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Technical Bear
Member Since: 15 Apr 2008
Location: Darwen Lancs
Posts: 56
  
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Hi Guys,
Did mine today. First, a huge thanks to the guys on here for providing the instructions, otherwise I would still have been looking in the top tailgate for the latch! So, just to make it clear, the mechanism for the upper door is in the lower door.
I released the carpet panel very quickly, probably helped by the fact that the top trim was broken around the fixing screw at the drivers side. Had to tear the gray foam as it was stuck on really well. Pushed the plastic cover off the actuator and could feel the loose end of the cable but couldn't see any easy way of getting hold of it. I then realised that the end of the outer of the cable sits in a slot in the actuator. I put a small adjustable spanner over the cable next to the actuator and gave a really hard push and out it popped. It was then a simple job to fish out the cable (and the spanner!) and pull the inner to open the tailgate.
When removing the actuator it is not necessary to remove the bolts as they are in keyholes, just slacken them and slide in the appropriate direction. You have to cut another hole in the dreaded foam to get at the electrical connection and it doesn't just unplug, there is a little catch to squeeze, like most of the plugs on the vehicle.
I then decamped to the workshop to make a new connection to the cable. The end of the L shaped termination had sheared off, so I re-engineered it. Note this as what I would describe as "monkey metal" not plastic and had broken at the corner of the L.
Put it all back together and it works a treat. 
I was very surprised to find a large loudspeaker in the tailgate. Must be the subwoofer, didn't realise I had one!
TTFN Geoff.
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 27th Jan 2010 6:07 pm |
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mwsp
Member Since: 18 Jan 2010
Location: lancs
Posts: 13
 
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Just a massive thanks to all the guys re this cost saving repair, all the tips and pictures, part numbers etc etc. Did the repair the other day, and much to my amazement went without any hitches. I was very cautious with removing the carpet when I saw how much force is required to bend the cutlery knives! New cable and latch LR017470 was 24 notes.....Thanks again. 
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| 5th Feb 2010 5:59 pm |
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Duncw99
Member Since: 17 Mar 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 4
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Hi Guys,
My first post, D3 owner for 3 weeks now, and on my 3rd fault...
Just to say that the advice and instructions on tailgate issues is spot on. Many thanks.
Hot tip I would like to add - repair can be effected with just an electrical choc-block connector, a sharp pair of cable cutters, and an old (or new) bicycle wheel spoke. The spoke cut be easily cut to replace the broken right-angled crimp on the end of the cable and re-connected to the shortened existing cable with the choc-block. A couple of ty-wraps to hold the new "spoke" in place and job done. Cost: a few pence, time taken: 45 mins.
Cheers all
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| 15th May 2010 9:13 pm |
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sopjas
Member Since: 31 Dec 2008
Location: Its never Dull in Hull
Posts: 280
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| Tailgat wont open!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Found this on the forum after i had completed the job, What a job this is to do? 
Finally got the tailgate open and made a temp repaired as the part was not in stock at the dealer.
I will be modifying the new actuator with an emergency release cable, So if we get stuck again there is an easy way to access the tailgate. 
I will put on the forum when this is done with pics hopefully. 'Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive'
Buckingham blue, Webast timer/remote, AT2s, Black & Silver ovals ,
Privacy Glass , Drilled and Groved Discs , Xenons, Rear LED's , Light Guards,Hawkeye diagnostic unit.
TL1000R--XR600R--
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| 16th May 2010 9:09 am |
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ebygum32
Member Since: 03 Oct 2010
Location: yorkshire - London
Posts: 1590
 
