive to fill the void around the center bearing carrier, if I can get to the damper it might work but I have a feeling the bloody thing would have to come off to accomplish that.
I can't even find the part number for the damper never mind the bush at the moment though.
Need to try and establish if the body needs to be jacked off the chassis to allow clearance to remove the weight though before I start as it seems to be an escalating job.
Member Since: 07 Jul 2012
Location: Chester
Posts: 180
Great thanks for the part no's, I'll start looking for best price.
Is it necessary to lift the body clear to get the damper out?
27th Jul 2016 10:33 pm
kraatzD
Member Since: 06 Jul 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 2
I have the same question -
Do you need to lift the body to get them out?
Also - Can I go without them? What will happen?
thanks
6th Jul 2020 9:39 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
Second reactIon in this topic answers your first question, unless you cut them..
But they are not there without a purpose, it will become very bumpy and rough
Discussed here on the forum earlyer.... have a search...Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
7th Jul 2020 12:05 am
Discoveringcomfort
Member Since: 16 Sep 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 637
I used Sikaflex on my prop and worked well but messy, this would probaly work OK here if you held the wieght up in the correct position whilest you glued it. It does take hours to set though so no usijng the car in the meantime.Series 1 V8
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7th Jul 2020 5:29 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
).... me dost wonder if some form of damper aka rubber can be used as a barrier.
Might be worth having a chat with them 
