Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Cheers Robbie,
Like Mikey I haven't had the time or the inclination to check further.
Will wait until the warmer weather comes in and get back on it
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
14th Mar 2015 11:39 am
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Mine improved with a new alternator, charging better, regulating the voltage better but still got a drain somewhere , going to have another search this afternoon to see if I can trace it
14th Mar 2015 11:45 am
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
I've been using your guide to check for drop voltage at the fuses Robbie , is there an easy / similar way to check the relays or does it need a relay test kit?
14th Mar 2015 11:48 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
You can clamp the wires underneath relays or use jumper wires with spade terminals to extend the relay above the fuse box. Quite often there is somewhere else on the circuit that provides an alternative place to test.
Relay test kits are popular as they take away the risk of confusing the terminals and sending large currents to an expensive and ungrateful ECU. I don't have a relay test kit as I have yet to find one that ticks the essential 'cheap but good' requirement.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
that's my next job then
14th Mar 2015 2:43 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
Recently I've been using the Lisle relay jumper kit, purchased from Amazon.
Click image to enlarge
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GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
14th Mar 2015 3:21 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Does that tick the boxes for the d3 Allan ?
14th Mar 2015 3:22 pm
BrianT
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Just posted on another thread,
I think my drain was non existent and resulted from a faulty battery, I had some starting/charging problems again that started back in April and after some more investigation I found that I needed a new battery, an Excide was ordered and all is good now, I have no issue's with starting and I don't get the usual errors in the morning now.
My initial diagnosis was the result of non calibrated test equipment that was giving me false readings
Happy Bunny now.
BrianT MY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
13th Jul 2015 9:28 am
af3556
Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 27
Quote:
My initial diagnosis was the result of non calibrated test equipment that was giving me false readings Sad
You may have had uncalibrated gear, but I can attest that I've just faced near-identical situation os your OP, with my readings on multiple meters - both clamp and inline ammeter - being within earshot of yours.
And as with your fault, replacing the battery has restored proper functioning.
It seems that when the car battery isn't up to snuff parts of the car can't properly go to sleep and all bets are off with regard to quiescent current draw.
1st Feb 2020 11:30 am
af3556
Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 27
dup
1st Feb 2020 11:31 am
Morepower
Member Since: 18 May 2012
Location: Somerset
Posts: 166
I had a drain that would take the battery down to 11.0 v overnight (it always started ok tho) Woody32 had a look and he unplugged the altox unit from th fbh and so far seems ok now, shows 12+ overnight now👍🏻
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