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Mine failed now so stripped it down to cable cut that to expose inner cable and pulled and pulled and pulled but nothing, when I operate the actuator I can see the cable pulling, I am at a total loss has anyone any ideas please
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| 26th Apr 2011 4:36 pm |
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Gazellio
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
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Its worth noting that the carpet trim/plastic panel that stops you accessing the actuator and cable is cheap and easily replaced. Therefore it makes sense to cut it out of the way and replace it rather than trying to work behind it.
Also £150 at the Indy seems to make more sense to me....
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| 26th Apr 2011 5:10 pm |
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spike.malin
Member Since: 24 Jul 2009
Location: Cromer
Posts: 12
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Hi. Although I can't open my upper tailgate using the standard unlock button on the fob, I can open it using the "Landrover" button on the fob if I press the button and pull the tailgate at the same time. It was working fine on Saturday morning when I loaded up to go to the bottle bank but when I got there, it wouldn't open. Any ideas?
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| 27th Apr 2011 2:12 pm |
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Gazellio
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
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I think you are activating the emergency unlock as with the dashboard procedure....
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| 27th Apr 2011 2:54 pm |
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spike.malin
Member Since: 24 Jul 2009
Location: Cromer
Posts: 12
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..does this mean I have the same problem as everyone else as described or have I accidently reprogrammed my key fob?
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| 27th Apr 2011 5:31 pm |
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dunton10
Member Since: 23 Dec 2006
Location: SUTTON COLDFIELD, WEST MIDS
Posts: 208
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I think you will find that if it opens using the emergency release procedure or the key fob in your case then the cable will be ok. Its the handle/microswitch thats faulty. there is another thread on here relating to removing the handle and cleaning the microswitch, I;'ve got mine off at the moment and its all corroded up resulting in the microswitch not being activated. Just looking for the thread to se how it comes apart for a clean and lube.
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| 4th May 2011 11:59 am |
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741hcr
Member Since: 12 Apr 2007
Location: Usually in front of the PC
Posts: 175
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When I pull the button on the upper tailgate handle there is no noise and therefore it doesn't open. Give the tailgate handle a good hard thump on top and it opens every time. Spoke to dealer today and they say its probably microchip and the whole top tailgate handle has to be replaced at the same time. Does this sound right?
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| 5th May 2011 5:53 pm |
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spike.malin
Member Since: 24 Jul 2009
Location: Cromer
Posts: 12
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I've done it! After reading through these pages, I fixed my tailgate problem in 20 minutes. I couldn't open the upper tailgate using the usual buttons on the fob however it would open using the emergency button. That therefore pointed me to the microswitch in the handle. Once I managed to get the handle off (4x bolts and 3x nuts) it was just a case of peeling back the rubber covering and giving the switch area a good clean. It now works a treat. It may be possible to expose the switch without taking the handle off, just a thought. Thanks to everyone for their advice. 
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| 14th May 2011 1:12 pm |
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maxmax
Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 181
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| Tailgate stuck - mini guide to mending and temporary fix |
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Tailgate stuck this morning and now mended.
Very quick diagnostic thoughts as a flow process based on my experience and readings here:
1. Does tailgate click / whir when either button is pressed on the tailgate handle?
a .... if yes and the boot is stuck you probably have a broken cable or stuck actuator?
b .... if no, try holding both the lock and unlock buttons on the dashboard for between five and fifteen seconds
- does the tailgate release "whir / click"
....... if yes, send someone around to pull on the tailgate while repeating the button press
......if the boot opens well done
..........if not, broken cable or stuck actuator
....... if no, broken actuator or wiring to actuator
---- how to then mend the broken cable or stuck actuator is well covered on this site. For me, it consisted of climbing into the boot, using a socket to remove the bit that flaps down to cover the gap when the lower tailgate is lowered, using a long flat bladed screw driver inserted into the middle of top of the higher section of the carpet and levering, wedging the now loose at the top carpet back with some bits, using a screwdriver to cut a hole in the grey flexi rubber/plastic, reaching in to the hole and pushing the plastic cover on the actuator away and down until it jammed (just trying to hold it back meant it was eating my fingers), finding the loose end of the cable inside and pulling it out, then gentle tug later and the boot opened. several small lacerations to fingers, partially avoided by wrapping them in tape beforehand. Cut to wrist not avoided, note to wrap tape on wrists next time. Further note, if you think the cable is broken, save a lot of agro with small holes by cutting the thing and then pulling. Then buy a new one. Once the boot is open, remove four small screws holding top trim and then insert cardboard or similiar between tailgate and bumper to protect paintwork. Use screwdriver to prise clips from retracting side wires (the wires which hold the lower tailgate up), remove wires, use socket to remove the studs they fastened to. remove covering piece of plastic. next, undo two gold bolts holding in actuator. next, release electric plug from actuator at right hand side, then pull actuator out of the hole and admire your broken cable or stuck actuator.
---- job time approx 1 hour to dissassemble first time, reckon ten minutes would do it now I know. Isn't that always the way.
----- temporary fix note - duct tape to a piece of string draped over the back seat. To open boot until a new cable is purchased, open back door, take string around to boot, pull string and at the same time lift boot cover. D3 2.7 TDv6 HSE, 2005 in silver.
2009 nav disc (thanks Wiggs)
2007 software upgrade (thanks Wiggs and Geoff) with 3 flash indicators, follow me home reverse lights, fog with side lights & canadian driving lights
D4 bluetooth module (thanks Wiggs again)
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| 7th Aug 2011 10:01 pm |
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jsui
Member Since: 07 Sep 2010
Location: Helsinki area
Posts: 58
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Someone suggested here that if symptoms suggest one needs to change the lower tailgate latch assy in any case, then the easiest is to dive into the tailgate interior just so much that one can cut the (probably) faulty cable, and then pull it to get the tailgate open -- and then it is very easy.
That was an excellent advise! I just hope I had pulled the right end of the cable (the one that goes towards center of the tailgate, not the end that goes into the actuator which is rather on the side) from the very beginning -- I would have saved more than an hour of time 
But when got to the right end of the cable, then very easy and quick. Big thanks everyone who contributed to this thread with their advise and helpful pics!
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| 31st Aug 2011 3:11 pm |
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