Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
Oh is that it, he's into strippers now Male or female? yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Jul 2020 2:23 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
PROFSR G wrote:
The gearbox breather runs on top of the g/box and behind the crossover pipe, It is held via a bracket behind the drivers side cyl head, next to the vacuum pump.
There is box box section which houses the gear selector beneath the centre console and is removable! If you remove the shifter and console you should be able to remove this too. This will dramatically increase your access to the upper gearbox bolts, and breather pipe bracket with socket extensions. Though I haven't done it this way, (it was easier to remove the body )
That's fantastic! thanks for that - I know what i'm dealing with now, i'll give this a go before i break my hands in spaces they shouldn't go!
PROFSR G wrote:
Have another look at what you believe to be oil leaking at the intercooler, it might be diesel from the fuel cooler!!
Is the fuel cooler the thin one? I'll take a closer look at that! there seems to be some kind of loop pipe on the back of the rad - not sure what thats for.
PROFSR G wrote:
Use new bolts when replacing the drive shaft flange as these will not suffer re-torquing to LR specs. (ie they'll snap first!) You will need to support the g/box!
Best of luck
Yup, I'll be getting new bolts! they were in way too tight - looking at a workshop manual these should only have been 45nm +90 degrees!
I'll need all the luck I get get me thinks!
20th Jul 2020 2:40 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
DSL wrote:
Would have been a lot easier just to sell her.
Oh I seriously considered it! thicker oil and WBAC was an option. But I'd probably end up buying another one with the same problem so thought I may as well give it a go first!
20th Jul 2020 2:44 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72790
Hardware wrote:
DSL wrote:
Would have been a lot easier just to sell her.
Let's face it DSL, you're disappointed this isn't another "stripper" thread.
Not yet.
Only kidding wallworkf1, stripping is so over-rated.
20th Jul 2020 2:45 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72790
wallworkf1 wrote:
DSL wrote:
Would have been a lot easier just to sell her.
Oh I seriously considered it! thicker oil and WBAC was an option. But I'd probably end up buying another one with the same problem so thought I may as well give it a go first!
That’s always the issue. Just think of it as an addiction that needs fed.
20th Jul 2020 2:46 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
Nipped out at lunch and released the driveshaft! Chisel did the job.
Click image to enlarge
much better access now for this side
20th Jul 2020 2:48 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
DSL wrote:
That’s always the issue. Just think of it as an addiction that needs fed.
That and I like any excuse to justify increasing the old tool collection! Think its man maths! Adding an engine hoist, engine stand and new axle stands was a little extreme though I admit
20th Jul 2020 2:52 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
wallworkf1 wrote:
Is the fuel cooler the thin one? I'll take a closer look at that! there seems to be some kind of loop pipe on the back of the rad - not sure what thats for.
Yes it's the single element sitting on the intercooler.
PROFSR G wrote:
Use new bolts when replacing the drive shaft flange as these will not suffer re-torquing to LR specs. (ie they'll snap first!) You will need to support the g/box!
Best of luck
wallworkf1 wrote:
Yup, I'll be getting new bolts! they were in way too tight - looking at a workshop manual these should only have been 45nm +90 degrees!
I'll need all the luck I get get me thinks!
Yes 45Nm + 90 deg yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Jul 2020 3:02 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
Engine out with body on.
Bit of an update -
So that wasn't too painful, engine is out!
I did take the centre console out to get to a couple of the top bolts on the gearbox bell housing (crossover pipe bracket) so that helped thanks
A few pictures below.
I'll be looking at the big end bearings first I think - they seem to have quite a bit of side to side movement - not sure what the acceptable play is though?
Looks like there has also been a bit of an oil leak near the oil pump too.
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28th Jul 2020 12:11 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
Observe car
Progress! Well done
Observe the bearing cap positions and orientation as they are fracture fit! Renew any cap bolts removed, and the crankshaft sprocket bolt.
Are you removing the heads and stripping them or leaving as is?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Jul 2020 1:12 am
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
I'm going to try and leave the heads on if I can - but if they have to come out at some point then so be it - although it all depends on the bottom end.
