Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Southampton
Posts: 2648
Update
Take the following as assistance and not the basis for professional advice -
I have spoken with technical managers at both Mahle and Wix this morning.
Both very helpful and both saying much the same thing - The dealer in blaming a filter as a get out statement, perhaps he is being a little quick to judge, that is if the product that is fitted meets the OE standard then whatever make it is, is suitable for the vehicle - European block exemption laws say so.
They haven't seen the filter so they can't state that this is the case 100% but are both of the opinion that whatever the brand if it is the correct filter (right end caps and right paper quality) then it will do the job, an exception would be if the filter media is not to specification then it MAY restrict oil flow.
In this engine they tell me that all of the oil pressure is controlled in the filter housing and not in the filter, the locating spigot is just that, an exception would be where this is damaged on fitting and restricts the oil flow. A faliure to achieve constant pressure would have effect on various engine components.
Perhaps this is a faliure caused by another component wearing? a big end cap turning would stop oil flow.
Sorry, it's about all the help I can give here.Paul Redding
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4th Jun 2013 10:21 am
Advanced Factors Site Sponsor
Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Southampton
Posts: 2648
Andy
Just one thing further (in addition to the PM's we have exchanged)
In 2005 I bought my first D3 HSE, I sold it a year later for a RRS HSE which I kept for three years. I then had in the space of a year a Volvo S80, a Zafira, a Landcruiser, a Grand Cherokee a Ford Galaxy, I even took home one of the company vans for a few weeks. (what a waste of cash all this was!)
Despite my frustrations with LR when I saw my current D3 in a dealer advert I jumped in a car, drove from Southampton to Bristol bought it and drove it home that day.
So even with the few failures that we read about here I am convinced it is the best thing I have bought and wouldn't want to change, for me it does what it says on the tin and even if I take a turn in looking for an engine I would have another one.
Mug eh!
Stick with it, even an engine may be better than buying an unknown vehicle that eats money later.Paul Redding
+44 (0)23 8052 2774
Order Parts Online at www.advancedfactors.co.uk
4th Jun 2013 10:58 am
tomtom86
Member Since: 09 Mar 2013
Location: Here and there
Posts: 590
When I service the car myself I use genuine filters and recommended oils, the last service (Post new engine and after 4000miles) was done by JE in Coventry and they used the correct oils and as far as I can recall a genuine filter. Whether the filter was my problem or not, is really a mute point and one I can't prove either way.
All I can say is, mine is now at 130k and running a sweet as a nut - (DId I really say that?) though a remap and off-road IC does make it even better than when I bought it.
I had the choice when my engine went bang of scrapping it or biting the bullet and replacing the engine. As it know the cars other faults, it was a no brainer for me - new engine and keep it for a few more years.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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4th Jun 2013 7:23 pm
fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
I know I am know where near as michanically qualifed as many on here, but are you sure hadn't overfilled the oil, the level is very hard to tell on a D3, I once blew a ford engine by over filling it with oil.Club Narpy Torch
“No return to boom and bust†Gordon Brown when chancellor
He has been proved right, now there is only bust!
4th Jun 2013 7:43 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I'd love to see inside the engine, just to see if the shells were still correctly located rather than partially rotated and hindering the oil flow…
The filter is a red-hering and can be ignored.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Apparently my shells were ok - the main crank thrust bearing wasn't.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
4th Jun 2013 8:34 pm
BrickTop
Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 103
Couple of questions for the op.
You say that the engine is fubar and that there are metal particles in the oil but has the engine actually seized up?
Has anyone actually attempted to turn the engine over by hand?
Apologies if this has already been mentioned
4th Jun 2013 8:44 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
The engine has not seized, it still ran but, IIRC, it was very lumpy, had a knock, and a lot of crankcase pressureMy D3 Build Thread
Bricktop, Turbo's do seize but from no basis in fact, I would say mostly from bearing failure due to lack of oil, so another underlying cause - or in the case of mine, the turbine blades knocked off, but it hadn't seized. Or if it had, it was un-seized when it cooled down, but there were no signs of it having done so.
Click image to enlarge
The resulting bits were fine fillings of aluminium that didn't seem to get past the intercooler. There was no sign of anything that went through the turbo either.
Mine still ran too - but knocked - apparently from the top of the engine, but later proven to be the bottom.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
5th Jun 2013 5:40 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
I suspected mine was a poor oil filter. The customer was on the phone only a few days after his local garage had done an oil and filter change, saying the oil light was staying on for longer than normal. He was going to bring it up to us for another oil and filter change, but never made it.
When the car became mine, the oil light would stay on for around 7-8 seconds after startup, and stay on most of the time even when revving the engine. I put another oil filter into it, and the oil light started behaving normally again, despite the bottom end damage
I dropped the sump, and crankcase on the old engine to swap them over, and all the metal fragments came from various pistons breaking up, I can only imagine it was the low oil pressure, which caused the piston cooling jets to stop spraying the pistons with oil, and overheat, causing the failure...
Although, none of this is 100%, it's only an educated guess, due to the series of events, and resultant damage My D3 Build Thread
When turbos seize on this engine, the 3ltr and the TDV8 they can cause very similar to what the op has stated although I am not privy to all the facts. The vast majority of turbo failures to which I am referring have done so in such a way that they tip internally and block off exhaust gases passing through them to some degree. This pressure forces itself down the drain tube and in-turn pressurises the sump. Obviously metal particles can be found in the oil and as stated in the turbo pipes and inter cooler. The core reason to this failure seems to be bearing failure perhaps caused by poor maintenance and/or oil and filter quality.
I am not suggesting for one minute poor servicing is the cause for this issue however just pushing the turbo in to the air as it hasn't been suggested as a viable reason for what has happened.
Like I said I am not privy to all facts, but am simply putting the ops and disco mikeys posts together
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