I think the first item on the list is to simply inspect the bearings (big ends first) and the crankshaft for damage and go from there. I guess i'll be ordering all the special tools for removing/installing oil seals/crank position sensors if/when the crank has to come out.
I haven't even taken the timing cover off yet to look at the oil pump and make sure it's the newer one.
Any recomendations on the best place to get replacements bolts/gaskets seals etc...?
getting there... slowly slowly
28th Jul 2020 8:33 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10368
that crank seal remover is for petrol engines I think
28th Jul 2020 10:11 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
wallworkf1 wrote:
I'm going to try and leave the heads on if I can - but if they have to come out at some point then so be it - although it all depends on the bottom end.
I think the first item on the list is to simply inspect the bearings (big ends first) and the crankshaft for damage and go from there. I guess i'll be ordering all the special tools for removing/installing oil seals/crank position sensors if/when the crank has to come out.
I haven't even taken the timing cover off yet to look at the oil pump and make sure it's the newer one.
Any recomendations on the best place to get replacements bolts/gaskets seals etc...?
getting there... slowly slowly
The reason I asked about the heads is because there is a special tool required for torquing the HPFP drive sprocket on the camshaft.(there's no key way on that cam ) Can't find the one I had so ordered it new again, three weeks later it hadn't turned up so I had to make one.
I suppose it is possible you could leave the sprocket on the cam, but you would have to refit it with the seal in place, compressing it home with the bearing cap Not the best way to install a used cam seal, but I suspect it has been done that way by others. If you are doing anything to the heads you should replace the cam chains and tensioners, but again the cams have to come off for this. The heads can stay on, and unless the engine is high mileage I'd leave them there and just do the chains/tensioners and the other two cam seals as well as the vac pump seal.
Changing the above items will make for a quieter engine, and you'll sleep better knowing they are done.
There's a forum discount with Advance factors.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Jul 2020 1:40 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10368
I removed the cam and belt cover from the
Engine.
Undid the bolt in the vice. Changed the seal. And did it up in the vice
28th Jul 2020 7:32 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
So - before I start stripping it down any further (and while I build up the motivation to crack on with it in between work) - I thought I would just try my timing pin set.
I bought a cheap set of eBay - and of course the flexiplate/flywheel locking one doesn't quite fit in the access hole on the bell housing/block (i read the crap reviews of them and bought one anyway - oh well my fault). That's fine I can sort that out.
So I'm pretty sure sure the larger of the two that came in the set is for the Auto (which I have) which seems to imply that the hole to line up with on the flexiplate should be roughly in the centre of bell housing hole. (the workshop manual looks that way too) - the one for the manual is offset (bear this in mind when reading on!)
With the two timing pins in the cam pulleys correctly, the flexi plate doesn't line up in the hole as you would expect with timing tool. It's more towards the top of the access hole?
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Interestingly you can see from the front there are a few paint pen marks from a previous belt change.
I'm pretty sure I read on here somewhere that the flexiplate can only go on one way, in one position on the end of the crank? so i should trust that to be correct right?
Are there any other markings/way I can use to ensure the crank is in the correct position in relation to the cams?
If I put the flywheel in the correct (assumed) locking position - things don't quite line up on the cams and the old markings on the front pulleymake even less sense.
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I'm starting to think someone tried to time it using either the manual gearbox locking tool (which in theory should be too short), or they didn't use one!
What do others think? - does that look wrong to you? would there be any reason for it to be like this? To me it looks roughly 1 tooth out on the belt/crank front pulley?
BTW if i line up the two of the larger paint marks on the pully together - things still don't line up!
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Male or female? 
) Can't find the one I had so ordered it new again, three weeks later it hadn't turned up so I had to make one. 
Not the best way to install a used cam seal, but I suspect it has been done that way by others. If you are doing anything to the heads you should replace the cam chains and tensioners, but again the cams have to come off for this. The heads can stay on, and unless the engine is high mileage I'd leave them there and just do the chains/tensioners and the other two cam seals as well as the vac pump seal.
